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Discussion Starter #1
I received all of my pre bent brake and fuel lines for my 75 coupe. I thought I might be able to snake them in but it looks like that will not happen. I have decided to lift the body about 4-6 inches and of course while I am there all new body mount cushions. I looked in the A.I.M. but it still doesn't answer all of my questions. It appears that some of the bolts that have nuts on them (I think the two front mounts or #1 and 5?). The rest of the bolts appear to just thread into the nuts that are caged is that correct? I have read that some people snapped off their caged nuts. If that happens are the cages/nuts replaceable? Do they have to be welded to the frame or are they just bolted into place? I am hoping that everything just comes apart. I have been soaking all of the mounts once or twice a day for about three days now. The right side mount behind the kick panel looks good but the left side was a little rusty. Doesn't look terrible like some pictures I've seen on the site here but I am concerned that I may run into trouble. The rest of the mounts look dry but the bolts don't look too bad. Also, the #4 and #8 bolts face upward and I can just barely see the ends of those bolts from behind the carpet all the way to the back of the interior. Are there any rubber mounts back there inside the car or are the rubber mounts on the bottom only.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well things are not going smoothly. In fact they are going very poorly. I started to loosen everything up today and it all went very badly. #1 on the right side broke off at the nut. No big deal I just knocked out the bolt with a punch. The #2, #3, and #4 on the right side all just keep spinning. I assume that these are the dreaded cage nuts that are broken loose? On the left side starting at the back the #4 is just spinning. The #3 might be be loose from the nut because it appears to be coming up. It might be spinning the nut or I might just have to persuade it up. Surprisingly the #2 might be okay on that side also. I haven't touched the #1 on the left because I might need someone to hold another wrench from the top but that one is no concern as you can get just cut it off if necessary and knock the bolt free. So where do I go from here?
1. Do I just cut all of the bolt heads off of the mounts that are just spinning with a grinder or recip saw and fix the cage nuts when the body is raised?
2. How are these cage nuts repaired? Do I have to buy a whole new cage and cut off the old one and weld on a new one?
3. Can the nuts in the cage be replaced without removing the cage? 4. What about the #4 cage? That one has me worried. I don't know if I could squeeze into the space behind the seats and replace that cage.
 

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You've been pimped!!
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Sorry to hear things are going poorly. I don't have much to offer in the way of advice here, but I am following this thread with interest since I know I will have to do this job eventually on the 77.

Good luck and stay calm.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What is the best tool to cut off the bolt heads in tight quarters such as the #2 and #3 bolt heads? I have a roto zip and I could put a steel cut off wheel on it but it might still be tough to get in close to the bolt.
 

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Dont worry too much about the number 4,s (the rear ones ). Their cage is just riveted to the fibreglass and if its spinning , just cut the head of the bolt off on the bottom and it should all just be able to be lifted out , or driven up with a punch .Thats what i had to do to get mine out.

As for the others , looks like cutting the head off them as well .

I have seen new cage and nuts for sale on one of the vendor sites so getting new units isnt so bad .

Just a matter of marking where the old ones were, which is pretty central over the hole in the chassis were the long bolts (that your fighting with ) protrudes into the frame when its all bolted down
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the help. I am going to move forward and just cut everything off. I am having a hard time visualizing the #4 cage mount. I have read that it can just be driven upwards but will this crack the fiberglass that it is riveted to? Is there any way to replace the cage at the #4 location? I was thinking of picking up an air grinder and a cut off wheel to get in to the tight spaces.
 

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I had the rear cage nuts spin on mine as well. I cut off the head and drilled out the rivets. This allows the steel mount to drop off the fiberglass. I recall it requires about 3 1/2" of clearance to get the old one out. You can then repair or replace as condition requires.

I replaced mine with new units and riveted them back in. Once disconnected from the frame it was pretty easy.

I can't offer advice on the forward units, mine all came loose with some penetrating oil and working the bolt back and forth.
 

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Teamo , if your going to get an air grinder youll find it almost impossible to get a wheel in there ,better off with a die grinder tool to get at the soft alloy rivet heads (whats left of them anyway)

If you number four bolt is spinning then the cage is already torn free of the glass anyway.It was held on with two rivets
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I saw some cheap air die grinders at Harbor Freight. I've never used one. Do they have a chuck like a drill to put different bits into? Is this similar to a roto zip tool? If my roto zip takes the same type of bits/attachments I might be able to use that.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks Darryl I like that nut splitter idea. I am going to go out and see if I can find one locally. That might save a lot of hassle trying to grind down the nuts/bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I didn't end up buying the nut splitter. I bought a cheap (Harbor Freight) 1/4" die grinder and some carbide tips to grind off the bolt heads. Will try to cut off the bolt heads tomorrow and see where I am at.
 

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If I am restating the obvious here forgive me.

Die grinder + carbide bits = tiny sharp hot metal fragments exiting the area at high speed. Safety glasses are required!!!

I wear regular glasses and figured that would work fine. NOT, it took two doctors half an hour to get the tiny hooked shaped shard out of my eye. Be safe.......
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I always wear safety glasses for every power tool that I use. I won't even make a cut with a circular saw on a piece of 2x4 without putting them on. I've seen too many accidents and it isn't worth the risk not to use them.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Powder coating looks good. I got one of the #3 bolts out without cutting. I started to grind off the head of the #4 bolt but the die grinder bits were crap quality. I'll have to go out and look around tomorrow for some metal grinding bits locally or I will have to find some online.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Couldn't find any die grinder bits locally. I used a dremel tool with a metal cutting wheel. Not the best tool for the job but it is small enough to get into the opening of the lower kick panel. I spent about an hour working on one of the #2 bolt heads. I went through about 4 discs and I have it mostly ground down. The #4's in the rear should be easier to grind and I might be able to use a full sized metal cut off wheel in my Roto Zip.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Progress has been slow but I am getting there. I got all of the bolt heads ground off on one side of the car and all of the mounts on the other side loose. Bought a couple of die grinder bits at Grainger. Some of the posts that I have seen have pictures of the rear bumper supports. Mine look different than the pictures. I removed 8 bolts and nuts from the frame extensions. There are 8 more that thread into the heavy steel inside part of the bumper but I removed the bolts that connect the short round frame extensions. Hope this is enough to release the rear bumper. There doesn't seem to be anything else in the way from what I can tell. I also loosened the steering coupler from the steering box. I sprayed the bolts for the steering box to get ready to remove them from the frame. After that I think the only thing left is the front bumper which I am still not sure of. Some posts that I have read say to remove the frame extensiions only and some look like you have to disassemble the whole front bumper cover and radiator support. I am trying to figure it out by looking at it but it is confusing. The A.I.M. doesn't help too much with what I have to remove.
 
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