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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay. Finally got some time to install my spreader bar. For those that may remember/care, I decided to change my upper a arm cross shaft retaining bolts. They were stripped out in the holes, and the alignment shop buggered up the ends, holding them with vice grips, while tightening them.
TT and Norvall suggested tack welding, but I opted for new bolts, since they were buggered. Now, could I do that in the car without complete disassembly? The answer is yes. Not easily, but doable.
BBShark came up with some Napa part#s that work.641-1268 for the bolts, and 4867-032 for the torque nuts. They are 7/16"/20x2 1/8" with larger/oversize splines.

Now for the fun part. Front on jack stands, wheels off, and jack under lower a arms. Just enough pressure to compress the spring. It gave me just enough room to hold the old bolts with a long extension, while backing off the nuts. Mark the shims and remove, and the old ones came out easily.
Now, how to install the oversize splined bolts with limited space? The new bolts have splines slightly longer, so they pertrude into the shaft area, and will not fit into the cross shaft. Answer, re install the shims. They are larger in ID. Now to install.
Back to the hardware store for 7/16"/20 grade 8 nuts, and washers. I re installed the shims, then used 2 washers and a nut to act as a puller.

After cranking for quite some time with a ratcheting box, and the necessary cheater bar, they pulled all the way in and set.



After removing these nuts and washers, I was easily able to add my spreader bar brackets and torque nuts. Then, on to the pass side, which necessitated removing the A/C compressor.:thud:


So, the morale of the story. These bolts can all be changed in a day, on the car, without dissassembling the whole she-bang.:thumbsup:
Thank you BBShark, and TT for your help on this.
 

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that's certainly a better solution than tack welding :) I'll have to do it like that the next time one decides to spin in there.
 

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When I pulled my front end apart, my A-arm bolts were actual bolts, not that round head stud you have Jeff.
 

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Very good write up bird man. Thanks for sharing. :thumbsup:
 

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Nice Fix. Did you get the spreader bar installed with pics?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Nice Fix. Did you get the spreader bar installed with pics?
Well Danny, That's today. Actually, ahem, I had a slight problem. Even though the brackets are mirror image, when installed, the bar was closer to the fan on the pass side.:WTF
I wanted to ask Marck first . I don't know if the engine is not square, the frame is bent, or the pass shock tower is slightly ahead of the driver's.
Either way, I pulled the pass side bracket back off, and am having the two mounting holes slotted/milled 3/16" to adjust.
BTW, no one makes a 1/2" x 3/4" pilot fan spacer. I checked.:thud:
 

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Ahh, I remember an issue with that, seems the engine is offset so the fan shroud has to be too. I put a pair of 12" fans on a friends car and had to do dome adapting to get around it
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ahh, I remember an issue with that, seems the engine is offset so the fan shroud has to be too. I put a pair of 12" fans on a friends car and had to do dome adapting to get around it
I know the engine is offset, but should it not be square to the frame?
 

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If the centerlins of the engine is offset from the frame CL, then that means the fan CL is offset too, therefore the shroud has to be too
 

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Danny. The fan is not parallel to the bar. Capiche?
Ahhh, Now I see. Thats not right. I thought you had clearence issues with the bracket and shroud. Hmm, so your motor is not lined up in the frame right or something may be bent, that what yout thinking?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ahhh, Now I see. Thats not right. I thought you had clearence issues with the bracket and shroud. Hmm, so your motor is not lined up in the frame right or something may be bent, that what yout thinking?
10-4. Now we have the same page. The brackets are identical in dimensions. When installed, the spreader bar is closer to the fan on the pass side, and has more gap on the driver's side. I cn't tell if the engine is not square with the world/frame, or if one shock tower is more forward than the other. I will post a picture if/when this machinest calls/has the slots made.:thud:
 

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Wayne. Look at the top pic. The originals are hex head, but have splines. Mine are worn off. Might be hard to see.
Gotcha. At first look, they both looked like studs. Mine were flogged out when I removed them but new stock ones pulled up ok...
 

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Take a tape measure and measure both motor mounts on the frame, the difference between the measurements should be 2" (for a 1" offset) then crawl under the car and measure the trans crossmember and see if it also has the 1" offset there (2" diff in measurement), if not you have to start moving the trans tailstock over.

It is NOT uncommon for 1 susp. corner to be more forward than another, had that happen also on an 82 where I custom fabbed the spreader bar mounts. I made it to run close to the pulle and sure enough it rubbed, the car is a wreck free car yet there are some tolerances in the frame for sure.
 
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