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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First of all, I want to put a sound deadening mat down on the inside of my car before I lay the carpet. I know that there are 4 or 5 different brands of mats, I just wanted to know who of you guys has used any of those, and what you guys think about their performance. Also how many sq feet you needed to do
your car.

Second, is there any way I can test my tachometer and the rest of my gauges before I start the engine? I don't have the wires hooked up
yet because the body is still off. But once I get the body on I want to start my newly rebuilt engine. I just want to make sure the gauges work so I can monitor the rpms and temp and oil pressure and stuff. Thanks in advance guys!
 

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i used FATMAT



i believe it was like $120 after shipping on ebay for 2 rolls which lasted me the whole car, the front area twice and still had about half a roll left :) :cheers:


edit: front area where teh feet are, not the seats
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes I was looking at the fatmat. Have you gotten a chance to see how it works yet? Also, what did you do to prep te fiberglass before laying down the mat?
 

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I do have some good experience with sound deadening materials and with all the options, your purpose and budget come into major consideration.

First off, Fatmat, too thin. It's thinner than standard Dynamat, and while it works as a product, I think it's too thin to do a good job. That being said, if you're trying to keep the overall thickness down, it's a good choice, but for sound deadening, it was always the least effective of the ones I've used in real world applications and stereo installations.

Second, Dynamat. It's probably the most cost effective. It does work, isn't too thick, and costs less than the latter options. It's a good general purpose deadener. I wouldn't recommend it for high power car audio system with a lot of low frequencies.

Third, Dynamat Extreme. My personal favorite. It's the thickest which gives the best deadening properties, which work great for both stereo vibrations and exhaust vibration droning. It does cost the most of the listed types but it really does work great.

Fourth, Second Skin. This is harder to find...custom order stuff, and it's not something you'll see in a lot of project cars. I would put it in almost the same rank as Dynamat Extreme with the exception that it is cheaper. That being said, you have to order it, and the shipping costs generally erase the retail savings. Dynamat Extreme can usually be bought in local car audio shops and some retail chains. This makes it convenient, you don't have to wait, or pay shipping.

My personal recommendation - Dynamat Extreme. It's worth the money and this isn't a step you'll want to re-do.

Prep is easy. Clean the floor of all debris, wire brush old adhesive and carpet off and vacuum up. These deadeners have fantastic adhesive properties. As long as there isn't loose dust and debris it'll still VERY well. I have it upside down on the underside of the storage area ceiling. It's been there for almost 10 years and hasn't even began to peel off. My car is black, and that deck gets HOT, and it stays put.

Tip - Measure and cut and test fit before you peel off the backing. Go slow, use a combination of scissors and utility knives. I don't bother with the rollers for flattening...I just use my palms and fingers to work it down.
 

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Folks use Reflectix from Lowe's and similar home supply outlets. Precut barrier kits are available from the aftermarket providers.

Without a power source, the only way to test gauges would be individually with an ohm meter or similar.

:thumbsup:
 

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I do support the use of Reflectix but it is a heat barrier, a bit more effective that stock jute carpet backing.

The stick down Fatmat, Dynamat, and second Skin, are all sound and vibration deadeners.

The two work great hand in hand. Sound deadeners go down on the panel first, followed by heat barriers, and finally the carpet. The sound deadener mats convert sound energy into heat energy, and you want that under the heat barrier so it's dissipated by the floor panel.
 

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You may also want to check out RAAMMATT. I spoke to Rick a while back and he has recommendations for the C3 specifically and the prices are good too.

Edit - Hushmat seems like a good option too. Price looks right and seems to perform well in their tests....
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sweet! Thanks Guys for all the input! It has been really helpful, but I haven't decided what I'm gonna put in yet. I will have to do some more research but I'll let eeryone know what I go with and I'll post some pics once I get it installed! Thanks again!
 

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HushMat Ultra from Summit Racing worked well in my non-A/C car. Pretty thin, sticks like glue, and was relatively inexpensive.
 

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Too many choices out there:rolleyes:

I have spent hours on the net trying to make up my mind on what to buy. Still haven't made a decision.

Has anyone tried lizard skin? http://www.lizardskin.com/

I want to eliminate heat so I am leaning on spraying lizard skin insulation on the bottom and fire wall then using under coating on top of it on the bottom of the car. Then spraying the sound control and heat insulation on the inside. I know it is pricey but I want a well insulated car and will not have the chance to do this again.

Any one have a better solution or a better combination
:cheers:Mark
 
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