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I recently had my friend put in a rear ebrake cable for me, since the existing one was cut. After putting it in, we tested it, but it didn't do much. It seems to me that the rear brakes aren't working. My friend said the brakes may be frozen, my question you guys is what would that mean and entail.
 

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The Park brake and the regular brakes are completely seperate systems. So which ones don't work? The park brake is pretty marginal without some work. The shoes inside the rear rotors have to be adjusted forst, then the cable.
For the rear brakes, look into bleeding them. If that doesn't fix it, New rubber hoses and caliper kits.
 

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I thought the parking brake utilized the rear brakes. I doubt this will allow me to pass inspection, there is tension, but it won't keep the car stopped. Is this normal? Can I get it improved any? I appreciate your help Sixfooter
 

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I thought the parking brake utilized the rear brakes. I doubt this will allow me to pass inspection, there is tension, but it won't keep the car stopped. Is this normal? Can I get it improved any? I appreciate your help Sixfooter
The parking brake system on the C2 (from 1985) and C3 utilized a pair of shoes inside the rotor hat. In that regard, the parking brake system does use the rear brakes, but it doesn't use the caliper or the hydraulic system. The parking brake cable actuates the shoes in a purely mechanical fashion.

So the first thing you have to establish is whether or not your parking brake shoes are actually moving against the rotor hat when you pull the cable. Jack up the car and rotate the rear wheel. Then apply the parking brake, and see if its working at all. As Sixfooter says, it takes a lot of effort to get this system properly adjusted.

If you find that the parking brake system is not up to snuff, then you need to pull the rotors and rebuild the system. Here's a link that covers the basics of this inspection and repair.

http://rowleycorvette.com/corvette_repair.html

You can also verify that your hydraulic brake system is working (at least at some level) by pressing the brake pedal seeing if it prevents the rear wheel from moving (have your buddy turn it while you relax and press the brake pedal!). If the caliper is stuck, then you get to either rebuild it or replace it (and the other one's) with stainless steel sleeved units (at least that's what I'd recommend).

Good Luck!

Steven
 

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Here you go, a nice newly rebuilt one. Well actually I did this one for a guy a year or two ago- but it's new here!



Here is one before rebuilding to show the shoes better.

 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys, that link really helps, as does that picture. I think I am going to have to rebuild it then. I have to get in new lug studs, as a couple are broken, and figured i'd do a brake overhaul while i was at it. I'll keep you updated with any other questions i have :D
 

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We have to assume the t-arms and spindles, and calipers are in decent shape and so to fix the ebrake.....first off, that system is marginal at best it will slo the car slightly, but on any serious incline will not hold it...period...no matter what....some guys have to cheat like hell, around the corner from the test station, tighten hell outta the cable, then drive a block or two with the shoes dragging, pass the 'test' then go round the corner again and release the shoes from dragging.....and YES, it's THAT bad.....

now to rebuild them to even that point, you do NOT USE STAINLESS SHOES use the iron stockish replacements, the SPRING KIT however should be stainless, it includes all the little levers in there also .....they are very hard to do and some really stiff wire hooks are handy as well as long nose pliars and whatever you need to get those springs out through the holes in the wheel flanges....it's not easy, but doo able...much nicer to pop the thing apart, but that involves a press and the whole t-arm outta the car...another PIA ball of wax....

so fight it the easy way, just time consuming and have a few beers unless you are an angry drunk.....

:D :devil: :devil:
 

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Gene,
I'll disagree on using SS shoes. I have used them years ago and they weren't machined too good. The past 2 years I went back to them and they are fine, at least the ones I use are. where I have to make adjustments is in the SS kits, I face off the star wheels a bit to compress the shoes more. I found some sets of wheels hold the shoes open too much when fully compressed and they rub on the disk ID.

Here are the SS shoes I stock and use vs original steel shoes








 

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A reputable Corvette shop I used to buy parts from in CT recommended using the SS e brakes. Just my 2 cents.
 

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Gary, I certainly can't go against you, as I have just my experience and it's really dated as of 12 years ago....

the really great Tony' Corvette shop, in G'burg Md. back then did the entire rear rebuild, new t-arms, whole thing, but used stainless shoes and kit...the shoes were one of the earlier sets installed there, and so both sides had to be changed to steel shoes, which cured the problem....

NOW, I have an automatic, and so live in Florida where the tallest hill is called Mt. Dora I climbed Mt. Dora once....


all of 30' elevation....serious as Rowbuck....

so I don't use the Ebrake....

:smack :WTF :cheers:
 

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Gene, no problem. I did have issue with the earlier shoes. There may still be some issue with some of them as they are probably all imported now anyway.
The ones I have- so far- have been good.
 

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Gene, no problem. I did have issue with the earlier shoes. There may still be some issue with some of them as they are probably all imported now anyway.
The ones I have- so far- have been good.
The thing that's frustrating about it is, having to tear that POS apart and redo it all over again don't matter what shituation, just hate doing that....:devil: :devil: :spanked: :cheers:
 
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