Corvette Forum : DigitalCorvettes.com Corvette Forums banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Got some time the next few days and I want to tackle this. My new 383 w/TH400 is leaking oil down the back of the block. Used the dye and a UV light. Its either the an oil galley plug or the cam plug. Hard to see up in there. Won't know for sure till I get in there. Did a search, not much in the archives!

I would appreciate some advice or some tips on installing this with the motor still in the car. Is there enough room to drive the plug in? Usually these are steel, can brass be used? and what's the best sealer to use?

I want to get this right it's a PITA to get to.....been fighting problems with this engine since November..thanks, Mark
 

·
Supporting Vendor
Joined
·
3,771 Posts
I don't see how you're going to install that in the car. It has to go in square and to a certain depth.


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,197 Posts
I don't see how you're going to install that in the car. It has to go in square and to a certain depth.


I think he is talking about the "freeze plug" style cam end cap. I'll put money on the galley plug. Either will be an easy fix with the trans out. I have a leaking plug under the left cylinder head. I'll trade ya, 72:D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I don't see how you're going to install that in the car. It has to go in square and to a certain depth.


Gary thanks for the picture!!! I need to replace the steel rear cam expansion plug or re-seal a galley plug. The cam bearings have been replaced. This a new engingine. The only thing original is the block and the ram horn exhaust manifolds....Mark aka mbeeman350 over at CF.:cheers:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I think he is talking about the "freeze plug" style cam end cap. I'll put money on the galley plug. Either will be an easy fix with the trans out. I have a leaking plug under the left cylinder head. I'll trade ya, 72:D
That's a deal. I would rather pull heads and work on top the engine than lay on my back @ 55 years of age and wrestle with a th400 tranny ...:cheers:
best of luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Not to fast...I have a lift and trans jack at home....:D Yours is a 3 hour job, mine is a 10 hour job, minimum.:cheers:
Yeah, w/o the lift and a trans jack, and removing the complete exhaust system with the cross member, it will be a 10 hour job for me..:laughing: :laughing:
I had to pull the heads on this engine before. If you recall on the CF, King Lear and some others thought the Pro Comp heads were bad. I found oil on the intake valves..so I thought my PC heads were bad. Not so...the heads CC'd out to 64 on the chambers and 192 on the intake runners. They are decent heads. I replaced them another new set of heads...Trick Flows. Still smoked. Had to pull the engine and go through the short block again (builder did) with Total Seal file fit rings, new bearings and so on. Now I have this oil leak.:surprised
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,100 Posts
I'm not 100% sure, but we used to change (re-seal) cam plugs on the old 2.8L v-6's. Had to pull the tranny and flexplate. Looks to me like if you get a steel plug, the right size socket, some #2 Permatex and drive 'er home it's a can't miss. The lip in the block will give you the correct depth and make it square. Just don't put so much goo on it that it gets into the bearing. But Like I said, I'm NOT 100% sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,916 Posts
Gary thanks for the picture!!! I need to replace the steel rear cam expansion plug or re-seal a galley plug. The cam bearings have been replaced. This a new engingine. The only thing original is the block and the ram horn exhaust manifolds....Mark aka mbeeman350 over at CF.:cheers:
:WTF I can't believe you keep going back to that idiot rebuilder.:rolleyes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
:WTF I can't believe you keep going back to that idiot rebuilder.:rolleyes:

Only went back one time!! In his defense. He went through the engine after the smoking issues with Total Seal file fit rings, new bearings, gaskets etc and assembled the long block and delivered it to me.
I ran the engine on a stand outside the car severl times. Set the valves went over the engine looking for leaks and issues. NOTHING. Got about 150 miles on the car and this crap started....could be a galley plug...could be the cam plug. Just can't see enough of the back of the block.

The lesson learned here....buy a crate motor from reliable, reputable source like GM or Year One or build it myself!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
367 Posts
72 Two Top......

Not sure if this will help, but I had an oil leak on the left side of my 327 after a rebuild. Oil would leak down from what looked like the rear left corner of the intake gasket. I changed gaskets more times than I care to say but didn't fix it. I sat down with an old Hot Rod High Performance book and looked at the oil passage for the rear cam bearing. It showed a oil galley that's in the left rear of the block, under the left head. It's used in the machining of the rear cam bearing and then blocked off with a plug. It's about 1/2" in diameter and all I could see of it was a little less than a 1/3rd of sticking out from under the cyl. head. I pulled the left head and the damn plug was loose. I could rotate it. It had been replaced by the machine shop that replaced all the freeze plugs. I fixed it by pulling the plug, putting a greased up rag in the galley and tapping the hole for a plug. No more leak:thumbsup:
 

·
Supporting Vendor
Joined
·
3,771 Posts
Yes I know the ref was for the plug, I just didn't have a picture of one handy. I still think it's going to be a "bear" to do but keep me posted.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Yes I know the ref was for the plug, I just didn't have a picture of one handy. I still think it's going to be a "bear" to do but keep me posted.
Everyone keeps telling me no problem to do a change out in the car.

I am trying to figure out how to get the cam plug out.

ANYONE GOT SOME TIPS ON THAT???

thanks, Mark
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,100 Posts
Either like big_g says, or drive a sheet metal screw into it. Grab the screw and pull/pry it out. Be careful around the edge- don't ding the block. No sense in making a spot for another leak.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
125 Posts
I've had to do this several times in the car.I drilled a hole in the corner of the plug with the drill bit almost parallel to the crankshaft just through the plug.Then I screwed in the hole a fine thread self tapping screw that I modified by grinding the end off of.The plug is thick enough to pickup several threads and the plug pops on that side.I have used the same screw on all of them.I believe it is hard and looks a lot like one of the machine scews holding your wiper switch into the cluster.Use vacuum cleaner and a magnet to make sure no shavings are left.I put my hole about 3 oclock.I used old non-hardening Permatex #2 I believe.:thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I've had to do this several times in the car.I drilled a hole in the corner of the plug with the drill bit almost parallel to the crankshaft just through the plug.Then I screwed in the hole a fine thread self tapping screw that I modified by grinding the end off of.The plug is thick enough to pickup several threads and the plug pops on that side.I have used the same screw on all of them.I believe it is hard and looks a lot like one of the machine scews holding your wiper switch into the cluster.Use vacuum cleaner and a magnet to make sure no shavings are left.I put my hole about 3 oclock.I used old non-hardening Permatex #2 I believe.:thumbsup:
Interesting...so you are saying to use the screw to "push" against the end of the cam to get the cam plug out? Will this hurt anything? Especially if you have a retro roller cam, with a thrust bearing on the other end.....
thanks, Mark
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
125 Posts
Interesting...so you are saying to use the screw to "push" against the end of the cam to get the cam plug out? Will this hurt anything? Especially if you have a retro roller cam, with a thrust bearing on the other end.....
thanks, Mark
No not on the cam although as Bigbird said it wont hurt it.I go right in the corner so the screw hits the the block.By going into the corner of the plug you get more "meat" for the screw to bite into.
Edit-here is a pic of the "actual" screw-I drilled a freeze plug to show you what I meant,I didnt have a cam plug.Anyone recognize the screw?:laughing:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
No not on the cam although as Bigbird said it wont hurt it.I go right in the corner so the screw hits the the block.By going into the corner of the plug you get more "meat" for the screw to bite into.
Edit-here is a pic of the "actual" screw-I drilled a freeze plug to show you what I meant,I didnt have a cam plug.Anyone recognize the screw?:laughing:
Great Idea!! Great picture!!!! I got a tranny last night, Monday night and hope to start on this adventure today. Will keep everyone posted.
thanks
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top