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Discussion Starter #41
Making some good progress these past few weeks with the good weather that we have been having. I have been using the por 15 on the frame on one side that is raised up and also the cross members. I took all of the heavy rust off of the gas tank protector shell and gave it two coats of por 15 today. Time to start putting in the fuel line and the fuel return line. After that I can put on the body mount cushions and drop the body down. After that it is on to other side for more cleaning and painting fame rails, installing the new brake lines, and installing the fuel vapor return line View attachment 11994 . Winter is on the way so I am going to have to take some time to insulate the garage so that I can keep working right through until spring comes.
 

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Sounds and looks real good Teamo, dont worry too much on the shims as Walley fishers post is good info to follow ,i did the same with mine(77) as walley did with his .

You,ll be surprised just how easy it is :cheers:
 

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I don't post very often but in this case I need to thank you all for all of the information you've provided in this thread.

I'm going to be replacing mounts in the near future myself and this thread is just full of useful info to get the job done correctly.

Thanks to teamo for starting this thread and props to everyone else who contributed.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
I am back at it now that the weather is good. I haven't done any work since the beginning of winter when it got too cold. I had planned on insulating the garage and continuing my work on the car through the winter but my Brother who gave me this car got very sick. We lost him at the end of December and I wasn't sure I would ever feel like working on it again. I was motivated by sharing my progress with him and I would send him updated pictures every time I repaired something or got a new part. Well I am going to carry on because he gave me the car to restore and enjoy I know he would not want me to quit. So I started in this week and picked up where I left off. The body is still up on the right side and I just finished snaking in the new fuel lines on that side. It was tough to fish them up over the rear kick up area but I got it done. They are all clipped in with new clips and bolts. I had to remove the transmission cross member to feed the lines over the top of it. Can't see any other way to get them through with the factory reproduced bends in the lines. The manual trans guys don't have the luxury of removing the cross member so that is a challenge that I don't have to face. last fall I painted the right half of the frame with por 15. The trans cross member was very greasy and I thought that I had cleaned it well enough but I guess not. The por came right off so I am going to give it a good cleaning while it is out of the car and try again. I found a few of the clips that hold the positive battery cable inside of the trans tunnel had lost their nuts. Does anyone know what size these nuts are? I tried a 1/4 20 but it didn't fit. Next step is to put the new body mount cushions in on the right side and lower the body down. After that I will jack up the left side and remove the brake/vapor lines and paint the frame on that side. 053.jpg
 

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Progress slows in the Winter. I am really sorry for your loss. Cruising in the car his spirit will ride along. My FIL was the last person to drive the car I am doing now. Lots of emotions along the way. Wish he could see it now, if he were here I could ask him about things, etc..Call me whatever you like. First time it fires and can move under it's own power since 86' when it was parked, there's gonna be some tears. Your brother would be happy you continued. If I were closer I'd give you a hand. Keep at it.
 

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Progress slows in the Winter. I am really sorry for your loss. Cruising in the car his spirit will ride along. My FIL was the last person to drive the car I am doing now. Lots of emotions along the way. Wish he could see it now, if he were here I could ask him about things, etc..Call me whatever you like. First time it fires and can move under it's own power since 86' when it was parked, there's gonna be some tears. Your brother would be happy you continued. If I were closer I'd give you a hand. Keep at it.
:agree: well said.

Sorry for your loss.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I got some work done today. Put all of the new mounts in place on the side that I am working on. The body has shifted a little since it has been jacked up. Occasionally I have had to move it back down so that I could reposition the supports so I must have shifted when I was doing that. Not sure if it was on this forum or another one but I bought a Harbor Freight centering pry bar at another posters suggestion. It isn't perfect but I was able to move the body mostly into position. It isn't the final assembly anyway so when I am all done with all of the frame clean up and painting I will get it centered right over the locating holes. The number 2 and 3 bolts caught the cage nuts and threaded in so it is pretty close. I was unable to open the doors to get into the interior because the front gaps on the doors were really close with the car jacked up and I didn't want to damage the front edge. When I lowered the body back down the door gaps went back to where they were. I was able to go into the back and reach into the pocket where the number 4 cage nut was supposed to be. I previously cut the bolt heads off on both of the number 4 mounts because the bolt was just spinning. I assumed it was because the cage nuts had broken free from their rivets. Well it appears that this thing has been apart at some point prior to my Brother owning it because there were no cage nuts in there. Bubba just threaded on a nut and didn't even bother to use any washers. I am going to use a large neoprene washer and a large fender washer with a lock washer and grade 8 nut when I put them back. I would replace the cages but it is very hard to get back there into the pocket to rivet the new ones on and the outer reinforcements are in very good shape so I don't want to disturb them. Well it's on to the other side maybe tomorrow. I have all of the mount bolts out on that side already except for the #1 so that should only take a few minutes and I can start the jacking process. Here is a picture of the pry bar going into the alignment hole on the sill.
 

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There should not be any parts in the pockets inside the vette. The #4 nut should be located inside the cage that is under the vette. To get to the #4 nut you have to grind the rivets and remove the cage. You will see the nut between the body and the cage. It has probably rusted and is not square anymore. When they round off the cage no longer holds the nut secure.



:cheers:
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Glad you pointed that out about the #4 cage going between the reinforcement and the body. I ways thought that it was riveted inside of the body and the bolt went up and through the fiberglass under the reinforcement and threaded into the nut inside of the car. Wow that changes everything. I'll have to go and investigate the reinforcement and what it is going to take to remove those rivets. I have seen some methods used here on the forum (can't seem to find it on the search function) that uses a rubber washer/fender washer, etc. that I was going to do. If I decide to go that route does the washer and nut go inside of the car as I was planning or do I still need to remove the reinforcement? I'm not afraid to remove the reinforcement but I am concerned with re-riveting it back into place and having it as strong as the factory install. I have a rivet gun but it looks like the factory rivets were put on with a different install method. Are these factory rivets steel or aluminum? Are they hammered into place or is it done with a power/air tool?
 

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Discussion Starter #52
#4 body mount reinforcement

Continuing on with the frame clean up I found that the left #4 body mount reinforcement is rusted through. I hadn't noticed it before but I was under the rear of the body where the gas tank has been removed and I noticed the metal was all disintegrated. Just ordered a new #4 reinforcement, a new nut cage, and the factory rivets. My question is how do I install these rivets? I know they are supposed to be hammered/peened to fasten them. I would guess that I just have someone hold a piece of flat steel over the head from the inside and hammer the rivet shaft that protrudes through the reinforcement until it is flat?
 

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I know they are supposed to be hammered/peened to fasten them. I would guess that I just have someone hold a piece of flat steel over the head from the inside and hammer the rivet shaft that protrudes through the reinforcement until it is flat?
You are very close in your assumptions. Use something heavy on the inside, a body dolly works or a 4 lb hammer. Hammer the rivet shaft... yes, but you don't have to beat it until it's flat. Hit it as close to square on the end as you can and peen it enough to swell the rivet next to the mount larger than the hole.

Best of luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Okay looks doable. Once the parts get here I will begin cutting away the old reinforcement. There is one rivet in the rear that is buried behind the fiberglass that is part of the rear fender. Not sure if that is a factory install or they put some fiberglass reinforcement there due to previous accident damage. I think I will be able to slide a small blade between the fiberglass and the rivet and cut it away but I am not sure how to reinstall the new rivet.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Got the left side #4 reinforcement riveted on today. Used the correct [COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue !important]aluminum rivets[/COLOR][/COLOR], a cheap air chisel from Harbor Freight, and a riveting bit from an aircraft tool supply company. The bit was only $12.00 including shipping. I riveted a new cage nut in and then I had a family member operate the gun while I crawled inside and held a small steel maul against the heads. It was a little tough to get the rivets through and lined up so I used a punch in one of the adjacent holes to pull the reinforcement into alignment. The other reinforcement on the right side is in pretty good shape so I am not going to remove it. If I was doing that side then I would also put in a new cage nut. The cage on that side is missing so I will use a large neoprene washer and a steel washer inside to spread the load of the nut out. If anyone is contemplating doing this job I would say don't be afraid of it. I was worried that it wouldn't come out right but other than a little pain crawling around in the tight space in the cargo area it was worth doing right.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Haven't posted much progress lately. I'm still plugging along. The rear suspension is all removed and I started cleaning and painting all of the parts. Here is most of the rear suspension primed with Eastwood 2k Epoxy Primer. Hopefully I'll have everything top coated by the end of the week and I can start rebuilding the bearings and pressing in the bushings.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Haven't done much work on the car lately. It's been a very hot summer and I was laid up with a back strain for over a month. I finally finished the spare tire tub. It came out pretty good. I had to repair some holes in the fiberglass and this was my first time doing any glass work. It didn't come out perfect but it's not terrible either. If it was somewhere that was more visible I would have used some body filler to really smooth it out after the glass work. I cleaned up the heavy rust on the steel v-frame and put two coats of POR-15 on it, followed by a coat of silver paint. I really liked the gloss black finish of the POR-15 but I didn't want any issues later without a top coat on it. I had to mask it off at the end and hit it with the silver paint again because the rivet bucking process scratched off some of the paint.
 

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Those painted parts look good , its hard not to scratch stuff even being really careful I know. Looks like you took the re-enforcement from the back of the storage compartment as well for painting. I did the same even though no-one will see it .

Hope you get better soon .:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Thanks, yes I painted the reinforcement so that it won't rust out again Hopefully. Getting ready to rivet that in after I repair the rotted out fiberglass battery box. Most of the bottom of the battery box is cracked with large chunks of the fiberglass missing. I went under the car this morning and taped some wax paper over the bottom of the box to give the fiberglass something to form to. I am going to do a few layers on top and then go underneath and remove the wax paper and do the glass work on the bottom. I'll post pictures when I get started later this week.
 

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Yeah thats one thing when doing up these cars , you put your metal working hat on , then your painting mask on , then the fibreglassing mask on . Then go around and do them all again. Thats what makes them fun to do, not so much that you get bored or sick of it.......usually :laughing: :thumbsup: Usually while the glass is curing you can go on with something else, otherwise they take forever to finish.

Eventually you get to a stage where everything is cleaned up and just needs to be put back on.Thats the best time .:thumbsup:
 
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