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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
or, "How a Balding Middle-aged White Male with Failing Night Vision Became Able to See on Midnight County Roads."

PARTS:
1) Wagner #4049 bulb (w/o filament shield) $17
OR
1) Wagner #4537 bulb (w/ front filament shield) $13
1) Bosch relay $7
1) 15 amp circuit braker $6
2') red 12g wire
3') black 12g wire
10') green 12g wire
10') green 14g wire
10') black 14g wire
10') 3/8" loom
misc. connectors & fasteners as needed

MECHANICAL:
I mounted my circuit breaker and relay on the driver side fender well adjacent to the alternator. The circuit breaker has two mounting tabs, the relay one, so I mounted the relay off one of the c-brkr tabs with two #10 machine screws with fender and flat washers and nylock nuts.
I pre-fabbed the wire connections for c-brkr and relay first, then installed the 14g green and black and 12g green wires into the loom. Run the loom following the vacuum lines and OEM wiring harness along the fender well into the nose, up and across the top of the headlite vacuum actuators. My light is on the passenger side, so I tucked the loom through on the top driver side of the passenger side vacuum actuator into the headlite area behind the high beam. Don't forget to secure the new loom when you're all done, but not just yet.
The 4049 bulb locating lugs match the OEM headlite bucket indents, the 4537 lug does not. I made a new indent opposite the side adjuster screw using a cut-off wheel and pliers. Easy. Set it with the filament horizontal.
The 4049 bulb has both spade and screw terminals, the 4537 screws only. Use the screw terminals with 5" pigtails made from the 12g black and green wires. You'll probably have to do some carefull bending and maybe some snipping of the terminals to get clearance to the bucket. The 4049 is a little shallower than the 4537, so no backing plate clearancing should be needed, but for the deeper 4537 I took my die grinder to the backing plate and quickly had adequate clearance for the terminal connections. Figure in movement of bulb for aiming purposes.
Check carefully both old and new wiring in the headlite assembly for binding and clearance to moving parts and springs. Without the OEM headlite connector plug in place, there is now nothing to hold the wires in place either. I twisted mine up into a loop together and loosely zip-tied them near the end of the protruding loom. They must be free to move with the assembly without problem or else all the smoke will escape from them and your lights won't work anymore.
Insulate the center relay terminal #87A ("normally closed") with shrink tube. This terminal is hot when the relay is NOT triggered.
I insulated the terminal posts of the circuit breaker using two little pieces of vacuum hose with a dot of silicone sealer in the ends.

WIRING:
The red 12g comes from the power post of the horn relay to the "bat" terminal of the circuit breaker, and from the "aux" terminal to the relay terminal #30.
The green 12g comes from relay terminal #87 ("normally open") thru the loom to one of the pigtails on the bulb. The other pigtail plugs into the black 12g and goes to a secure ground. I used the horn grounding screw located directly behind the OEM harness in the center of the hood opening "V" just below the body (This screw also holds an OEM metal harness clip). You can probably tuck this ground wire into your new loom.
These wires provide a dedicated, overcurrent protected circuit for the higher electric load of the new bulb.
The green 14g comes from relay terminal #86, and the black 14g from relay terminal #85, through the loom where they plug into the corresponding sides of the OEM headlamp connector plug with a pair of spade connectors. Be sure to insulate the exposed part of the connectors.
These wires use the OEM high-beam circuit to trigger the relay.

NOTES:
#4049: 150 watt; 12.5 amp; 300,000 candlepower; 15* X 7* beam; 15 hr life
#4537: 100 watt; 8.3 amp; 200,000 candlepower; 11* X 6* beam; 25 hr life

The 4537 bulb may have a shield on the side or the front of the filament (side shield MIGHT be #4537S--I've got one of each, but both boxes say only 4537). The side shield bulb threw a donut shaped beam, a dark center with a ring of light around it. No good for me. The front shielded bulb throws a nice full rectangular beam. Check the bulb before you take it home. The 4049 bulb is unshielded, throws a nice rectangular beam.
The 4049 is definately brighter than the 4537, almost too bright. It shines WAAAAAAY down the road, but street signs reflect back almost blindingly bright. Going up a narrow canyon, it's brightness was actually distracting, and the long narrow beam does not help see around curves at all. When you click back to low beam, it's suddenly really really dark out there.
The 4537 is not as bright but still shines a long, long way. It is more than adequate for high speed driving, yet a little "friendlier" to use. I replaced my 4049 with a 4537 and prefer it, although it, too, is for straight roads and does little good in the twisties.
You probably won't find either of these at the local parts store, although a quality NAPA-type store may be able to order them. You may find them at a local airport but they'll be expensive. I got mine off the shelf from a NAPA "jobber" store which supplies the local airport.

These websites have good related info:

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/home.html

http://www.madelectrical.com/

DISCLAIMERS:
*This is what I did on my '73 L-48 coupe. Your car may differ.
*This will increase your electrical load by about 30% or 50% when lights are on. Keep an eye on your electical and charging system. Old and/or marginal systems may develop previously unrevealed problems.
*"FOR OFFROAD USE ONLY" These lights are BRIGHT and ILLEGAL as hell. Believe me, one is enough.

The hour rating seems very low, however if you add up the time you actually have brights on, it's probably not as much as you think. I ran 3 1/2" aircraft lights on my Harleys for years and never burned one out.

If you run one of these without the relay, the 20 amp circuit breaker built into the headlight switch will open after a few seconds and you will lose your lights till you switch back to low beam.

Have fun,
John
 

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Nice writeup JP
 

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:rolling: :rolling: :rolling:

With MY luck that oncoming car would be a cop.....:crazy: :spanked:
After you hit him with the brights, he wouldn't be able to see for a good minute or so. Plenty of time to leave the area:laughing:
 

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Yea, but they are FAA approved and that's better.
:agree: :rolling: Nice one!

One of the few good things about this place is that they have street lights EVERYWHERE so you can (and the locals DO) drive around without your headlights on without any problems :crazy:
 

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:agree: :rolling: Nice one!

One of the few good things about this place is that they have street lights EVERYWHERE so you can (and the locals DO) drive around without your headlights on without any problems :crazy:
They do that to avoid bombings. I only turn mine on when landing.:rolling:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
:agree: :agree: I will definitely make a hard copy of this as well as store it in my vet tec documents.
A very good post:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Wow, I'm honored, Norval. That's about the best compliment a man could recieve. Thank you,

John
 

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A friend just arrived back from a trip to Colorado and said he saw a UFO driving along on a dark road then wham this really blinding light appeared out of no where. :WTF

Good news is he will be out of the hospital soon and the rental car was insured. :buhbye:
 

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Landing Lites

I use to sell theses lites in our auto parts store. It is safe to use without relays, but better for safety using the 150 watt bulbs, I didn`t find it necessary with the 4537`s. I have never had any problems with the 62 or 68 and they have been in them for decades. The initial post can be followed, But I unsolder-ed the original spade terminals from the original brights and re soldered them to the landing lites thereby utilizing the existing headlite plugs instead of short connecting wires jammed into the headlite bucket.. I installed them in every 4 lite system we have, Careful with them, they are instant daylight....:thumbsup:




Wally Knoch
 

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Do you wear SUNSCREEN when you walk in front of that thing?

:laughing:
 
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