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I paid $189 which included shipping from Gene Culley at GMParts.
He's always been fair on price and reliable. Like I said, I had a talk with him today and he said this part was the new version of the actuator and the only one available from GM now
 

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I paid $189 which included shipping from Gene Culley at GMParts.
He's always been fair on price and reliable. Like I said, I had a talk with him today and he said this part was the new version of the actuator and the only one available from GM now


Okay, I'm going to leave that price alone...

Anywho, you didn't answer my question about turning the gears.
 

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It doesn't seem to want to move too easily and I don't want to force it at $189 a pop. I'm going to have to have another conversation with Gene Culley about that.
 

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Why did you buy a new one if you hadn't verified that the old one is bad? Can you turn the old one? If you look at my picture, you can see that the only thing that you are turning are gears. If the voltage being sent to the unit can turn the gears, surely you can.
 

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Well, I thought we have had this conversation. As for turning the gears, I appreciate that you're a Marine and I'm just a measly firefighter, but I can't turn it by hand, and I learned a long time ago not to force electronic parts.
 

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Okay, can you see the physical limit points on the actuator where it is only allowed to turn so far in either direction, just like the one I posted a picture of earlier in this thread? From the picture you posted, I don't see any. What you could do is go to your local dealer and look at one they have. Won't cost a dime. You could also verify that part number.

And by the way, you guys won this survey I saw among women, 18 to 45. :D

 

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Finally got B0441

Glad that I could assist. :)
JM, Like OP, I have read all posts known to man about this issue. bringing up old post, as I am one of the poor souls getting B0441, Outof range, drivers side. Tonight I REmoved and opened actuator(2001 Z06, manufactured in November of 2000, so may be old style) and all looks good. Good grease, no burned spots on circuit board. When replacing Fuse 27, I can hear left side blend door go through limits, but not drivers side. Drivers side Warm air condition occurs with and without AC on, so I am pretty sure it isn't R134 issue. heat on drivers side is same, AC on or off. Ideas?
I will try to hook power supply to it tomorrow to see if it cycles. Can't turn gears manually against worm drive(per your suggestion above)
 

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... Tonight I REmoved and opened actuator(2001 Z06, manufactured in November of 2000, so may be old style) and all looks good.
Stop right there. I posted a BIG ol' picture of the newer style actuator and gave a detailed description of the mechanical and physical differences of the older and newer actuator in THIS thread. So if you removed the driver's side actuator from your car, you should be able to CLEARLY identify which actuator you have. So my first question to you is, "Which actuator do you have?"


... When replacing Fuse 27, I can hear left side blend door go through limits, but not drivers side. Drivers side Warm air condition occurs with and without AC on, so I am pretty sure it isn't R134 issue.
No you are NOT sure it is not a R-134a issue because you haven't had the system evacuated in order to see exactly how much R-134a is in your system. You are guessing, which is what guys do when they want to spend a LOT of money trying to figure out what is wrong with their AC instead of performing a proper trouble-shooting procedure. I stress this big time in all the AC threads I post in. You have slightly gotten the cart before the horse by pulling the actuator. The first thing that you should have done is the evacuation procedure in order to see how much R-134 you have (which should be exactly 0.68 kg [1.50 lb] for your year car). By eliminating the R-134a as a possible issue, you can then concentrate on the other "most likely" issues that our AC systems experience.

Since you have removed the actuator, you can test it by turning the shaft to see if the thing will rotate. If you can't turn it by hand, then you have an issue. It should freely turn with little effort. Another thing that you can do once you get to the point where the actuator can be removed from the car, is to attempt to turn it with the motor running and the AC turned on. Do this in both directions until you hear the vent door close and open. If you close the door and open the door, the temperature of the air coming out that side of the car should change. If the temperature doesn't change regardless of the door being opened or closed, then you most likely have an R-134a issue. But again, knowing your R-134a level is the FIRST step in trouble-shooting an AC issue.

One other thing to note. You could have an R-134a AND an actuator issue. So if you can't manually turn the one you have, you may as well start looking for a replacement. If you can't turn it by hand then don't waste any time hooking electricity up to it. It's toast.
 

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thanks for the quick response. I am still puzzled how R134 can affect temps with AC off. Can you explain that? I can't see how R134 weight can cause hot air with AC off, running outside air. The hot air doesnt change with AC on or off, expecially off which is where I normally run(cool Northwest). That is the red herring that keeps me focused on the actuator as the root cause of the problem.
BTW, I will have the R134 checked! Thanks you for your patience with an enthusiastic amateur!
 

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No patience required. I enjoy sharing information, although some of the thinner skinned guys always think that I am chewing their asses. I guess it is the Marine in me. ;)

The way our AC systems work has a built in fail safe. The AC compressor itself is lubricated by the R-134a. If the R-134a gets too low, the system will default to heat and turn off the compressor. The way the engineer's see it, you can drive a car in the summer time with no air but you CAN'T drive the car in the winter time with no heat (because the windows will need to be defogged). So low refrigerant always causes the car to default to heat. Another thing, if your outside temperature sensor goes bad, it will cause the system to default to heat also because again, you can drive without AC but not without heat in the winter.
 

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No patience required. I enjoy sharing information, although some of the thinner skinned guys always think that I am chewing their asses. I guess it is the Marine in me. ;) I totally get you, brother. 1960's Submariner, 5 yrs 7 mos 27 days, but who's counting?

"The way the engineer's see it, you can drive a car in the summer time with no air but you CAN'T drive the car in the winter time with no heat (because the windows will need to be defogged). So low refrigerant always causes the car to default to heat."

I get that for failsafe to bilateral heat, AC on or off. But, not for driver's hot pax cool /cold regardless if AC on or off. So, that's why I'm stuck on actuator as root cause.
BTW, when I took it out, actuator was at midpoint, not at stop or "out of range" visually. It is new model with stops. watched it initialize, it went hard to to both stops, and rested at a stop. I then adjusted heat and watched rotator move. it takes a few secs then responds to heat or cool command, i.e., moves a little bit and stops. still showing b0441. I opened and shut blend door w wrench. it seemed stuck. Ima remount act'r and see if it will operate door now.
Cheers.
 
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