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Mr. Casino
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Discussion Starter #1

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DC Crew
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elints said:
Since my 1979 is no longer driveable I am looking into acquiring a C4.

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2819

Are there things I should be looking out for to avoid future problems. I am not very famaliar with this series.

TIA

Henry
We'd be happy to help you out.

To start, in the current issue of Corvette Fever, there is an excellent breakdown of all the C4 changes from year to year. It's good reading. I learned quite a bit.

As far as what problems to look out for, it depends on the year... motor ... and options.

Much like all cars, if you start out with a well taken care of car with decent miles, that hasn't been abused (like mine) then you are off to a good start.

If you are going for more of a "project car" or high-mile car, there are certainly some things to look out for.

As you know, there are a lot of choices for C4's ... L98, LT1, LT4, LT5, Callaway TT ... etc. Plus, 3 distinctive body styles (old style front/rear clip + new style, and ZR1 wide-body style).

Do you know approx what you are looking for?

Don't forget to read this:
http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=80

And check here for good C4 tech info:
http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=50
 

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DC Crew
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3,723 Posts
Henry-

Having been an owner of three C4's (check my sig), one of the most important items to look at if you are interested in a 1984-1989 is the condition of the instrument panel. These years had the fully digital gauge clusters which will invariably have areas dim and then fail completely. Repairs of this cluster, which incidently is one piece, can be VERY expensive depending on the problem. Mail order companies such as Mid America have repair programs in place where you can send your cluster to be repaired.

Another issue I recall on both the '86 and the '89 I owned was that the amps on the Bose speakers had a tendency to fry. I don't know if this is common or simply just bad luck, but it DID suck.

I own a '94 now and I love it!


By the way, I remember reading abour your accident when you posted it. Are you and your son okay?
 

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Black 08, A&A TI supercharger. Kooks headers. CCW wheels. Much more
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my opinion would be:laughing: get no less then an LT-1 car,and if its an auto,try not to get the 2:59 rear end.i had an 89'-L98,great car,but the LT1 has more power to start with.and better computers and electronics.
if you can-get a callaway:cool: that will no doubt be my next car.
happy hunting:cheers:
 

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Mr. Casino
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Discussion Starter #5
bkuper said:
Henry-

Having been an owner of three C4's (check my sig), one of the most important items to look at if you are interested in a 1984-1989 is the condition of the instrument panel. These years had the fully digital gauge clusters which will invariably have areas dim and then fail completely. Repairs of this cluster, which incidently is one piece, can be VERY expensive depending on the problem. Mail order companies such as Mid America have repair programs in place where you can send your cluster to be repaired.

Another issue I recall on both the '86 and the '89 I owned was that the amps on the Bose speakers had a tendency to fry. I don't know if this is common or simply just bad luck, but it DID suck.

I own a '94 now and I love it!


By the way, I remember reading abour your accident when you posted it. Are you and your son okay?
My son's bruises went away quickly however I am still getting the kinks worked out of my neck muscles(almost ok now). The only problem I have now is occasional crying when I sit on the back porch and look at the poor thing sitting on blocks.:)

Thanks for asking.
 

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Mr. Casino
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Discussion Starter #6
TodayI happened upon a 1996 white coupe with 70k miles, auto that appears to have no body injurys and a good paint job. The previous owner seemed to have taken care of the exterior. The drivers seat shows signs of wear but has no tears and the carpet is somewhat stained (light brown interior). Slamming the door indicated that it is still sealed well.

Unfortunately I wasn't able to start it because it was parked very tightly with other cars. I plan to take it for a spin Monday so I am wondering if there are any items I should be looking out for on this model.

TIA

PS I need another vette because the 79 is going to a parts house soon and I need something else to pet. :D

Henry
 

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DC Crew
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53,221 Posts
elints said:
TodayI happened upon a 1996 white coupe with 70k miles, auto that appears to have no body injurys and a good paint job. The previous owner seemed to have taken care of the exterior. The drivers seat shows signs of wear but has no tears and the carpet is somewhat stained (light brown interior). Slamming the door indicated that it is still sealed well.

Unfortunately I wasn't able to start it because it was parked very tightly with other cars. I plan to take it for a spin Monday so I am wondering if there are any items I should be looking out for on this model.

TIA

PS I need another vette because the 79 is going to a parts house soon and I need something else to pet. :D

Henry
I'll start with this....

- Tires are expensive.

- Weatherstripping is expensive, and a serious pain-in-the-ass to install.

- Replacement carpet is affordable, butt a serious project to install.

- Replacing the plugs, or replacing the Opti is an huge project.

- Replacing interior console pieces (the rubberish coating can peel away) are expensive.


Basically, you want to check out everything that is either expensive to replace, or a pain in the ass to do.

Check the headlight motors, heat/AC, power mirrors, exterior lighting, the clear coat on the sawblade wheels for peeling, the targa top seal, possible targa squeeks, the fit between the side windows and the targa top (you might want to spray the windows with a hose to see if you get water inside. Check the function of ALL of the power seat controls (each one - both seats). Check for differences and compare the "orange peel" on the paint for clues of previous body work.

Basically, if you don't want to replace it, check it! :laughing:

I guarantee the shocks should have been replaced by now. listen for clunks or strange suspension sounds going over bumps. If the car seems to float up and down on the road or it has a lot of body roll, you need shocks.

Also, take some corners at a good speed and listen for front-end sounds (wheel bearings... etc).

And, pull off a front wheel and inspect the rotors and pads. The original rears should be just fine with 70k miles.

Also, check for un-even tire wear, or strange rust or corrosion on engine components or seat tracks.... possible flood car.

Lastly, if this car is cherry, run a Carfax on it. Also, be aware that this is a buyers market. There are thousands upon thousands of C4's for sale right now. A lot of them are DESPERATE sellers, it might be wise to shop around and compare.

Ok, I'm done rambling, I'm sure someone else will jump in.:thumbsup:
 

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If you plan to do any mods, go with a '94 or newer. The ECM's can be flash programmed versus burning new chips and swapping them out. That is my only regret of buying a '93.
 

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I think what it boils down to is go for the newest one that fits your budget. An Lt-4 car would be nice, but there are also a lot of nice Lt-1s around also. Take your time and ask a lot of questions, lot of good help on here. :)
 
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