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Discussion Starter #22
Thanks for the encouragement. I am going to go out and get some pictures of the rear bumper supports in the morning. I did buy some labeling tags at Staples and I have been putting parts into zip lock bags with tags. I did make the mistake of pulling off the brake proportioning valve today without labeling where the lines went to. Luckily there are diagrams in all of the catalogs that sell the parts but I do have to be more careful. Every time I get under the car I find more Bubba work from the past. I found a steel plate that the steering column goes through that looks like it should be attached to the firewall but it is just floating. It has a cable that goes to the transmission shift linkage and it (the cable) is not connected to anything underneath. Looks like it might be the shift lockout cable? I will have to find it in the A.I.M.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Here is the rear bumper frame extensions. There are 8 bolts on each side (4 on the bumper end and 4 on the frame end). I removed the bolts on the frame side. Hope this is enough to release it.
 

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Ah , i reckon i can picture were your going with your plan now , looks like your going to leave the bumper covers on and undo the steel bumpers and leave them inside those covers while you lift the body ? Are the covers blended in with the body ? as in all smoothed over at the joins ?

Just be aware those steel units are HEAVY ,thats a lot of weight to lift with the fibreglass body ,especially the nose . Never seen anybody do it that way .

But taking the covers off isnt that bad , i did my 77 and pretty much broke off every bolt with my socket spanner ,just made it quicker to get them off .

The back bumper is attached to the frame with a hydraulic shock absorber thingy , it goes back into the frame a fair way so your going to have to get the bolts at the bumper off if you want it to go straight up. i think theres a bolt holding the shock along the frame as well
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Ah , i reckon i can picture were your going with your plan now , looks like your going to leave the bumper covers on and undo the steel bumpers and leave them inside those covers while you lift the body ? Are the covers blended in with the body ? as in all smoothed over at the joins ?

No the covers are not blended in. I was planning on trying to do it with the covers on if possible but I don't want to damage anything so if need be I will remove what I have to.


The back bumper is attached to the frame with a hydraulic shock absorber thingy , it goes back into the frame a fair way so your going to have to get the bolts at the bumper off if you want it to go straight up. i think theres a bolt holding the shock along the frame as well


Ahhh that's what I needed to know. I didn't know that the bumper shocks went into the frame so it looks like I will have to remove the other 8 bolts that go to the back bumper. I do have a piece of wood and a jack stand uderneath the back bumper so that I can keep it from sagging. My plan was to lift the front the same way and use jack stands to keep the nose from sagging. While I was under the front I noticed a whole bunch of Bubbarization. From what I can tell it looks like there should be some lower spoiler(s) under the front bumper that are no longer there. Also there are some support brackets that are listed in the parts catalogs but they don't seem to sell them anymore. I have to research a little more to make sure I am looking at the correct pictures of the parts. The A.I.M. that I have is good but it is tough for me to figure out all of the stuff from the exploded parts diagrams.
 

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75 had a one piece black plastic spoiler that bolted along the back edge of the valance panel with a larger section in the middle that went up to the bottom of the radiator. Or it could have had a pace car type spoiler put on it .

With that back steel bumper , the four bolts go into a heavy threaded metal plate thats only "floating" there. If you have a look you will see two small pins coming through the bumper with a washer clipped onto them . They are the only thing holding that plate in line . If you have to use real force to get those bolts out i would clean up each bolt thread and put them back in tight until you get them all done . If it twists off you have to open the bumper to get it out .
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Removed the other 8 bolts on the bumper side of the frame shocks. One of the pins coming from the steel plate inside of the bumper had a spring nut on it. The other one was just floating so I put a pair of vise grips on it to hold it from slipping through the hole. Started soaking the front bumper bolts. Going to tackle that starting this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Trying to remove the front bumper cover but it isn't going too good. I am loosening up lots of bolts but nothing seems to be getting loose. I removed the lower valance panel first and broke off about 4 of the bolts. Doesn't look too bad because it looks like I can just drill out the rivets that hold the steel reinforcements to the fender and replace them. As far as the front cover itself it looks like there is a bunch of screws coming through from under the cover so that is what is giving me trouble. The parts diagrams show what I think is reinforcements like those found on the rear bumper with nuts holding the cover on but I don't seem to be able to feel the nuts on there. They are either rusted into something that is no longer resembling a nut or there was some more mickey mouse work by a prior owner. Also getting access to those nuts up near the top isn't going to be too easy.
 

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Trying to remove the front bumper cover but it isn't going too good. I am loosening up lots of bolts but nothing seems to be getting loose. I removed the lower valance panel first and broke off about 4 of the bolts. Doesn't look too bad because it looks like I can just drill out the rivets that hold the steel reinforcements to the fender and replace them. As far as the front cover itself it looks like there is a bunch of screws coming through from under the cover so that is what is giving me trouble. The parts diagrams show what I think is reinforcements like those found on the rear bumper with nuts holding the cover on but I don't seem to be able to feel the nuts on there. They are either rusted into something that is no longer resembling a nut or there was some more mickey mouse work by a prior owner. Also getting access to those nuts up near the top isn't going to be too easy.
Easier access to the bumper cover if you remove the headlight assys. first.:huh:
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Okay the bumper cover nuts look better than I thought. I was able to access a couple of them by just raising up the headlights about half way and getting a small socket in there. I'll have to check the A.I.M. and see how many of them there are. There is one that looks like it is going to give me some trouble. Looks like a fiberglass repair was done around the right side marker lights and one of the bolt heads may be buried behind the repair. Maybe a very thin cut off wheel on a dremel tool will do it if I can sneak the tool in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Here are a few pictures of the bumper cover that I finished removing last night. The pictures are a little dark so it might be hard to make out. It was tough getting up behind the cover and finding all of the small nuts that hold it on. I had to use several sockets and also a ratchet u joint to get to a few. I broke a few of them but I knew that would happen with all of the rust. Going to fix everything the right way when I put it all back together. There was some major Bubba work that I found. Front grilles and parking lamp on one side were bolted on with what looks like deck screws. What else do I have to remove to start the body lift. The thread that is in the tech section shows a lot of the steps but that is for an earlier car with steel bumpers. So far I have removed the fiberglass cover in the front and the two frame extensions that bolt to either side. Is that All I need to remover?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Here is a picture of the frame horn extension. There is one on each side. I disconnected four bolts from the bottom of the vacuum reservoir to the radiator core support. Hard for me to figure out what might be connected from the body to the frame on the front because there are so many parts to the front bumper. Is there anything that I am missing?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Yeah the swear words have already been coming pretty good with all of the rusted fasteners and the slipped wrenches. Plenty of groans from back and neck aches too. Thanks for the help. I am going to get this lift going in a few days when I have some spare time. I'll post back with pictures when I get it started.
 

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I would be of more help with the bumper attachments if you were working on an earlier C3, but I'm not as familiar with the plastic bumper cars...
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I started the body lift today. It lifted no problem. There was some slight groaning sounds as it released but no major cracking sounds or anything like that. Had to drop it back down and take apart the parking brake cable. I thought that there would be enough slack but no go. I cut a piece of 2x8 wood and used that to support the rocker channel and then I used a bottle jack to lift the wood. The only problem is that I have to figure out what to use to keep the body supported so that I can remove the 2x8 to get access to the frame from the side of the car instead of trying to work underneath. I was going to slide some short 4x4's in between the frame and the body but I can't fit them in from underneath. I don't want to go too high with the body because the mounts on the other side are loose and not yet removed. Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #38
So far I haven't seen a shim anywhere on the body mounts. The #4 on the right side has none and the #1 on the same side also doesn't look like it has any. As soon as I get access to the #2 and #3 I'll see if there are any shims at all. I tend to believe that this things has been off the frame in the past and the dimwit who did the work figured that a shim was a waste of time or something. How do I know how many shims to use if there are none to replicate?
 

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So far I haven't seen a shim anywhere on the body mounts. The #4 on the right side has none and the #1 on the same side also doesn't look like it has any. As soon as I get access to the #2 and #3 I'll see if there are any shims at all. I tend to believe that this things has been off the frame in the past and the dimwit who did the work figured that a shim was a waste of time or something. How do I know how many shims to use if there are none to replicate?
I am no expert by no means. I only did my own frame off on my '74. I had no rust on the frame that had to be fixed, but both rear mounts on the body had to be replaced. On my car some of the shims had turned almost to dust so I almost had to start from scratch like you are.

The shims are for setting up the gaps between the doors and rear quarter panels, the doors and front fenders, and hood gap at winsheild hood surround.

Set your body down and look at your gaps

REAR DOOR GAP:
If your rear door gap is tight at the top and big at the bottom, you need shims at the rear of your door (rear bird cage)

If your door gap is big at the top and tight at the bottom you need shims at the rear mount.

FRONT DOOR GAP:

If the gap is big at the top and tight at the bottom you need shim the mount at the radiator core support
If the gap is tight at the top and big at the bottom then you need shims at the front birdcage mount (front door gap)

Now if you added shims at the front door gap you might have to add the same amount of shimes at the rear cage mount (rear door gap) and rear mount to keep the rear door gap even. This is wear you have to be patent and it will turn out.

Now all you have to do is repeat this on the other side. remember no 2 Corvettes are the same, so some mounts will need no shims and one might need 5, thats how mine was.

Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Good info. I still have to order the body mount cushions and bolts. Looks like it will take some doing to get it just right.
 
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