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Discussion Starter #1
i have owned 1971 for 3 months from time to time i have blown the 30 amp fuse on drivers side fender

i am converting to eletric fans
will this mess with my touchy eletrical system
 

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Is that the fuse for the Hi Speed on the blower? You got something going on there. Installing the electric fans is no big trick, connect them to the back of the alternator for the Hot and you won't have a problem, provided your alternator is up to the job
 

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:agree:

I'd sure like to know what that 30A fuse is for, cure the problem with that, THEN install the electric fans. Keep the problem from becoming multiple problems without a good starting point..

:thumbsup:
 

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:agree:

I'd sure like to know what that 30A fuse is for, cure the problem with that, THEN install the electric fans. Keep the problem from becoming multiple problems without a good starting point..

:thumbsup:
Ditto................
 

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On my '72, the odds are for that pesky 30 amp fuse in that stupid white fuse holder, located just aft of the horn relay/power dist tie point on the drivers' fender liner, it's the high speed fuse going directly to the relay...the holder gets corrosion in there, heats the fuse ends, melts the solder in the fuse, fuse looks good, but it's not....fought this on many a GM car...MY cure for my '72 here was to skin the wire ends, and put under a 40 amp circuit breaker type fuse with screw terminals...you could wire in a 30 amp mini fuse, and be much better off with the attendant rubber holder, either one is fine....

but replaceing with another white factory type fuse holder has proven futile over time, for me...

go figger, must the the new one aint worth a damn....dunno....


I posted the above to another thread, and i'ts directly apply able to here also....

kinda surprised the above guys haven't noticed this before....but it's been on A, B,F, G, and Y body cars over the years....

now having said that, my buddy with a '68 Goat, has no high speed or much of ANY speed to his a/c blower, so it wasn't that fuse, as it was for ALL speeds....:crazy: :crazy: :surprised bashed pretty good on the relay, which was new, and no reaction...:crazy: :WTF but it was hotter then hell, and I wasn't loosing skin over it....
 

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Have you checked the AIM? I'm not sure there is a factory 30A fuse on the fender skirt. The horn relay/key buzzer is there and supplies most of the 12v power for the car.

:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
here are facts about car
not orginal fues holders plug style
new starter
fuse blew with old starter
heres my question what parts can pull 30 amps amd will not burn small wires
also most of the wiring looks like from factary
 

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Discussion Starter #10
no door buzzer and where is the voltage regulator
no air cond the blower is still there
also if fuse blowes no power to car any where
any of you guys live near lexington ky
 

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Here is a hint: what don't work when the fuse is out? Start looking into that. Could be as simple as to much stuff on a 30a fuse. Best way to figger it out is check the current on that line, will take a good amp meter to do it.
You might have headlights, fan, stereo, all kinda stuff on that fuse
 

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It sounds like someone installed a fuseholder to replace a fuse link on the starter. You have two main circuits: Battery power - headlites, horn, brake lites, lighter, etc and Key-on power: everything that turns on with the key. Both circuits use fuse links down on the starter. A fuse holder will never be able to handle the load of key-on power.
You will find three large hole terminals in the wiring harness to the starter. The terminal attached to a black wire does NOT go on the starter lug with the other two. This wire is the ground for the wiper and blower motors. It should be attached to a bell housing bolt.
Allthough a fuse holder will not work you must have some kind of circuit protection.
Hope this helps,
Mike
 

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It sounds like someone installed a fuseholder to replace a fuse link on the starter. You have two main circuits: Battery power - headlites, horn, brake lites, lighter, etc and Key-on power: everything that turns on with the key. Both circuits use fuse links down on the starter. A fuse holder will never be able to handle the load of key-on power.
You will find three large hole terminals in the wiring harness to the starter. The terminal attached to a black wire does NOT go on the starter lug with the other two. This wire is the ground for the wiper and blower motors. It should be attached to a bell housing bolt.
Allthough a fuse holder will not work you must have some kind of circuit protection.
Hope this helps,
Mike
Copying this for my notes.... :agree:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
lights off radio off air cond off door shut a everything off that could be turned off fuse still gets hot when key is on
ground wire to bell housing
what is the little metal box four wires beside master cylinder c it also gets hot
 

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Horn Relay, you may have found your problem. Does it click when you turn the key on?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
jacked up and crawled under and untaped wiring to starter someone has cut off orginal wiring about 8 inches off large wires butnot battery cable
and they spliced in new wire
respliced retaped still hot fuse holder when key is on
 

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here are facts about car
not orginal fues holders plug style
new starter
fuse blew with old starter
heres my question what parts can pull 30 amps amd will not burn small wires
also most of the wiring looks like from factary
I think you need a circuit tester, circuit diagram and/or shop manual to correctly diagnos this. It sounds like an electrical bubba's been in there. My .02.
 
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