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Remove your dash pad. It is not that hard or difficult. It really isn't. Then swap your 2 actuators. If the problems switches sides, Then replace your bad actuator. If the problem stays then there might be a problem with your control head or wiring between control head and actuator.
 

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Remove your dash pad. It is not that hard or difficult. It really isn't. Then swap your 2 actuators. If the problems switches sides, Then replace your bad actuator. If the problem stays then there might be a problem with your control head or wiring between control head and actuator.
Copy that. I have a track day this w/e so I'll just button it up with cold air on me, and warm air blowing on any student who wants to ride along in the Z06!
 

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There is another way. When the control head first powers up after the battery being disconnected it does a full sweep of both actuators. If you unplug the bad actuator as it sweeps by full cold, it will stay there and you will just have to plug actuator back in for heat.
 

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4 armed man!

There is another way. When the control head first powers up after the battery being disconnected it does a full sweep of both actuators. If you unplug the bad actuator as it sweeps by full cold, it will stay there and you will just have to plug actuator back in for heat.
Thsi sounds like a ob for the famous 4-armed man!! Seriously, I'll need to do more trouble shooting with the dashpad off, after next track day. Thank you for your time and suggestions. I love these Corvette boards, full o' smart guys.
 

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You still haven't had your R-134a checked? A thing that requires no tools on your behalf, just some sitting and waiting?
 

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AJ, why are we always the onliest, oldest guys up on the forum at 2:30. I gotta get up at 7. Damn, I just don't think these old non-Jarhead puppys can hang. Sux to be their tired ole' asses.:D
 

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I'm on here after pulling up in the driveway (did the all you can eat crab legs at Joe's Crab Shack tonight), turned the car off and fell straight asleep in the car! Now I need to go to bed also so that I can get my old ass up early too. I feel like a damn kid. I have to force myself to go to bed!
 

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I'm on here after pulling up in the driveway (did the all you can eat crab legs at Joe's Crab Shack tonight), turned the car off and fell straight asleep in the car! Now I need to go to bed also so that I can get my old ass up early too. I feel like a damn kid. I have to force myself to go to bed!
Pussy's!:smack

Some of us get the most work done between 1 am and 9 am!
 

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Hey, I only slept for 3 hours and I had to fit getting laid in there last night! :D
 

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I shoulda bet!

You still haven't had your R-134a checked? A thing that requires no tools on your behalf, just some sitting and waiting?
Just had R134a recovered. 1.6lbs in system, not "half" . still have unequal temps. Drivers side now locked at cool, since I reinstlled native actuator with some range set prior to installation. which is OK, since I have two track days coming up, and will need to cool off after sessions.
Next will install new actuator, despite "healthy" appearance of old one. Fedex pulled up with new actuator as I was buttoning up dash, so i could have car ready to take to AC test.
Back to square 1.5.
BTW "new" actuator has no stops! It has no screws to open it, it has snap clips like elec connectors.
Saga continues
 

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Sounds like you bought the wrong part or dealt with a company that is selling OLD stock. From 2001 on, technicians have been told to replace any bad actuators with ones from the 2001 model (or newer style as I have said before), as outlined in the attached TSB.

Second, I find it hard to believe that after 15 years, your system hasn't leak 1 drop of R-134a, especially given that leakage is the number one reason the C5 AC system go haywire. The seals are NOT going to last that long with the engine temperature heating them up and cooling down thousands of times over a 15 year period. That would be one hell of a seal. Hell, the dryers on these cars are said to need replacing after 8 or so years. Actuators are second and outside temperature sensor is the third. The control head go bad but not that often and it usually happens when someone with no soldering skills get inside them.

Last of all if your system is full of R-134a, you should be able with the actuator removed, MANUALLY turn the shaft that controls the door, which changes the temperature from hot to cool and vice versa. This is how I can quickly tell if the driver's side actuator is working or not once I remove it from the car. But I guess we'll have to see what happens.
 

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Sounds like you bought the wrong part or dealt with a company that is selling OLD stock. From 2001 on, technicians have been told to replace any bad actuators with ones from the 2001 model (or newer style as I have said before), as outlined in the attached TSB.

Coul;d be my fault, not checking with vendor if it is new model or not. I'll go back and check

"Second, I find it hard to believe that after 15 years, your system hasn't leak 1 drop of R-134a, especially given that leakage is the number one reason the C5 AC system go haywire. "

Well, son, you can b'lee dat. I watched the AC machine do the recovery and count up to 1.60.

"The seals are NOT going to last that long with the engine temperature heating them up and cooling down thousands of times over a 15 year period. That would be one hell of a seal. Hell, the dryers on these cars are said to need replacing after 8 or so years."
I have only 50Kmiles, 10 of which are track miles w AC off! Looking for every last bit o' power, ya kno.


Actuators are second and outside temperature sensor is the third. The control head go bad but not that often and it usually happens when someone with no soldering skills get inside them.
Well, as I said, when I observed the actuator outside of its mount and indexed w fuse 27, I saw full stop movement. When I adjusted temp, I saw some movement.

"Last of all if your system is full of R-134a, you should be able with the actuator removed, MANUALLY turn the shaft that controls the door, which changes the temperature from hot to cool and vice versa. This is how I can quickly tell if the driver's side actuator is working or not once I remove it from the car."
Roger that. I used my submarine reactor operator's tweaker wrench, complete w/original shotline(look it up) lanyard, to move shaft of heater door. moved freely.


"But I guess we'll have to see what happens.
"

AC mechanic said, "do some more tinkering, could be control head, could just be actuator doesnt' want to respond. I've replaced dozens of them, mostly GM's."

After two next track days, I'll rip it open again,, and try the new actuator.
 

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Are you SURE you have the correct actuator? You definitely don't want to put an actuator in there with no stops. That will just open you up to calibration issues, and those were quite prevalent.
 

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AC actuator thread, but off topic

Still working on Actuator issue, but when opening this site, I have been getting spam virus warnings, "call this number, virus n your hard drive" I am using incognito function to open and write in forum. anybody else seeing this issue?
 

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Still working on Actuator issue, but when opening this site, I have been getting spam virus warnings, "call this number, virus n your hard drive" I am using incognito function to open and write in forum. anybody else seeing this issue?
Nope. You have an adware and possible malware infection on your computer. I see this everyday because I run an IT company. If you want it fixed, let me know an I will connect remotely and fix it for you at a small cost.
 

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Check the R 134

I had my compressor replaced in 2010 ($1400)(just retired from US Navy). OK, that was expensive, since I only paid $8500 for my 97 C5, but I deserved cold air, and everything worked until about two weeks ago. Cold air from passenger's side, hot air on my side. I did all the research, read all the threads, and learned much. So, I took it to the guy who replaced the compressor in 2010 for free diagnostics. He told me it wasn't the R134 charge, because "It's blowing cold air on the passengers side"! He said he would have to do a complete diagnostics, computer, acctuator doors, compressor, everything for $299! I told him look; Just evacuate and check for the correct 1.6 lb of R134 that it calls for, I don't want all that other stuff, just charge it! Sure enough, he had to add about 1/2 a pound to bring it up to specs. That was it. It is like the proverbial "meat locker" in there now. As JunkMan says in post #36 of this post, if you are not sure that the charge is correct, then you will be spinning your wheels (plus time and $s). Even though it seemed to blow cold (more like cool) air on the passenger's side, that system will not work like it should no matter what, if the charge is not right. Those who suffer from hot air driver's side, cool air passenger's side, read, heed and believe! For $152, I'm running it cool, cold, and collected! Thanks to everyone who contributes, I'm a believer.:cool: (It's colder in there now, than the berthing compartment on USS Peleliu (LHA-5)!
 

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.... As JunkMan says in post #36 of this post, if you are not sure that the charge is correct, then you will be spinning your wheels (plus time and $s). Even though it seemed to blow cold (more like cool) air on the passenger's side, that system will not work like it should no matter what, if the charge is not right.
And why people still waste time AND money throwing parts at the problem just totally blows me away. If they completely understood HOW the system worked, they could save themselves a TON of time, money and armpit deodorant. What you did was exactly what I tell everyone is STEP 1. GOOD JOB. :thumbsup:

Now keep this in mind. You have a leak somewhere. The AC system is sealed and you should NEVER have to add R-134 to the system unless it leaked out. Hopefully, the mechanic added some green dye when he filled it up so that you can find the leak. If you do not locate the leak, you will have to keep adding R-134a. The dealer only charges $120 to do what you had done and I've found mom and pop shops that will do it for $50 so shop around. Some of these mom and pop shops have the same GM ACR2000 unit that the dealerships have. So keep that in mind, you need to find that leak.

(It's colder in there now, than the berthing compartment on USS Peleliu (LHA-5)!
Holy ****! You were on the Peleliu??? I sailed with the Peleliu on my westpac in 1985!!! That bucket of bolts is still in commission?! :laughing:

It was the Peleliu, the USS Ogden (LPD-5... the girls in the Philippians called it the "Little 5" to distinguish it from "The Big 5" or Peleliu), and the USS Cayuga LST-1186 (did you know that the Cayuga was in the movie Airport 77?). But damn dude, we have traveled on some of the same rust! Small world! :laughing: :thumbsup:
 

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Yes Junk, I was on the Peleliu, but much later than you were (2010). It was decommisioned in 2015, said to be going to mothball fleet in Peal Harbor. I remember seeing a flyer about the ship that said the airconditioning capacity on LHA-5 would be enough to "Cool the Empire State Building". I used to think, "Why won't it cool the Peleliu then?". It was hot as hell in the bearthing, I used to lay there in my rack hating life. Anyway, I know there is a leak in my air-con on the C5. But it's a small one, (seals in compressor, dye shows), but hopefully it will last another 6 years to leak out again. I'm just saying, I can replace the whole thing again, or get what use I can from it during this summer (I know you are a purist, don't think badly of me). The real point is the catch here, make sure the charge is correct, or it won't work. Even though the guy who worked on it is a reputable machanic, he just didn't know the details of the system. So, thanks for your advice about checking the charge level first. Any other starting point is futile.:bang
 

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At least you realize that there is a problem. That's good. :thumbsup:
 
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