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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so I had posted a few times on the master thread with some of my issues.

I decided that it would be best to start a thread and see if anyone could lend me some of that knowledge that I know is out there.

Here is my issue I have a 03' Z06 that I bought last year. yes I know I should have but the CLB in right away. I didn't. It locked up on me and I could not no matter how much I banged the steering wheel back and forth could get the column to unlock. I deemed that the column must have locked before and decided that it had had enough. I figured that if I did a little reconstructive surgery, (the pin is no more....) that I could then install the CLB and be on my way.

Well all is not well. I am still getting the "remove key wait 10 seconds" and "service column lock". I'm thinking that the only way for the CLB to work is the computer has to get the signal that it is unlocked before installing the CLB. My column lock was never going to unlock..... I've tried pulling fuses with no luck. I tried to drive it and it died at about 2 mph...

I'm looking for thoughts on what I should try.

Please don't post "You should have installed the Column Lock Bypass when you bought the car". I got it, I screwed this one up.

Thanks for any help!

Justin
 

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You did not mention what fuses were pulled but you should remove one side of battery and let it side that way overnight so the BCM full resets

If battery has a weak cell CL will never release properly

To end all this you really need to tune the PCM to turn VATs, CL off and either turn off the limp mode or at least increase speed from 1.5 MPH to a higher speed and also maximum allowed throttle angle from the minimum set when PCM goes into safety limp mode.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You did not mention what fuses were pulled but you should remove one side of battery and let it side that way overnight so the BCM full resets

If battery has a weak cell CL will never release properly

To end all this you really need to tune the PCM to turn VATs, CL off and either turn off the limp mode or at least increase speed from 1.5 MPH to a higher speed and also maximum allowed throttle angle from the minimum set when PCM goes into safety limp mode.
Your right I did not mention what fuses I pulled. I only pulled fuse #25 as per the directions. One point I did pull #23 to see if that would help. Both are BCM fuses.

I left it sitting overnight with the battery disconnected to see if that helps. We'll see in a few I guess.

I was hoping not to have to get the PCM reprogrammed but maybe that is the only way??

Thanks for the help

Justin
 

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Discussion Starter #4
racingvette,

Question on tuning the PCM for what you are telling do I need to send my PCM to someone to do that or what tuner would you use for that? I.E. Diablosport predator tuner or what? Sorry for my ignorance I'm just trying to figure this out.

Thanks

justin
 

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racingvette,

Question on tuning the PCM for what you are telling do I need to send my PCM to someone to do that or what tuner would you use for that? I.E. Diablosport predator tuner or what? Sorry for my ignorance I'm just trying to figure this out.

Thanks

justin
NO.

It clearly states in the instructions of the column lock harness AND the thread that you first posted in that you do NOT install the cable if the column is still locked up. That is a very important detail. Secondly, you do not want to go sending your PCM off to be reprogrammed. Everything that you could possibly want to know about the CL issue is that thread and those two videos that I posted in the sticky. Paul takes the time to explain in detail all about the column lock issue and you would benefit directly by studying them.

At this point, you'd be better off just taking the car to a dealership before you really screw it up.
 

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Killing off CL in a tune is smartest path long term

CL bypasses are known to fail over time.
Part of the GM recall was to force the limp mode and also limit gas pedal to only 16% and maximum speed to 1.5 MPH

A bypass cannot stop any of that and anything that fools PCM even if it is due to low battery will trip limp and reduced engine mode where if he has PCM tuned then the tuner adjust or turns those features off along with CL.

This way no matter what happens the engine starts and runs and does not have the hassle of some bypass or wiring problems in the future along with using money on a bypass for helping pay for his performance tune.

GM does not even use a CL in later C6s as they found not having one does not increase the car being stolen as VATs does a good job so much so that the Corvette is low on the list of cars stolen.
 

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CL bypasses are known to fail over time.
Totally false. There is absolutely no documented proof of this statement whatsoever. As a matter of fact, there are a thousand threads that prove the exact opposite. Show me one thread where the column lock cabled failed where it was due to the cable and not something else. I bet you won't find one.
 

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Totally false. There is absolutely no documented proof of this statement whatsoever. As a matter of fact, there are a thousand threads that prove the exact opposite. Show me one thread where the column lock cabled failed where it was due to the cable and not something else. I bet you won't find one.
I have seen at least 6 of them myself that had failed.

Big difference in Threads and real world but in the end doing it all in the PCM is cleaner, less failure rate and is not effected by other false trips CL bypass has with low battery or bad cells on startup as bypass does not solve ANY of the DTCs related to CL.
 

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I have seen at least 6 of them myself that had failed.

Big difference in Threads and real world but in the end doing it all in the PCM is cleaner, less failure rate and is not effected by other false trips CL bypass has with low battery or bad cells on startup as bypass does not solve ANY of the DTCs related to CL.
As if there is a difference between someone posting that their CLB cable failed and real world? Failure is failure and if one failed, I'd bet the farm that it was due to something other than the cable, be it the battery or poor installation. The cable is a proven fix and there are tons of threads that prove this, including the sticky and a bunch of threads on a bunch of different forums. That I can prove..
 

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As if there is a difference between someone posting that their CLB cable failed and real world? Failure is failure and if one failed, I'd bet the farm that it was due to something other than the cable, be it the battery or poor installation. The cable is a proven fix and there are tons of threads that prove this, including the sticky and a bunch of threads on a bunch of different forums. That I can prove..
Has zero to do with the fact a bypass cannot prevent the 1.5 MPH limp mode and no more then 16% throttle.
Anything fails including these bypasses so why spend the money on that when doing a tune does all the performance gains plus rids CL, limp mode, throttle angle and can be done free while tuner is doing the performance tune

Re-read the OP !

Well all is not well. I am still getting the "remove key wait 10 seconds" and "service column lock". I'm thinking that the only way for the CLB to work is the computer has to get the signal that it is unlocked before installing the CLB. My column lock was never going to unlock..... I've tried pulling fuses with no luck. I tried to drive it and it died at about 2 mph...


Thus in short he could drive the car which means the steering wheel was not locked BUT the PCM has false info and trips into the CL limp mode !

You cannot ever solve that with a CL bypass and even a low or bad battery can fake PCM even with bypass in and owner is screwed in a safety limp mode.

You can thank all the whiners who never having CL issues or having them but because of battery issue crying to the feds that maybe the steering wheel would lock while car was in motion forcing GM to add the PCM software CL limp mode and no matter what cannot be cured with a bypass.

As C5s are getting too old it is far wiser to turn this crap off in the tune rather then a band-aid bypass that can fail.
 

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Has zero to do with the fact a bypass cannot prevent the 1.5 MPH limp mode and no more then 16% throttle.
What are you talking about? For the thousands of folks who have correctly installed the bypass cable, they are no longer having any issues. If you were to read the hundreds of threads about this issue, you would see that the cable resolved their issue.

Anything fails including these bypasses so why spend the money on that when doing a tune does all the performance gains plus rids CL, limp mode, throttle angle and can be done free while tuner is doing the performance tune

Re-read the OP !

Well all is not well. I am still getting the "remove key wait 10 seconds" and "service column lock". I'm thinking that the only way for the CLB to work is the computer has to get the signal that it is unlocked before installing the CLB. My column lock was never going to unlock..... I've tried pulling fuses with no luck. I tried to drive it and it died at about 2 mph...
That's right, READ THE OP's STATEMENT!

He installed the cable while his steering wheel was still locked up! If you knew anything about the column lock cable, you would know that the instructions CLEARLY STATE: Do not install if your column is currently locked up!

Thus in short he could drive the car which means the steering wheel was not locked BUT the PCM has false info and trips into the CL limp mode !
WRONG. The hundreds of folks riding around with the CLB have proven you wrong as the Edsel.

You cannot ever solve that with a CL bypass and even a low or bad battery can fake PCM even with bypass in and owner is screwed in a safety limp mode.

You can thank all the whiners who never having CL issues or having them but because of battery issue crying to the feds that maybe the steering wheel would lock while car was in motion forcing GM to add the PCM software CL limp mode and no matter what cannot be cured with a bypass.

As C5s are getting too old it is far wiser to turn this crap off in the tune rather then a band-aid bypass that can fail.
So do you care to explain why all the folks who have properly installed the cable, are no longer having issues for years after the install? You need to go back and read the sticky, along with watching Paul's videos so that you can get a better understanding of this issue.
 

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And there is many that installed the CL bypass that have failed as well as many who get the CL failure on startup even when the steering wheel is NOT locked

You take your input on what you read,
I repair the failures and you just do not understand why GM made software changes to the main segment 1 of the PCM to default on a safe mode to limp state forced on them as to CL recall when in most cases CL failed due to battery issues

Kinda stupid to solve a feedback, voltage, PCM issue with some so called bypass when all the CL issues can be fixed in 2 minutes in the PCM.

Try a owner who buys a used Corvette has a bypass failure yet owner has no clue that one was even installed :-(
 

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And where is your proof? I can show you thread after thread where folks have installed the cable correctly and have never had an issue yet. Not just here on DC, but across the planet on every Corvette forum out there. I know, I spend enough time on them.

Now you show me thread after thread where the opposite has happened. Don't give me that crap about you repairing anything because I haven't seen one thread of your DIY's or any listing of any shop that you work at. Post your proof if you actually know what you're talking about.

I'm dying to see this shop. :rolleyes:
 

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Ok so I had posted a few times on the master thread with some of my issues.

I decided that it would be best to start a thread and see if anyone could lend me some of that knowledge that I know is out there.

Here is my issue I have a 03' Z06 that I bought last year. yes I know I should have but the CLB in right away. I didn't. It locked up on me and I could not no matter how much I banged the steering wheel back and forth could get the column to unlock. I deemed that the column must have locked before and decided that it had had enough. I figured that if I did a little reconstructive surgery, (the pin is no more....) that I could then install the CLB and be on my way.

Well all is not well. I am still getting the "remove key wait 10 seconds" and "service column lock". I'm thinking that the only way for the CLB to work is the computer has to get the signal that it is unlocked before installing the CLB. My column lock was never going to unlock..... I've tried pulling fuses with no luck. I tried to drive it and it died at about 2 mph...

I'm looking for thoughts on what I should try.

Please don't post "You should have installed the Column Lock Bypass when you bought the car". I got it, I screwed this one up.

Thanks for any help!

Justin
I just had mine done Last month for free by GM because it was a recall. Don't know if you knew that.
 

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I just had mine done Last month for free by GM because it was a recall. Don't know if you knew that.
That's if you can get them to do it under the recall. A lot of dealerships will try to squirm out of the recall, or they'll do the wrong repair and leave you stranded somewhere. If you want a dealership to do the repair, arm yourself with the correct information. This document would be what you would want to bring with you.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok just wanted to let you know how I ended up fixing my car.

I had drilled out the lock pin in hopes that I could just install the CLB and be done with it. Well we all know that the computer was looking for the "unlock" signal so I could get rid of the "Service Column Lock" along with the fuel shutoff above 2mph.

Or believe that it was looking for that signal.

After putting in that CLB and it not working I ordered a new Column Lock from GMpartsgiant online. I plugged it in and nothing.... It wouldn't unlock or lock. Frustrated I was feeling that my only option was to take it to the dealer....

However I had a friend of my that is a mechanic come over and take a look at it today and here is what we found out:

On the passenger side above the PCM there are two relays. The one on the right is the relay to lock and unlock the Column Lock.



The picture above shows where the relay WAS.

This relay when we pulled it showed some signs of corrosion and had failed. When we jumped pin 30 to 80 we were able to get the column to unlock and lock! Presto the problem was a bad relay!


Here is the relay we pulled



We put a new relay in and installed the CLB and the car runs like a champ!!

Also if you want to permanently disable the pin just take a flat head screw driver to the back of the column lock and pry the back plastic plate off and the pin will come out. You don't have the massacre it like I did and drill it out.... :crazy:




Justin
 

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Dude, that looks brutal! :laughing:

I see a little frustration in your technique, but at least you're working again and you didn't have to reprogram anything. :thumbsup:
 
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