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Discussion Starter #1
had the '69 aligned last summer and just now observed what a poor job they did. She's been a bit squirly for as long as I can remember, but I didn't suspenct a poor alignment from a reputable shop...

Anyway, looking at their reciept, they list before, preferred, and after specs for camber, caster, and toe. However, these numbers don't match up at all with the service manual:

_________Shop ------ Service Manual
Camber . +.047* -------- +0.75*
Caster .. +2.36* --------- +1.0*
Toe ...... +0.05" ----- +3/16" to 5/16"

When I take it back in do I tell them to use their preferred settings or the ones out of the service manual? Strickly for street driving, no track time.
 

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Well, I have to find my notes on Castor /Camber. I feel 0 toe in for "spirited" driving is good, but "darty." 1/8" is good for easy handling. NO MORE than that.
Curious, where are the rear align #s? Also, how old is the front spring. If it's original, it will never align correctly. GM springs sag BAD after 20-30 years.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, I have to find my notes on Castor /Camber. I feel 0 toe in for "spirited" driving is good, but "darty." 1/8" is good for easy handling. NO MORE than that.
Curious, where are the rear align #s? Also, how old is the front spring. If it's original, it will never align correctly. GM springs sag BAD after 20-30 years.
thanks for the toe recommendations. Front springs are original to the best of my knowledge. The shop had pretty much the exact same #'s for the rear, but I couldn't find specs in the manual for the rear :huh:
 

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There you go. I would use 1/16" toe in the back. 0* Camber for street. I would also look into replacing the front springs. Big DIfference. I gaurantee they are sagged bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
just thought I'd bump this thread again to get some more input.
 

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"positive" camber?? I don`t think so..... ..redvetracr




try these specs,

camber F 1/4-1/2 NEG
camber R 0- 1/2 NEG

Caster 1-1/2 - 2-1/2 POS

Toe F 1/8-3/16 IN
R 1/16-1/8 IN
 

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I like the their specs alot better then the manual specs.
I like my camber to be near zero, I am NOT a fan of negative camber on the street.
As for caster I like as much positive caster as they can get and your 2 plus is alot better then the 1 called for.
As for toe 1/16 or .062 is often recommended and they are close to that value.
I wouldn't complain with those settings but the MOST important readout is comparing the left and right side?? YOu haven't given that value.
It is more important to be consistent side to side.
If the left and right read about the same I wouldn't complain.
 

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had the '69 aligned last summer and just now observed what a poor job they did. She's been a bit squirly for as long as I can remember, but I didn't suspenct a poor alignment from a reputable shop...

Anyway, looking at their reciept, they list before, preferred, and after specs for camber, caster, and toe. However, these numbers don't match up at all with the service manual:

_________Shop ------ Service Manual
Camber . +.047* -------- +0.75*
Caster .. +2.36* --------- +1.0*
Toe ...... +0.05" ----- +3/16" to 5/16"

When I take it back in do I tell them to use their preferred settings or the ones out of the service manual? Strickly for street driving, no track time.
What specifically you mean by 'squirreley'.....under what circumstances??

freeway cruise?? 25-40 around the 'hood'.... what type of roads?? lotsa tuck traffic on ass fault?? or are they concrete??

what sort of tyres you have, the olde tyme shapes on 15" rims, or more modern tires on say 17+ rims?? how wide are the rims?? your front end I presume is 100% on suspension....upper/lower inner bushings, ball joints, tie rods, linkages....do you have power steering??
what shape is the rear end in?? everything ritey tightey?? no bad top/tire lean in?? sure about that?? look twice...
check for loose lower struts the bushings are centered....and upper 1/2 shafts that they don't flop in and outta the diffy when pushed a lot....checn the rear bearings for slop also....

hate to overload you with questions, but hard to say without intelligent inforamtion.....:devil: :crazy: :WTF :cheers:
 

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I like the their specs alot better then the manual specs.
I like my camber to be near zero, I am NOT a fan of negative camber on the street.
As for caster I like as much positive caster as they can get and your 2 plus is alot better then the 1 called for.
As for toe 1/16 or .062 is often recommended and they are close to that value.
I wouldn't complain with those settings but the MOST important readout is comparing the left and right side?? YOu haven't given that value.
It is more important to be consistent side to side.
If the left and right read about the same I wouldn't complain.


you like positive camber?? OUT at the top?? Both Guldstrand and VB&P recommend NEGATIVE camber, front and rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
awesome, thanks for the replies guys. I'm just dealing with the front for right now. Here's what I'll request:

camber: 0 or slightly neg
caster: 2.36 (their spec)
toe: 0.0625

Both the front and rear suspension were rebuilt last summer with rubber bushings. Manual steering with a box that Gary set up. Running stock ralley's with average rubber (some uneven tread wear). I know the diff needs a little work, so I'm focusing on the front for right now.

For the most part it rolls down the road without wandering. On uneven pavement or crossing asphault where trucks have laid some ruts it requires a little attention. Overall it's been pretty good, but the front tires are definitely worn more on the inside.
 

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"positive" camber?? I don`t think so..... ..redvetracr




try these specs,

camber F 1/4-1/2 NEG
camber R 0- 1/2 NEG

Caster 1-1/2 - 2-1/2 POS

Toe F 1/8-3/16 IN
R 1/16-1/8 IN


I did my front camber positive as stated in the manual......I just went and looked at VBP specs...when I finally get it back on the ground, I am going to redo the front using the specs above.

Also, the manual adds an additional 1 degree pos castor for Pwr. Steering....Is that neccessary?
 

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Caster helps it drive down the road better

I know with my aftermarket a-arms I'm running 5-6*

I also have 2* of camber in the front. Way too much for the street though.
 

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I did my front camber positive as stated in the manual......I just went and looked at VBP specs...when I finally get it back on the ground, I am going to redo the front using the specs above.

Also, the manual adds an additional 1 degree pos castor for Pwr. Steering....Is that neccessary?
The more the castor, the less effort to turn.
 

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you like positive camber?? OUT at the top?? Both Guldstrand and VB&P recommend NEGATIVE camber, front and rear.
yea, those numbers have to be wrong. I can't think of any condition where you would ever want positive camber. Never ever.


I think alignment shops are a waste of money. I use a string to line things up and just crank in camber by eyeball. keep messing with it until it drives good.

i've never been satisfied with the way a car drives after coming out of an alignment shop.
 

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you like positive camber?? OUT at the top?? Both Guldstrand and VB&P recommend NEGATIVE camber, front and rear.
No I like neutral camber for the STREET. I want my tires to sit flat on the road, not lean in like the suspension was broken and wear the inside of the tire.
I try for Zero camber, as much caster as I can get and about 1/16 toe in.
The car handles fine, looks good, not like the susension is sagging and keeps the tires planted squarely on the road. Most of the mileage of a car is in a straight line and as for cornering I have more then enough cornering for the street.
 
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