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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The aluminum and copper gasket's they cost about 20-30 bucks more than the paper header gaskets. So are they worth the extra bucks? i could see it i guess if you have to take the motor apart alot.



Kevin
 

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Yes, I think so. More important than that the flanges on the headers need to be at least 3/8"
 

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The aluminum and copper gasket's they cost about 20-30 bucks more than the paper header gaskets. So are they worth the extra bucks? i could see it i guess if you have to take the motor apart alot.



Kevin
Yep. They won't blow out like the others.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So would you use the Copper gasket or the Aluminum gasket,or will either one do the job fine.

I,m asking this because the builder realy opened up those Brodix heads on the intake and the exhaust and was conserned about blowing the header gaskets.
 

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So would you use the Copper gasket or the Aluminum gasket,or will either one do the job fine.

I,m asking this because the builder realy opened up those Brodix heads on the intake and the exhaust and was conserned about blowing the header gaskets.
I bought copper for my exhaust flanges. Stopped blowing out. My muffler guy tells me aluminum is the goods.:huh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well me thinks i will take back the paper gaskets and get the Aluminum header gaskets and whileI'mAtIt might as well get the Aluminum collecter gaskets.only an extra 40 bucks what the hey, right :laughing: . just didn't want to spend the money if the were not worth it.:smack
 

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depending how old the headers are you might consider cutting the flanges.....just two cuts per side with a hack saw or a Sawzall, it will help alot. my 23* head motor had old Hooker race headers with the reversion plates and no matter what I did they leaked....cutting the flanges helped...new motor, new headers NO leaks!
redvetracr
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks Howard,my headers are just a few months old,probably don't have 200 miles on them,I have the DynoMax Cyclones with the ceramic coat. would that also help if you cut the flanges to help the bolt holes line up,have had some in the past well used headers that when removed were a bear to get the holes to line up again.


Kevin
 

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I just bought a new SAWZALL! Looks like I got it just in time!! :D :D


The aluminum gaskets are way better than paper. ANYTHING is better than paper. You;ll still need to re torque a couple of times, but that's much easier than changing gaskets. And since your builder opened the ports, find the biggest ports you can. Try Midwest Motorsports at 78th & State KCK.
 

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yes I believe that would help.....the intense heat warps things, I found the two cuts relieves the warp and makes it easier to bolt them up.
redvetracr
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the info guys, im going to use the Alum gaskets,they should be easier to open up and match the heads.:thumbsup:

Tim you and your power tools are banned from my garage :laughing: by the time you get done cutting my motor will look like swiss cheese :spanked:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
yea but think how light it would be.....
Deffinate weight reduction :laughing: although i might have a problem keeping the oil and water in the block,but with all that ventilation i might not need it hhhmmmmm :laughing:
 

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Tim, hope that sawzall is a MILWAUKEE, best damn sawzall on the market, bar NONE....variable speed trigger, easy to get at allen bolt for blades....

simple design...good kick plate, I been using one for decades....

:cheers: :cheers: :thumbsup:
 

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Tim, hope that sawzall is a MILWAUKEE, best damn sawzall on the market, bar NONE....variable speed trigger, easy to get at allen bolt for blades....

simple design...good kick plate, I been using one for decades....

:cheers: :cheers: :thumbsup:
:agree:

That's what I got. But mine has a QUICK CHANGE for the blades. Turn the collar to lock.

:cheers:
 
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