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I took my time to measure them correctly, and he had the laser cutter do the rest lol. Yes they look great.
 

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Any regrets with POLY mounts??

Thanks lsejlowe for taking the time to post this step-by-step with pics.

I'm in the process of replacing my body mounts on my 1970 BB. (Actually I have alot of the frame to body patrs all ready disconnected for other reasons). Anyway, I don't have any of the rust issues as the mounts, cages, etc were replaced 4 years ago (not by me). Don't ask why i'm doing it again but they need to be redone.

I'm wanting to go with poly for the reasons others have stated. A little more forgiving than the alum spacers but not as mushy as the rubbers but more importantly the general consensus/opinions that they will hold up better than rubber.

Anyway, for those that went with Poly several years ago(specifically the Energy Suspension brand), any issues or regrets?

THANKS!
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Hey kmoore, welcome to DC!

no regrets for me on the poly, but I smashed up the body work on the car 4 years ago at the track. The car'ss been sitting for most of the time since then. Can't say I've noticed any degredation of the mounts in that time, but I haven't looked too closely. I'll try to remember to take a peek this evening to see how they look
 
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Great post, I`m glad to see this because the previous owner of my car gave me all new BM rubbers (he said a upgraded GM version). I will have to look at them though because they still have to be 20 years old and as cheap as the new ones are it would probably be worthwhile to get new ones. (?)
 

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with the body sitting loosely on the mounts I've noticed that the #1 and #4 bushings are not supporting any weight. The driver's door also doesn't line up with the striker as well as it used to. I attribute this to the body sagging and settling while the #3 and #7 mounts slowly disintegrated. Hopefully it will conform to the new mounts, but I may add a few additional shims to #4 to compensate a bit. I'm also hoping that I will have enough adjustment at the door hinges to get it to line up with the striker better. I'm open to suggestions if anyone thinks I'm crazy on this. :thumbsup:
Did the body ever conform to the new mounts or did you have to compensate by adding shims to #4 and #8 mounts? Can you buy open ended shims that allow you to add/subtract shims without removing the bolt? I have an 81 C3. On the passenger side the front door gap is wider at the top above the beauty line and the hood to fender gap is very tight just at that corner. At the back of the door the gap is even top to bottom. The door gaps and hood to fender gaps are even on the driver side. So I'm hoping to correct the gaps on the passenger side by adding shims to the #5 body mount. Do you think that will fix the problem? I don't know if I will have to unbolt all the stuff just to raise that #5 area 1/4" to shove some shims in it. I will eventually replace all the body mounts but this car is my daily driver so a quick fix will have to do for now. How are the procedures for replacing the body mounts on an 81 different from your 69? What product did you use to clean your mount areas before painting them with POR-15? Thanks for any help you can offer. I really enjoyed reading your thread.-Very well written with a couple of laughs thrown in.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Thanks for the kind words, glad this thread is helpful :cheers:

The rear door gap on my driver's side is still fairly inconsistent, so no I'd say the body hasn't done much conforming. It sounds to me like your issue is more related to front clip position than body mounts. Before messing with the mounts I'd unbolt the front end supports at the frame horns and use a floor jack to raise the right front corner a little bit to see if the door gap improves.

As for the POR prep, I just use elbow grease and sand paper. Once any loose bits are removed I use their "Metal Reay" phosphoric acid mix per instructions and then brush on the POR with the cheap foam brushes from Ace hardware.
 

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I am going to go the poly route also. Hopefully, sometime this year the body will be dropped back onto the frame!
I have been bombarded with a lot of work on my house, and this has taken away time from my main hobby-the vette.
Anyway, I was wondering since the ride height is raised about 1/4" will this cause any problems with other stuff, like the steering shaft?
Thx Ed
1970 Corvette Stingray
540 Big Block Chevy EFI
700 horse/650 TQ
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I didn't notice any issues with the steering column alignment, but as you can see in the earlier post my linkage isn't quite stock.
 
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