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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So today I was trying to put the new bushings in the batwing of my new rearend and it seems like I am trying to stuff 10lbs of s**t in a 5lb bag. :bang

The bushing is a good 2-3mm larger and doesn't seem to want to shrink much.

What am I missing? or is this something that I am going to have to take somewhere to have them installed?
 

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I did not do the bushings on the rear end. When I did my front end converstion I took my A-arms into my local shop. They did it on a bench with a small bench press.

I was like, that looked easy. Harbor freight (or any discount tool place) has 1 ton arbor presses for under 50.00 when I priced them.
 

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I did all my sway bar end links and such myself, but that's all I've replaced with urethane. It wasn't fun, it wasn't easy, but then again I used a bench vise and some small sockets to do the job, so I wasn't well equipped.
 

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C7 2015, torch red, Z51, 7 speed manual
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I'm in the process of upgrading my suspension on my 94 and had the same problem. The swaybay end linkage is too small. There is a sleeve in the linkage and once it was removed the bushing fit like butter. I first tried in myself and cut the hell and mashed the bushing up. The machine shop was no better. The bushing diameter is bigger than the hole. The brass interior bushing makes it impossible to squezze the rubber to get it in.

What a pain in the ass but with the sleeve out of the way it looked right. I even order stock replacement parts and they were the same ones I had in the kit.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
so you done yet??

:laughing:
HAHAHA :nuts:

Anyways, no I am not done. Last night I removed the outer pressed in sleaves from the batwing- that was fun - but now the new bushings fit!!!

Once I get a second pair of hands over to my house, I will get differential tossed back in.

So far I have slit my finger open, broke 2 rusty bolts, found 2 broken exhaust hangers, one flat spare tire, and a bunch of rust in the trunk floor area.
 

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Poly bushing change out

I did my complete car myself. Did you remove the metal sleeve that was around the old bushing? When installing poly you are supposed to press out the sleeve. The poly bushing is a little bigger to make up the difference. I actually did mine with the bar still in the car. I had everything else out already, left the bar attached to the rearend, but took the bolts out of the crossmember that runs up to the tranny to give room for it to slide a little. Then put a jack under the rearend housing,(make sure you have rubber between the jack and the housing so it doesn't slide. Then take the bolt out of one side at a time and slowly lower it and it will hang just enough under the bracket to get the bushing and sleeve out. I took an air saw and cut a groove almost all the way through the sleeve in two places, and then used a long chisel and a hammer and tapped the sleeve on the outer edge between the cuts to cause it to break the rest of the way. It then collapsed into the hole and I could pull it out. Even with the sleeve out the fit will be tight. If you need to, use a large pair of channel locks to help press it in, just put something on the jaws to keep it from cutting into the bushing. Make sure you lube all the bushings good when installing them, or they will squeek. If you need extra lube, Advance, and Auto Zone sell extra tubes.Also, you are supposed to put weight back on everything before you torque it all down to specs so not to cause binding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I did my complete car myself. Did you remove the metal sleeve that was around the old bushing? When installing poly you are supposed to press out the sleeve. The poly bushing is a little bigger to make up the difference. I actually did mine with the bar still in the car. I had everything else out already, left the bar attached to the rearend, but took the bolts out of the crossmember that runs up to the tranny to give room for it to slide a little. Then put a jack under the rearend housing,(make sure you have rubber between the jack and the housing so it doesn't slide. Then take the bolt out of one side at a time and slowly lower it and it will hang just enough under the bracket to get the bushing and sleeve out. I took an air saw and cut a groove almost all the way through the sleeve in two places, and then used a long chisel and a hammer and tapped the sleeve on the outer edge between the cuts to cause it to break the rest of the way. It then collapsed into the hole and I could pull it out. Even with the sleeve out the fit will be tight. If you need to, use a large pair of channel locks to help press it in, just put something on the jaws to keep it from cutting into the bushing. Make sure you lube all the bushings good when installing them, or they will squeek. If you need extra lube, Advance, and Auto Zone sell extra tubes.Also, you are supposed to put weight back on everything before you torque it all down to specs so not to cause binding.
This would have been great to know before I started!! :thud: My problem was that the install directions clearly stated to leave the sleeve in - so even though it seemed obvious that I had to remove the sleeve, I waited till monday to call the company to see what they had to say- basically they said 'you should be ok if you remove it' (big help they were). So I went ahead, I used a chisel to catch the edge of the sleeve and cave it on itself till it loosened enough and was able to be pushed out. I was able to put the new bushings in with new problem.

You said you did the whole car, were there sleeves like these for all the rest of the rear suspension parts? if so I am assuming you followed the same steps process?
 

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Those were the only outer sleeves in the rear. The rest is rubber and not too hard to replace.
 
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