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Black 08, A&A TI supercharger. Kooks headers. CCW wheels. Much more
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
one thing i'm not too fimiliar with,is alignments.i will be taking my car in for alignment tomorrow,and i'm going to watch the guy.what i'm wondering is when he adjusts the tie rod,does the upper ball joint have to come out,then loosen lock nut,hold shaft and turn the end?
or can the lock nut be loosend,then turn the shaft with the rod end still in the ball joint?i can't imagine the second option being to good for the steering rack,but i don't know.some one at work said the end can stay together and the steering rack was made so the shaft can rotate with out harm.i don't want the guy messing up my steering rack.thanks for any advise...
oh,the camber will have to be adjusted as i lowered the car as far as it can go,and the 'tilt' of the tire is noticable.if worse comes to worse,i can pick-up a bump stop kit after the car is on the lift,if needed.doesn't seem like it would need the kit,unless there's no threads left on the steering rack shaft.it's never been moved before.
aloha,Todd.
 

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hawaii-5-lo said:
when he adjusts the tie rod,does the upper ball joint have to come out,then loosen lock nut,hold shaft and turn the end?
or can the lock nut be loosend,then turn the shaft with the rod end still in the ball joint?
Yo Todd,

Yeah, it's the second. You just loosen the nut and turn the tie rod. No big deal - the car is designed that way, it won't hurt a thing.

As for lowering the car - I assume that this gave you a little negative camber? That is, it looks like the rear end of a Triumph TR-6, with the wheels splayed out? Just curious...

I lowered my car via the factory adjustments, but left in all the rubber stops. It still looks pretty high to me. Comments, anyone? I'm scraping getting in and out of my driveway and when I run over cats, :laughing: so I'm not sure I want it much lower.

Regards,

Michael :buhbye:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
hey Michael,
thanks for the reply,thats what i thought because of the groves (in the tie-rod shaft) were a wrench would fit perfectly.but i won't take chances,because the suspension part of my extended warranty is toast.i would change the rack myself,but it's only got 37.000 miles.i did not want to damage the rack.
look at my photos in the gallery,this is after lowering the second time.you can't even stick your arm under the rocker panels:thumbsup:
the back tires didn't change a lot,but the fronts were at a pretty good angle (camber).thats what i was doing today,adjusting the camber,i though i would have to do the toe also,but it's feels and looks ok.i'm not going to get it aligned until i get new-revalved,and stroked Bilstein shocks.but i wanted to "square" the tires some what.turned out good,pulled the lower control arm in about an inch.camber looks normal,it's not perfect,but when i get the shocks....
i trimmed my front spoiler,it's about half of what it was stock,and it's about a 1/2 inch from the ground,no problem,it's on a hinge.i also removed the two side pieces.they don't do anything anyway.
i still never put the frame savers (rollers) on the front.i will before i get the nose repainted.
the bolts you used to lower your front,i took them completly out.slammed.every time i get out of the car,someone wants to compliment the stance.
aloha,.. :smokin:
 
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