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Discussion Starter #1
Assistance PLEASE! First time at this.

Put new right rear caliper on my 82 (engine off) pumping the pedal with bleeder open is not working, caliper not filling and nothing comes out the bleeder. I pack it in for the day and start the engine. Pedal goes to floor, brake light on, indicating air in system.

Question. Did I need the engine running and the power assist operating to be able to bleed the line and fill the caliper? What am I doing wrong here?

I need some help here.
Thanks,
George
 

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A few years ago the rear brake lines (the rubber ones) on my 68 were so old one had swollen up and didn't even flow. Funny thing was the car stopped fine, I only noticed it when I tried to bleed the brakes. I put SS flexible brake lines front and rear. I always use a vacuum bleeder.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. I have no lack of pedal pushers. Tomorrow I'll try it with the engine running and the power assist. Perhaps that'll do it. Yeh, the car stopped fine but the calipers were relics and need to be retired. Lines appear to be good:lookinup:
Thanks
G
 

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Pumping the pedal with the bleeder screw open will only cause more air to be sucked into the line. You either need a second person to help you or you need to get a "one man" bleeder kit.

If you get someone to help you, have them pump the pedal a few times and then hold it down while you open the screw. Have them continue to hold the pedal down until you tighten the screw. Then repeat it until all air is out of the line. Make sure the master cylinder stays full or you'll suck air from that end too.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Ponch. Thats exactally what I was doing, pumping the pedal with the line open. Ok then. Ill do it the way you say. I want to get it right before I do the right rear caliper, hopefully tomorrow!
G
 

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you NEED a helper to pump the pedal and have them do it nice and slow...or buy a set of Speed Bleeders to make it a one man job...an empty caliper can take quite a bit of fluid so keep checking your MC so you don`t empty it.
redvetracr
 

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Discussion Starter #8
SMYDA / REDVETRCR

Thanks for the info. No place does it say how much the caliper holds. I'm guessing my assistant will have to pump the pedal and we'll follow the process at least a few times to get the new caliper filled ????

If I lose my help, speed bleeders will definitely be the way to go.

Anyway, I'll follow the tips for the LR. Once I ger that squared away, I'll install the RR and start all over again. :thud:

Thanks again,
G:thumbsup:
 

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I full well know some guys will have a cow over this advice...but it works...

first off, just replace all the rubber hoses...ALL of them they get restrictive over years, and don't allow release of caliper pistons....don't ask...please....

second off, and so I"M lazy, so what?? cheeeep too....

just drill a small hole in top of eachsection of the m/cyl cover, fill it up to overflowing, clamp cover on as per normal, gasket all compressed and all...
take compressed air, and GENTLY blast it into the small hole with the associated caliper open...this pressureizes the system forcing fluid to the caliper......refill m/cyl and repeat untill fluid comes out bleeders....
do this for all 4, rr/lr/rf/lf in sequence, you U got it....

fluid on all 4, no special crap gear, nothing to buy...

take some RTV to the cleaned up top and seal the holes....just a dap...

works fine, case closed....

another lazy way, when you got nuttin to do but mow the lawn or summfin...
open the bleeders in question, leave the top off the m/cyl, keep it filled, and let nature/gravity do it's work....done that too....also works fine....

I know the 2 person pumping/bleeding sequence is what 'normally' is called for....but, honestly I think it sux, especially on C3 calipers....
 

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this reminds me of an episode of american hotrod, there was that knucklehead boyd stomping the brake pedal like he was kicking a mule, and some other numbskull Dan (I think) was looking at his bleeder wodnering why nothing happened LOL.

You can slip on a hose and emerge it in fresh fluid, that will get the bubbles out but air won't get back in.
 

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Get a motive bleeder, if you only did one caliper you're going to need it again.
Replace the rubber hose.
Check rotor runout-correct if over .003"
Check bearing endplay _ rebuild if over .003"
Use a jar with clean fluid in it, put hose on the bleeder to the bottle of the jar.
Pump the bleeder to 10 psi watch the gauge. If it doesn't move good - go bleed th brakes. If it moves there is a leak to correct.
 

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A few tips before the bleeding begins

There are many excellent and accurate suggestions throughout this thread. I use most of these methods when I bleed my Vettes brakes. I have back bled them where I pumped fluid from the caliper into the master cylinder, I have vacuumed them at the caliper and I used the 2 man pedel pumping method and I have still had difficulty getting a solid pedel. Vette brake lines have a few apex's in them where air gets trapped. Even vacuuming and pumping them can leave these bubbles in tact unless you get enough fluid volume running through the lines to force them out. I have found a few things that may help make the job a little eaiser. Before opening any lines pinch the rubber brake line so air cannot get too far into the lines and raise the area of the car your working on as high as you can so the air that does get in the lines will flow towards the caliper your working on and not further into the line toward the master cylinder. One other obvious thing that should be done to a new master cylinder prior to installing it is that it needs to be bench bled. Its alot harder to get the air out of the master cylinder once its on the car. Bleeding brakes on a Vette is not as easy as some other cars, I'm not sure exactly why but thats been my experience. Oh yea, make sure your master cylinder cap is on if you pressure bleed your brakes, if not you will pump fluid about 10 feet into the air all over your car, ceiling and whatever else is close by. These words of wisdom are from personal experience.:thud: Good luck and enjoy yourself while your working on your Vette. :partyon:
 

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Oh yea, make sure your master cylinder cap is on if you pressure bleed your brakes, if not you will pump fluid about 10 feet into the air all over your car, ceiling and whatever else is close by. These words of wisdom are from personal experience.:thud:

OH yea man.....don't ask....:crazy: :WTF :cheers:
 

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"NOTE"
Do not spill, drop, drip or in any way let the brake fluid get on your paint. That stuff will take paint off better than any paint remover you've ever used. I know from experience. And no, that will not ever happen to me again!

Dave :spanked:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks to all.

Great tips, all in my file.

I finally gave up I returned this unbleedable RR caliper. There was plenty of fluid flow through line, no doubt about it! (messy) and the LR install & bleed went easily, right according to what everyone said.

I'm picking up another RR today and expect the whole process to go as easily as it did on the left. No reason why it shouldn't. (counting chickens? :crazy: )

Great help. Thanks again for all my lessons learned.
George :thumbsup:
 

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After caliper rebuilds it is difficult to get the fluid going (at least for me). What helps things along tremendiously is using the Mitivac vacumn bleeder. It pulls the fluid. I don't like to do the full job with it, I'll then use the Motive bleeder. Bad thing about the vacumn bleeder is the potential to suck air thru the caliper seals - which is why I finish the job with the Motive.
 

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Get a motive bleeder, if you only did one caliper you're going to need it again.
Replace the rubber hose.
Check rotor runout-correct if over .003"
Check bearing endplay _ rebuild if over .003"
Use a jar with clean fluid in it, put hose on the bleeder to the bottle of the jar.
Pump the bleeder to 10 psi watch the gauge. If it doesn't move good - go bleed th brakes. If it moves there is a leak to correct.
:agree: Great toy.
 

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Hwy George when I replased the caliper I got some SEED BLEEDERS that made it a one man job Google that name and you can do it by yourself.. They work great... It has a small valve that lets the fluid out when you push the break pedal then shuts off when you releade it to keep air from getting back in.. Hope that theis helps the pair cost me about $qo bucks for 2 of them you can get them at any car parts store..

Dan
 
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