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Discussion Starter #1
this is a track in Canada. i picked the shots that show what the camber is doing in the turns. I dialed in a ton of negative camber in the rear when i got to the track. I bet i had 5 or 6 degrees. These turns seem to show me losing camber to the point of going positive on the front as well the rear.

There is just something about the C3 rear suspension that refuses to stay put. Everything is tight back there so it must be an inherent design flaw with the car.





 

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lower it some more, stiffer springs maybe stiffer bars, it still rolls quite a bit. It's however looking better than in those pics you posted some time ago. Indeed looks liike you are rolling to such an extent that the effective resulting camber angle is pos.
 

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How about listing your suspension mods/parts. Hard to tell what might be better improved without knowing what you have already done.
 

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5* is a whole sh*t load of camber. With 2* the tire is in an inch from straight up.

Is the picture with you laying on the ground before the 5*?

I believe he is running 550 fronts with an 1 1/4 sway bar and a 360 rear
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
How about listing your suspension mods/parts. Hard to tell what might be better improved without knowing what you have already done.
330# TRW fiber spring
RCSI adj shocks setting 9 front (stiffest setting) setting 5 rear
VBP alum locating pletes on rear crossmember
poly rear trailing arm bushings
no rear bar

550 springs front
Gouldstrand solid front a-arm bushings
1 1/8 front bar

17x9 Craiger blacksoft wheels with Sumitomo 275/40 160 treadwear

various weight removal
 

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Ya got me jealous, Turtle. I just pulled the engine out of the '69 this afternoon, and it will be a while before I complete the C4 suspension swap. Gonna be a while before I have tracktime fun again. Keep the pictures coming. I'm living vicariously through you.:laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
5* is a whole sh*t load of camber. With 2* the tire is in an inch from straight up.

Is the picture with you laying on the ground before the 5*?

I believe he is running 550 fronts with an 1 1/4 sway bar and a 360 rear
Chris, I didn't take any good picts to see the camber. Maybe this one. I didn't take any picts dead on straight.




it looked just like the front of this boy racer stang.
 

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Calabogie is GREAT. It's possibly the best road course in the east. I had a liitle off track excusion at the exit of "temptation" I saved it but I am sore as I had to induce a highside then ride out of it...

Now which way does the next turn go???

:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 

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I dont know exact numbers for corvettes, but I do know enough about suspension in general to know that you have too much body roll. Are you increasing camber only because your getting positive through corners? There are a lot of other variables in the equation.

You mention that you use the 9 setting on the front. What is your camber setting there? How even is your tire wear? Set your camber at 2-3* (or another neutral starting point per the experts) and try stiffening the rear one setting at a time until the rear end gets too loose for your liking. Back it off a setting and then mess with the camber until you are getting even tire wear across the tread.

Again, im not an expert. So consult the true experts first, but this may start the conversation in a helpful direction.

Good luck.
 

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330# TRW fiber spring
RCSI adj shocks setting 9 front (stiffest setting) setting 5 rear
VBP alum locating pletes on rear crossmember
poly rear trailing arm bushings
no rear bar

550 springs front
Gouldstrand solid front a-arm bushings
1 1/8 front bar

17x9 Craiger blacksoft wheels with Sumitomo 275/40 160 treadwear

various weight removal
I would consider trying a small rear sway bar.
 

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Regardless of the camber or anything else, did you have a ood time?? THAT"S the important part anyway I think.

:cheers:
 

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Jim, it's either the pics or your camber does not look like 5 deg at all. I did some testing w/ on another 82 here some time ago, set the camber to 2.75 in and you could really tell just from looking at it. If only you had taken a pic from the rear or the front. Also, looks like you have plenty gap above the tires left, drop it down some more and stick in some rough riding springs. Soft springs are nice in theory but they just don't work well and the stiffer ones will hide much of the shortcomings that the stock suspension has.
 

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330# TRW fiber spring
RCSI adj shocks setting 9 front (stiffest setting) setting 5 rear
VBP alum locating pletes on rear crossmember
poly rear trailing arm bushings
no rear bar

550 springs front
Gouldstrand solid front a-arm bushings
1 1/8 front bar

17x9 Craiger blacksoft wheels with Sumitomo 275/40 160 treadwear

various weight removal

Definately need a rear bar on that thing. IMO if your running a 1 1/8 front bar you should definately run a rear bar, will make a huge difference. The solid bushings and other mods you have on there make sence tho. What bushings in the camber rods on the rear?
 

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Looked like you had a good time:thumbsup:
 

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Definately need a rear bar on that thing. IMO if your running a 1 1/8 front bar you should definately run a rear bar, will make a huge difference. The solid bushings and other mods you have on there make sence tho. What bushings in the camber rods on the rear?
He said he just got it to understeer, if he adds a rear bar it'll almost certainly go into oversteer again.
 

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You should have seen it before, it was much worse (judging from the pics)

I'd lower it and use stiffer springs, roll bars take away from the independence of the suspension.
 

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You should have seen it before, it was much worse (judging from the pics)

I'd lower it and use stiffer springs, roll bars take away from the independence of the suspension.
So, the next step would be dual mt springs front and rear? Adjust the ride 1" lower front and rear?
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
i have a 420# VBP fiber spring i could try, but i need to shorten it first. All these m-fers are too long and have too much arch. I think venders should have to use their **** before they sell it.

but i don't want the rear to kick out at high speed.

It takes more skill to drive an oversteering car than one that pushes and i'm not that good.
 
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