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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Aloha gang,
got some ARP heat treated wheel studs for the rear, stock is 2" long, i grabbed 2.5" for more adjustment on offsets. I have 3 sets of rims rite now, some need spacers, some dont. One set of wheels uses 1/4" spacer, makes me a little un easy at that point. I took the rotor off for a quik look, seems like i'll have to remove the large locking nut,then pull the hub off to be able to extract the wheel studs, anyone have a better way?
Thanks
 

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havent done it on a C5, but from the way it looks that is pretty much it. GL trying to ge that nut off without an impact lol
 

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I'm not sure that you can just change the studs. They are part of the wheel hub.




If they do come out, it looks like you may have to remove the wheel hub. That's a barrel of fun. See this thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Nice link and pic. The studs are splined. Can use the "tool", or a c clamp with a socket, or like most do it, pound them out with a hammer. Ive done it all ways before, just never on a c5. Maybe have to wait til next weekend. Be nice to get some stronger than stock wheel studs on there for some piece of mind as i add power along the way as well.
 

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just went and looked in my factory service manual. they are simply pressed in, but you do have to remove the hub to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Kool, thanks guys.
 

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Lou over at LG motorsports did write up on this where you do not have to remove the entire assembly. The backs however you have to drill a hole through the e-brake covers and rotate the hub around to drive each stud out through that hole.

Here is a link to the writeup. I think there is a link within that link to Lou's procedure.

http://www.z06vette.com/forums/f117/diy-wheel-stud-replacement-44186/

Good luck.
 

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Hell, it's easier just to take it all apart. You can see in my write up that it is not that much work. While you're in there, you can take care of your leaky butt. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Kool, thanks for the link. Not even going to try drilling a hole in the plate like Lou was suggesting, thats only if the car doesnt have a parking brake. Like a race car i guess.
I'll check out your link junkman, i think the previous owner had everything serviced at the dealer, even the the stage 2 clutch was installed by a GM dealer. This car doesnt leak a drop or burn any oil. But...... never hurts to change a seal when your one step away. I will probably do that as well.
 

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Hmmm... if you seal isn't leaking, I'd be 50/50 on changing it. The driver's side usually always develops a leak but it's hard to say if I would do it if it was not leaking.
 
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