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Discussion Starter #1
I'm hoping this will be the last step of work so I can get this girl on the road. But, I have - almost poetically - hit a road block.

About two months ago my brakes froze up while parked while I was working on the engine. To unfreeze them, I cut the metal brake line on the right rear wheel.

Since then I have replaced the metal line, the hose (on both sides) the right rear caliper and now the master-cylinder.

Now, as I attempt to bleed the lines, I get nothing.

Have my assistant pump a few times and then hold to the floor. Crack the bleeder screw and watch the fluid level in the cylinder - easy enough, it doesn't move.

I'm getting no results, and all I want is to be done with these brakes so I can drive.

What am I doing wrong?

Thanks All,
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hmmn, have never heard of that before. Learn something new every day. This would explain why the old MC didn't work, seeing as ALL of the fluid had been drained, none was left in the MC.

I'll give this a try and report back. Other tips and suggestions are welcome also! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Manual Brakes.
How can I tell if it has bleeders on it?
It's rebuilt.
 

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Since you have manual brakes it won't have bleeders. There is a problem with the rear piston on the rebuilt master cylinders. This could be your problem. I suggest you get a new master cylinder. If you can't locate one locally I can supply you with one. There's a few tricks to bleeding the system without a pressure bleeder. I'll walk you thru it when you're ready.
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Shouldn't I bench bleed the MC before I assume it's bad?

I just picked it up today. It's "remanufactured." I assume the same as rebuilt?
 

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bench bleed it and after you put it on the car open the bleeders and get a beer,let it sit for a while,should start coming fluid..
 

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Yes you always need to bench bleed the master first. Rebuilt, remanufactured, same thing.
Mike

Mike,

Can you just pressure bleed on the car instead of bench bleeding the MC?

Paul
 

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Paul,
The problem is you will have an air pocket in the master. If you jack up the rear so that the master is pointing downhill the air will be able to pass back into the resevoir. Fill the master first before installing the pressure bleeder and then crack the lines open to release the air. Tighten the lines and open the bleeders.
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The problem was the pumping. If you bench-bleed the master cylinder and you hook it to dry lines... you simply suck in air when pumping. Duh. So... it was, push the pedal in, close off the outlet, release the pedal, open the outlet and pump in... repeat. Took some time, but I got the brakes bled.



Now, these brake pads are another story. It seems they're permanently engaged. Why?
 

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Paul,
The problem is you will have an air pocket in the master. If you jack up the rear so that the master is pointing downhill the air will be able to pass back into the resevoir. Fill the master first before installing the pressure bleeder and then crack the lines open to release the air. Tighten the lines and open the bleeders.
Mike
Gotcha. Thanks.
 

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The problem was the pumping. If you bench-bleed the master cylinder and you hook it to dry lines... you simply suck in air when pumping. Duh. So... it was, push the pedal in, close off the outlet, release the pedal, open the outlet and pump in... repeat. Took some time, but I got the brakes bled.



Now, these brake pads are another story. It seems they're permanently engaged. Why?
Pedal adjustment not enabling full release.
Collapsed hose/s
Bad calipers
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Replaced the caliper in question.
Replaced all hoses.

How do I check the pedal? Even then, the brakes worked fine until I cut the brake line.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Seems too complicated... This has to be something a bit more basic...

Seeing as both the original caliper and the new one are doing the same thing.
 
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