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I used an 80-82 cross-member under my 77 for my LS transplant . I read that the 4L60 bolted straight on to it , well it did after I made a new tongue to suit :laughing: I used it because the 77 cross-member has the two holes but the position of the 4L60 pan would have meant some tight turns in the pipes which I could do with out .

I am running twin pipes and had to mod the cross-member to suit .




just an idea , not sure about your lower seat issue will affect it.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I used an 80-82 cross-member under my 77 for my LS transplant . I read that the 4L60 bolted straight on to it , well it did after I made a new tongue to suit :laughing: I used it because the 77 cross-member has the two holes but the position of the 4L60 pan would have meant some tight turns in the pipes which I could do with out .

I am running twin pipes and had to mod the cross-member to suit .




just an idea , not sure about your lower seat issue will affect it.
You have a clean setup there, I like. I haven't done much with the body yet been focused on the chassis/drive train. Couple of pics below show the problem caused by the power seat pan on the driver side. There is no possibility of running the pipe under the driver seat pan without it drooping down below the frame, so that's not a viable option. I think there may be just enough room right behind the x-member to divert the pipe over to the pass side, then cross back over before exiting at the rear. Failing that, I suppose I could ditch the power seat although I've been told the manual seat tracks for 81-82 are almost impossible to find. That combined with fabricating a new seat pan make that a possible, but not desirable option. If all else fails I guess there could be sidepipes in my future but they aren't my favorite. I also put a clearance relief in the stock x-member that mirrors the one on the pass side. I originally was going to use the hacked up x-member as a template to fab a new one but may just use it anyway. It'll look a little better after powder coat.


 

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yeah I see your problem ,and dilemma to fix .

I would like to hang on to the creature comforts inside personally so I would look at different exhaust routing .

If you weren't against side pipes it wouldn't be a problem I guess , sorry I don't have any real help to offer , only just a crazy idea of going single 3 inch and back to twin (kind of like ) as per factory set up , but that would probably drone real bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
C3 Body Lift

I've had several people ask about the body lift adapters I made, so I'll share here.

However, a word of caution is important;

***NEVER ATTEMPT TO LIFT THE BODY WITH THE CHASSIS ATTACHED!!

***THE BODY MOUNTS ARE NOT DESIGNED TO SUPPORT THE WEIGHT OF THE CHASSIS! IF YOU TRY TO LIFT THE ENTIRE CAR THIS WAY, IT IS PRETTY MUCH GUARANTEED TO DAMAGE/DESTROY THE BODY!!!

*** YOU ASSUME ALL RISKS IF YOU MAKE AND USE THE ADAPTERS!!!

Ok, with all that out of the way, when I first lifted the body off the chassis I used the hooks/straps available from several of the Corvette specialty suppliers. They worked, but it wasn't a confidence builder for sure. Plus it's hard to work on the body with it dangling and swinging around.

I decided it would be better to fabricate some kind of adapter to put on the lift arms. So I wound up with the "buttons" that drop into the lift arms, a 3/8" plate to weld the buttons onto, and a 3/16" blade that would fit between the frame rail and the birdcage "channel".

If you try this be sure that the weight of the body is supported by the top of the "blade" where it contacts the birdcage channel, NOT the lower edge of the body!

This setup works very well and supports the body firmly and securely. I have CAD drawings that I made for my Forward Lift. If anyone is interested in the drawings let me know.

And BE SAFE above all else. These adapters are designed with a substantial safety factor but if you are not confident with your welding or fabrication ability find a friend that is. Again, I ASSUME NO RESPONSIBILITY for the use of these adapters
 

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Discussion Starter #27
yeah I see your problem ,and dilemma to fix .

I would like to hang on to the creature comforts inside personally so I would look at different exhaust routing .

If you weren't against side pipes it wouldn't be a problem I guess , sorry I don't have any real help to offer , only just a crazy idea of going single 3 inch and back to twin (kind of like ) as per factory set up , but that would probably drone real bad.
After talking this over with a good friend with a lot of fabrication experience, I've decided to fabricate my own system using one (or more) of the stainless steel 304 alloy kits that are available. I'll be using a pre-fabricated "X" pipe along with the mandrel bent curve sections. I'll need to brush up on my TIG skills, if I have any! More to come, I'll make posts of my progress when I get to that point.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Shifter position

Ok, got the American Powertrain shifter set up, the shifter handle will mount on the left side of the stub. Very close to the ideal position. The AP shifter is very short throw and has independently adjustable tension for the right and left gates. A short shifter handle with a slight angle back should be about right. LS3 with T-56.

 

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After talking this over with a good friend with a lot of fabrication experience, I've decided to fabricate my own system using one (or more) of the stainless steel 304 alloy kits that are available. I'll be using a pre-fabricated "X" pipe along with the mandrel bent curve sections. I'll need to brush up on my TIG skills, if I have any! More to come, I'll make posts of my progress when I get to that point.
I'm interested to see how it turns out with the routing of the pipes .

Shifter looks good in the hole !
 

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Impressive
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Vintage Air Front Runner

After a lot of head scratching I finally gritted my teeth and went with the Vintage Air Front Runner setup. It seems to have one of the most compact systems. One thing of note however, the troublesome heater hose outlets are about 1/4" LOWER than the stock water pump from my donor car, 2010 SS Camaro. I will tap the small hole and use an Earls AN connection. I will tap and plug the large hole, weld a boss onto the bottom of the casting and tap/thread for the fitting. Everything else looks like it will clear with ease. This is just a dry fit, that's why the pwr steering pump pulley isn't pressed on to it's final location.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Hey, what upper a-arms have you got there? BTW... on the bottom heater hose fitting, since it has to be a right angle, make sure it's tight and leak free. It's a pain to tighten once on the car. Ask me how I know... :spanked:
The upper A-arms are from Speed Direct. I also got the Steeriods from them. I'm also thinking that I'll probably wind up with their lower control arms with coil overs before it's all over. But I thought I'd wait and see how the ride height turns out. The lower control arm swap shouldn't be that hard with everything all assembled. I can imagine that the fitting moved to the bottom of the water pump thermostat would be a pain to get to. I'm planning to use a 90° NPT to AN fitting. Also fabricating a boss to weld onto the bottom of the housing to ensure enough material to get good thread engagement. Would love to hear any experiences you have had with that arrangement!
 

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Discussion Starter #34
The upper A-arms are from Speed Direct. I also got the Steeriods from them. I'm also thinking that I'll probably wind up with their lower control arms with coil overs before it's all over. But I thought I'd wait and see how the ride height turns out. The lower control arm swap shouldn't be that hard with everything all assembled. I can imagine that the fitting moved to the bottom of the water pump thermostat would be a pain to get to. I'm planning to use a 90° NPT to AN fitting. Also fabricating a boss to weld onto the bottom of the housing to ensure enough material to get good thread engagement. Would love to hear any experiences you have had with that arrangement!
I did a quick browse of your build link, will look at it closer when I get a little more time. I see you are one of the many victims of the Photobucket Hi-Jack. Too bad, would sure like to see the pictures. Also, I noticed that back in 2013 you had a headlight vacuum hose kit that you weren't going to use. Just wondering if you might still have it by chance?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
EVAP System Advice

Seeking advice. I'm at the stage where I'm firming up my choice of ECM. I already have a new fuel tank/pump system from Vetteworks but I'm wondering about the EVAP system. At the moment my favored plan is to use the GM Performance ECM kit, but in studying the I/O I'm not seeing any provision for a signal to purge the EVAP system like on the stock system. Looking for recommendations here from those of you that have done a similar swap. The options I have range from eliminating the EVAP system altogether to a fully functioning system like a stock system. Will appreciate input!
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Greetings all, sorry I dropped out of sight last May. I had to stop my project and fight leukemia. I'm doing better now and have started getting back out to the shop from time to time. My 81 C3 has been patiently waiting! Not sure where I left off, and have forgotten how I was posting images. Will figure that out and post some pics of what I have done. Glad to be back!
 

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Discussion Starter #37
81 Resto Mod back in progress

The significant things I've done since getting back in the shop are the mods to the Vintage Air water pump and the hydraulic clutch. I drilled and welded a "bung" on the bottom of the thermostat housing and plugged the original return hole. The output hole was drilled and tapped. Both will now accommodate NPT to AN fittings with plenty of clearance. Since the hydraulic clutch mounts to the firewall under the brake booster I was concerned about the fiberglass firewall flexing. I made a template out of paper for a reinforcement that will transfer the load up to the pedal frame assembly. Will make it out of 12 ga steel plate.



 

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Discussion Starter #38
Hydraulic Clutch Conversion

With a hydraulic clutch I got to worrying about the fiberglass firewall flexing since it now has to absorb the clutch pedal pressure. I made a reinforcement plate (12 ga) that transfers the load to the pedal cage assy. I also made a mount for the master cylinder that uses the original hole in the firewall. The pushrod is a mockup but works so well I may just use it instead of having one machined. A 5/16" rod bearing end fits perfectly on the factory pin on the clutch pedal arm. Very smooth, no weird angles, no binding. Broke it down for powder coat tomorrow.




 

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Discussion Starter #39
Vintage Air Front Runner Installed

Got the installation of the Vintage Air Front Runner setup done tonight. Went with Vintage air because it's compact, easy, and appears to be high quality.





 

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Looking really good Man !
 
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