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So after seeing these examples of paint costs how much are the material costs for a typical bc/cc paint job? I'm just wondering how much of that $5000 charge is for labor?:lookinup:
90% of body shop cost are from "labor" But they don't pay out alot. I made $615 per week salary before taxes being the lead painter for a body shop and I considered myself Lucky. It is almost impossible to get a job being the painter. Most body shops use the same painter for years. You have to work as a helper and hope the painter get fired, pissed or retires. And then you have a small chance of being the painter. I worked for 4 years as a helper making $10.50 per hour.
It took me 2 years of school to get certified and 4 years to become master certified. I was head of my class and had two hand written letters of recommendation from 2 out of 3 teachers (I suck at welding) One letter said I was the "most natural talented person he had ever seen with a spray gun in his 15+ years teaching".
One week after I graduated I went job hunting. I was cocky and thought I knew everything. I thought I was going to be the next painter for Boyd codington ! I went to 20+ body shops within 45 miles. Only one ever called me back. And they offered me a job cleaning up for $8/hr until a spot opened up for me. So I worked for about 6 months as a freaking janitor wile watching others with no formal training get to work on the cars.

But all of that work has it good points. I did grunt work for 10 years and now I have my own shop, and make my own money. I get to choose what cars I paint and when I want to work. I want to take a week off I just finish up what I got and take it. I need help I hire someone.
I got my dream, I get to do a job I love and truly enjoy. And I get to be with my son when ever he needs me. The only issue is my boss is a dick :laughing:

Omni is good paint, I just have little experience with it. I get more of a discount on DuPont products then PPG so I tend to use them more. But their nothing wrong with it.

TCPglobal paint is good, But far from the best. Me personally I would rather use the tcp global bc/cc over a dupont single stage. But many painters would not agree.
Painters like to choose a paint they are comfortable with. For me that is DuPont. I used DuPont for 8 years when I worked for a body shop so I use it now on my own.
How well a paint sprays will depend on the painter and his equipment. Ive seen some painters that can make single stage paint look perfect but struggle with bc/cc.


Automotive painting is a bitch industry. Their is a million ways to screw up but only one way to do it right. No one will ever see the good repairs you do, But everyone will see the bad.

Body shops charge so much because they can, and to protect their selfs. If you spend $1000 on paint materials and the customer dose not like it, thats another $1000 you have to fork out for new material not counting the labor and down time it takes to do it again.
When your like me and offer low cost quality alternatives their is no room for mistakes. If I screw up, I will loose not only the business buy my own money money as well. That leaves me very little room to explore other types of paint. When it comes down to making $1000 or spending $1000 I'm going to stick with a brand I know and trust.

Their is no need to remove the bumpers. That's the amazing part about soda blasting. It removes paint but will not harm chrome, glass or plastics. Go to the eastwood web site they have a cool video of a soda blaster in action.

When I was 16 I bought a 93 s10 blazer with money saved. I lowered it and installed a cowl hood and ground effects.
I took it to three body shops and the cheapest quote I got was $3000 and that was from "Uh-Oh...I got maaco"
The next day I went to a paint store and asked them about paint and the price. He told me it would be $500 for everything.
Before the end of the summer I was enrolled to go to school.
I knew I was way to much of a gear head to afford to pay others to do something I could learn to do.
 

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Any type of blasting on the fiberglass will remove the gelcoat. And since SMC fiberglass has mold release in it the gelcoat is a must. The paint could flake off if not.

Be very very careful using a razor blade. The yellow urethane is very soft and eazy to take a chunk out of. And if you do take a chunk out of it, No filler putty or body filler will stick. You will have to use a sandable urethane urethane epoxy. Eastwood sells some for $40 a tube.
 

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The soda blast may work for the bumpers, which I think is polyurethane. But from what all I've read, you don't want to soda blast the SMC. They say the soda blast can/will leave a residue that you can't get off. Which will cause the paint to fail.

Instead, they recommend something like walnut shells.

I may try a razor blade on the bumpers since the paint on the rear bumper I was able to flake off. So, it may not be that hard.
Have you reviewed my paint prep thread in the C4 sticky?
Speed-O....I'd also be interested in your professional take of the work I did.
 

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Have you reviewed my paint prep thread in the C4 sticky?
Speed-O....I'd also be interested in your professional take of the work I did.
Ive not seen it yet. But I look forward reading it.
I'm thinking of doing a tech article as well, when I paint my 94 here in a few weeks. It is the perfect example of extreme neglect, accidental damage & years of wear. It has at lest one of every type of repair possible (except for rust). But thats not an issue with us corvette guys. It was a Texas car for 11 years, NYC car for 6 years and SC car for just over a year. It has been in the blistering heat of Texas and battled the salt from northern snow storms.
It is faded, cracked, peeling, busted, chipped, pitted and all out of alignment.
I plan to do a full color change and a custom two color stripe. And even a repair on a spider cracked acrylic top.
I believe it would make for a good tech article. may be a little long tho.

Ive got a lot of reading to do myself before I even attempt to teach others. SMC fiberglass is still kinda a mystery to me. They don't teach much about it in school and its hard to find fact from fiction on line.

I also need to find someone to correct my grammar. I type like a 10 year old kid texting his GF.:laughing:
 

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C4 Paint thread

I'll help you write if you want...If you were closer, I'd photo document it for you as well. :thumbsup:

You've obviously got the knowledge and its been very interesting reading what you have posted here.
 

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C4 Paint thread

I'll help you write if you want...If you were closer, I'd photo document it for you as well. :thumbsup:

You've obviously got the knowledge and its been very interesting reading what you have posted here.
Thanks :thumbsup:
I found it. They have it hidden in the stickys, I about sent you a PM and then noticed it right in front of my cursor lol.

I will use you to help me with grammar if you don't mind.
I bought my wife the crazy big, and way over priced Nikon D60 something digital SLR camera for her birthday. She is a photographer. And she suckered me into buying it for her by saying " It's like your spray guns, It's not a camera its a TOOL I can make money with" A $600 camera turned into $1100 because it don't come with the crap needed to make it work. I had to buy 2 lens, charger, memory cards, A large case to fit it all in etc. The bestbuy lady stuck it to me good.
That was over a year ago and that camera has left the house maybe 5 times, and never made one single dollar.
She can use it to take some good high quality pictures for me.

Any way sorry for the rant. I still see a mangaflow exhaust or a nice iwata spray gun when I look at that camera. :laughing:

You did a great job on your C4, It looks great! and if I read correctly that was in 05? so by now you should know how good you did. Poor paint jobs will fail within the first two years. Most of the time is 12 months. I only see two very small things I would have a concern about. #1 wet sanding the OEM finish before primer. The 400 was more then enough to prep for the primer, The 600g was getting into the danger zone. One of the reasons you sand OEM finishes before painting it to give the primer something to bite to. Wet sanding with 600 is almost too smooth for primer to get a good bite. I very rarely hand sand the OEM paint before primer. I use something called an interface pad by 3M. Its a 1/2" thick foam hook & loop pad that attaches to a orbital sander to sand curves. They are fantastic for sanding before and after primer. But they are kinda expensive at $15 each and they wear out fast. but in my case time is money so they pay for them self. Also unless you are real good with an orbital sander don't use them. Because of the way the contour interface pads work it is easy to get a panel wavy real fast without knowing it.

The 2nd thing is the plastic your used to cover the engine. When you use plastic the overspray can dry on it and when you go to make a 2nd pass with the spray gun the air pressure will hit the plastic causing the overspray to peel off and go everywhere in little tiny paint pieces. I know this one from a bad experience. Since then I never use plastic on the actual car anymore. I still use it to cover interiors and tools in the shop. Now I use making paper on the cars all the time. I used plastic sheeting 10-15 times with no issues, but just that one time it screwed up cost me a lot of money and time.

Other then them two very small things you did quite well and I would hire you as a helper. You can't even imagine how bad some people are. About 25% of the people I went to school with and prob 50% of the kids I hire to help on large jobs . should never touch a spray gun again, and some should never touch a car again. lol.


I will starting on my 94 in a few weeks. Ive got 4 cars to do and a motorcycle trailer to paint and I will be free for a week or two. I will contact you then and we will make one hell of a how to article together if you want to :thumbsup:
 

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Yea...it was painted quite some time ago...under the supervision on a guy that paints here in the area....i prepped, he shot. I really wanted something inexpensive, but nice...pro jobs were just out of the question, so I used this a as learning experience.

I've been able to use my D80 to make some money, consistency has been the issue....some jobs here and there...anyway...let me know when you wanna do some writing and I'll be happy to help out!
 

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The funny thing on that red Firebird I had painted in 2002 with single stage. And it faded. A few years after it was painted, I bumped the front nose into something in a couple of places. I got some Duplicolor bright red, didn't really prep the bumper at all, and just sprayed the areas of the bumper where the paint chipped off. All this time later, that Duplicolor is still bright red. Everything else has faded.

Kinda sad $300 a gallon paint fades to pink, where as a $5 can of Duplicolor is still holding its color even with no prep.
Sounds to me like you where the victim of a shady painter. $300 for single stage paint is a lot. Even at retail DuPont nason is only $150 per gallon and Omni is also under $300.

My guess you got charged $300 for $50 no name fleet paint. A quality automotive grade single stage paint won't fade. Basically you got a Maaco $249.99 ambassador paint job.
 

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It was done at the local tech school for free. All I paid for was paint. So I guess I can't complain too much. I don't remember much about it as it was 2002. It looked good for a little while other than the paint flaking off in a few places and the over spray.

I remember them driving it around in primer. So, I know that wasn't good.
Their is honestly a 100 things that could have went wrong.
Mixed with too little or too much activator.
mixed too thin.
Added too much fish-eye eliminator. (should have not used any)

Do you know if they wet sanded it and/or polished it?
If it is acrylic enamel paint and they wet sanded it that would cause it to fade fast.
Acrylic enamel is a plastic based paint. The gloss finish it has is from a hard outer shell. Once that shell has been broken (like with sandpaper or grit in a compound) it never comes back.
you can polish the paint to get some shine back, but over time it will dull (fast) and it will need polished again.

Acrylic enamel paint and clear coat can NOT be polished with any kind of compound that has a grit nor can it be sanded.
Acrylic enamel is bottom line crap. I don't even know why it is made. It is only about $20 max cheaper then a 2k urethane and so much worse. I wish they would quit making it.

Where are you located at? I may can help you out.
Ive got two gallons of high quality PPG deltron basecoat that I have left over. Both gallons are full and unmixed. Deltron mixes 1:1 and makes 2 full sprayable gallons of paint. 1 gallon (unmixed)is more then enough to paint a C4 inside and out.
Since they are custom mixed I can't return them, and they are mixed in new, non labeled cans. So I cant even sell them. (no one would believe me that they are deltron.)
I will give you a gallon for the labor cost to paint your car. All I have is the actual color only. You would still need to buy basecoat activator, DT reducer and clearcoat with activator. But this will save you a ton of money. I paid $340 for each gallon, Retail price is $420. But I have none of my own money in them and have already been paid for the jobs that they are left over from.
I don't plan to use them for my own cars so they will either set and go bad after a year, or I will give them to someone for a discounted paint job.


The colors are:

2007 Jeep "Steel blue metallic" It is nothing like the 1991 corvette steel blue metallic. It is a dark gray-ish blue metallic. Google "Jeep steel blue metallic" to see the color.

AND

"Brilliant bright blue pearl". It is a non OEM color. It was picked out from another brand's custom color chip book. It is a med-dark metallic blue with a blue pearl. It is a very stunning color but will be hard to match because I don't have a paint code or a mixing formula for this color.

Here is a picture of the mustang I painted with The blue pearl.




Let me know if you would be interested or not. Depend on the amount of labor and type of paint you orignaly have I can paint your vette with one of the two colors for somewhere in the $600-$1000 range.
 

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Naa I thought about it but with the rock slide in the nc/tn I40 "gorge" I would have to take I40 to asheville and take I26 north into kingsport. That or take 85 south into greenville SC. Either way a 5 hour drive is now 9 hours until they remove the rock slide from I40.

I love pigeon forge. Ive just about bought a house in Sevierville twice now and keep letting woman talk me out of it.
Until 6 months ago I lived in Asheville NC for my whole life.
It's right on the TN/NC line. I use to go to pigeon forge at lest 10 times a year.
I even had a truck entered into the southeastern mini trucken nats when I was young. I even won 1st place for "best solid color paint" back in 1999.

Ive never been to the vette expo, But I never miss the rod run.


However I will be in chattanooga TN for 3 nights starting April 23rd. I'm thinking real seriously about taking my son and leaving from Chattanooga to go to Bowling green to the corvette museum since I will be so close. I just got to find out a way to legaly haul a 6 month old in a corvette :lookinup: :thud:
I don't want to go alone and I would love to take him. But I also dont want to go to the birthplace of my corvette without my corvette..
 
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