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What is a good thief device or alarm for a c3. the car has power window and locks. Looking to deter and or prevent a detemined thief.
 

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Two hidden kill switches that have to be hit in proper order with the ignition ON, and the car interior lights lit......I did just such a thing in a '70 Lemans/GTO convertible I had some years ago....I never lock my cars, especially a convertible....never leave anything in them to steal, or be prepared to consider it gone...

the device I built ran off relays, easy enuff to do if you know electricals...

it involved starter interrupt and ignition + feed when there was a carb on it, when I put DPFI on it, I of course killed the power to the computer....

same thing on my vette now, really....I use a remote controll to activate the computer, car goes no where with just a key....
 

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Two hidden kill switches that have to be hit in proper order with the ignition ON, and the car interior lights lit......I did just such a thing in a '70 Lemans/GTO convertible I had some years ago....I never lock my cars, especially a convertible....never leave anything in them to steal, or be prepared to consider it gone...

the device I built ran off relays, easy enuff to do if you know electricals...

it involved starter interrupt and ignition + feed when there was a carb on it, when I put DPFI on it, I of course killed the power to the computer....

same thing on my vette now, really....I use a remote controll to activate the computer, car goes no where with just a key....
That is a cool idea bro. :thumbsup:



I was just designing this very thing for my '77 F100 and the Vettes. The only way they can still steal it is by loading it on a flatbed which has become a very popular theft method lately!:spanked:

I am working on a steering lock concept (down at the box/pitman area).

You want to share your circuits? :D

I was going to first put a solonoid on the battery positive controled by a hidden switch (like an airplane) and put a battery isolation knife switch in the battery box. Thirdly, put a relay on the ignition circuit with another relay controling a solonoid valve on the fuel line. Still in the design stages .... :huh:

I figure if they see the knife switch, they will think they are home free and when it doesn't show battery life after closing the knife switch they will give up.
 

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:devil: I have mine insured for double:devil:
 

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That is a cool idea bro. :thumbsup:



I was just designing this very thing for my '77 F100 and the Vettes. The only way they can still steal it is by loading it on a flatbed which has become a very popular theft method lately!:spanked:

I am working on a steering lock concept (down at the box/pitman area).

You want to share your circuits? :D

I was going to first put a solonoid on the battery positive controled by a hidden switch (like an airplane) and put a battery isolation knife switch in the battery box. Thirdly, put a relay on the ignition circuit with another relay controling a solonoid valve on the fuel line. Still in the design stages .... :huh:

I figure if they see the knife switch, they will think they are home free and when it doesn't show battery life after closing the knife switch they will give up.
All I have is a VERY crude hand drawn schematic I drew up one day 20 years ago....and I THINK it may be around....but the material list is really simple....

two momentary close pushbuttons...open up again when released.....

ONE SPST relay 12 volts, this coil goes across the interior light switches.....

TWO DPDT relays......the first one gets it's coil voltage from the switched ingniton voltage passed through the contacts of the relay to the door lights...this way the lights have to be on as well as the ignition on.....AND its also runs through your momentary button #1.......

that enables the coil to energise....what keeps it energised is ONE set of it's own contacts wired to ignition voltage directly....the other contact set runs the ignition coil.....so we now have energy to the first relay coil all the time, and power to the ignition....now for the starter.....from the start circuit feeding the solenoid, we take to a contact set on the second DPDT relay....
the normally open contact goes to the starter.....the second relay COIL if fed off the ignition ckt, BUT passes through the second momentary push button....and that button is bypassed/paralled with the second set of contacts on that relay to keep it self energised.....

I"Ts about as clear as I can say it.....an would require some electrical knowledge to understand/wire it......

SO if you push the more obvious second pushbutton, and it does nothing, for there is no power to the second DPDT relay.....they forgetaboutit.....

BUT youhave the first button up under your seat where you can reach easy....and quickly....without tapping that first button IN CORRECT SEQWUENCE nothing latches....

but two things have to be ON before tapping any button....interior lights, and ignition sw.....tap one button for latching the ignition relay...then the second to enable starter to work.....then crank/drive normally....

I used a self latching relay and a garage door opener circuit card with proper hand unit for the vette, all hidden and in the computer circuit....

and the wires to my install are NOT color coded....and improper colors for any GM wiring....figger THAT out bitch....
 

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All I have is a VERY crude hand drawn schematic I drew up one day 20 years ago....and I THINK it may be around....but the material list is really simple....

two momentary close pushbuttons...open up again when released.....

ONE SPST relay 12 volts, this coil goes across the interior light switches.....

TWO DPDT relays......the first one gets it's coil voltage from the switched ingniton voltage passed through the contacts of the relay to the door lights...this way the lights have to be on as well as the ignition on.....AND its also runs through your momentary button #1.......

that enables the coil to energise....what keeps it energised is ONE set of it's own contacts wired to ignition voltage directly....the other contact set runs the ignition coil.....so we now have energy to the first relay coil all the time, and power to the ignition....now for the starter.....from the start circuit feeding the solenoid, we take to a contact set on the second DPDT relay....
the normally open contact goes to the starter.....the second relay COIL if fed off the ignition ckt, BUT passes through the second momentary push button....and that button is bypassed/paralled with the second set of contacts on that relay to keep it self energised.....

I"Ts about as clear as I can say it.....an would require some electrical knowledge to understand/wire it......

SO if you push the more obvious second pushbutton, and it does nothing, for there is no power to the second DPDT relay.....they forgetaboutit.....

BUT youhave the first button up under your seat where you can reach easy....and quickly....without tapping that first button IN CORRECT SEQWUENCE nothing latches....

but two things have to be ON before tapping any button....interior lights, and ignition sw.....tap one button for latching the ignition relay...then the second to enable starter to work.....then crank/drive normally....

I used a self latching relay and a garage door opener circuit card with proper hand unit for the vette, all hidden and in the computer circuit....

and the wires to my install are NOT color coded....and improper colors for any GM wiring....figger THAT out bitch....
:laughing:

Cool, I have done a LOT of eletrical circuits, used to be one of my speciaties:thumbsup:

I will work throught your explanation and work it up! Thanks! :cheers:
 

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I have no experiance with alarms whatsoever, but I have heard of one that is rigged to go off if someone even reaches in the t-tops. Anyone else heard of it?
 

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All I have is a VERY crude hand drawn schematic I drew up one day 20 years ago....and I THINK it may be around....but the material list is really simple....

two momentary close pushbuttons...open up again when released.....

ONE SPST relay 12 volts, this coil goes across the interior light switches.....

TWO DPDT relays......the first one gets it's coil voltage from the switched ingniton voltage passed through the contacts of the relay to the door lights...this way the lights have to be on as well as the ignition on.....AND its also runs through your momentary button #1.......

that enables the coil to energise....what keeps it energised is ONE set of it's own contacts wired to ignition voltage directly....the other contact set runs the ignition coil.....so we now have energy to the first relay coil all the time, and power to the ignition....now for the starter.....from the start circuit feeding the solenoid, we take to a contact set on the second DPDT relay....
the normally open contact goes to the starter.....the second relay COIL if fed off the ignition ckt, BUT passes through the second momentary push button....and that button is bypassed/paralled with the second set of contacts on that relay to keep it self energised.....

I"Ts about as clear as I can say it.....an would require some electrical knowledge to understand/wire it......

SO if you push the more obvious second pushbutton, and it does nothing, for there is no power to the second DPDT relay.....they forgetaboutit.....

BUT youhave the first button up under your seat where you can reach easy....and quickly....without tapping that first button IN CORRECT SEQWUENCE nothing latches....

but two things have to be ON before tapping any button....interior lights, and ignition sw.....tap one button for latching the ignition relay...then the second to enable starter to work.....then crank/drive normally....

I used a self latching relay and a garage door opener circuit card with proper hand unit for the vette, all hidden and in the computer circuit....

and the wires to my install are NOT color coded....and improper colors for any GM wiring....figger THAT out bitch....
Nice system:

Say I come along after having discussed this with some pro theives that are a lot smarter at this than me and:

Get into your car, a must in all circumstances.
Bring a jumper 12 guage wire and clip it to the alternator pos. post or horn relay junction, with the other end to the coil or hei bat terminal.
Reach down with a screwriver etc to jumper the solenoid/battery terminals on the starter while operating the carb linkage by hand.

And me and the car are gone in less than 2 minutes
I'm slow :D

Personally I like the the battery cable and fuel solenoids that rjent suggested. It might slow them down a bit longer:laughing:
 

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That is right, it is just a matter of making it more trouble than it is worth for the thief. I think we need to think of mechanical means of deterrent like steering and is my point with:

I am working on a steering lock concept (down at the box/pitman area).
If I can turn the wheels all the way to one side or the other and place a mechanical "block" to keep the wheels from straighting out, it just makes it harder to take, particularly being dead dragged onto a flat bed. I just lost two parts cars by a "team" (I think) of snakes that literally draged the cars down an alley, across a paved street to a vacant lot and dragged them up on a flatbed trailer. People actually saw them do it and thought I had finally sold some of my junk! :rolleyes:
 

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:devil: I have mine insured for double:devil:
Probably the absolute BEST idea. A professional thief can steal ANY car out there. Best bet is heavy insurance and don't park where a thief has easy access and limited visibilty. How many times have you been in a parking lot and heard car alarms going off??? Ever see anyone rush over to investigate what is going on? Most people just ignore them or laugh at them.
Alarms and tricky gizmos may help give you peace of mind, but they are nothing more than a minor inconvenience to a pro.


Dep
 

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Well, my attitude is...to make it easy enuff on ME, and somewhat harder on them.....your steering lock is a good concept, but time/rust/wear/ and your own safety come into mind when/if it ever fails.....

like you said I could jumper out my own system on roadside real easy....but your mechanical system have a problem....and you may well be wrenching, and with MY luck it would be on a hot date in a thunderstorm....whatever UN opportune scenario you think of.....murphy and all that....

NOTHING beats a hook either....

OR a chop shop....but if anyone ever spots a burgundy BB hood with a Mako shark on it, with stars flying.....OR a set of '68 Olds 88 tail lights in a vette rear panel....you lemme KNOW.....

because I would know MY vette was no longer in the freeking place I left it....


see site for details....
 

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:devil: I have mine insured for double:devil:

My initial thoughts on this approach are
1) It would take alot more than double to compensate me for all the sweat equity I have in my vettes.
2) If I did insure for an amount that I would feel comfortable with, I would just be rationalizing in my mind giving my money to a different type of thief......the insurance company!
3) Even if I got compensation, I would still not have "my" Vette, no matter what.

I personally do not buy into the premise that if a pro wants your car, you may as well hand it over to him. I believe one can make it so difficult that the thief will not risk it. Gene was on the right track. With FI, It is a simple matter to incorporate a system that automatically configures the ECU to render the engine inoperable.....period! The ECU can also be mounted in such a manner that if anyone try's to physically force access, it would destroy the harness which would be cheap, but very time consuming to fix.
Now for those pro's that would tow your car, how about a very small and hidden Cell phone/ GPS system that would notify you, or anyone you designate, of tamper or movement. Not hard at all to do with today's technology. For those of you that think that all you have to do is jam the GPS signal....even if some how you happen to know it existed, don't forget that Cell phones can be precisely located also. Just by incorporating something along these lines, I bet you have already eliminated 99.9% of the thieves, pro or otherwise. Ok, I know some of you are thinking "what's this guy smoking, because how does the average Joe get something like this. Ask yourself what your car is really worth to you and could I replace it with something else, add the additional money you were going to pay for double or triple insurance and hire it done.


Bullshark
 

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If you have a 4speed car, unplug the clutch safety switch....or install a toggle switch into that circuit.....
,,,,redvetracr
 

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My initial thoughts on this approach are
1) It would take alot more than double to compensate me for all the sweat equity I have in my vettes.
2) If I did insure for an amount that I would feel comfortable with, I would just be rationalizing in my mind giving my money to a different type of thief......the insurance company!
3) Even if I got compensation, I would still not have "my" Vette, no matter what.

I personally do not buy into the premise that if a pro wants your car, you may as well hand it over to him. I believe one can make it so difficult that the thief will not risk it. Gene was on the right track. With FI, It is a simple matter to incorporate a system that automatically configures the ECU to render the engine inoperable.....period! The ECU can also be mounted in such a manner that if anyone try's to physically force access, it would destroy the harness which would be cheap, but very time consuming to fix.
Now for those pro's that would tow your car, how about a very small and hidden Cell phone/ GPS system that would notify you, or anyone you designate, of tamper or movement. Not hard at all to do with today's technology. For those of you that think that all you have to do is jam the GPS signal....even if some how you happen to know it existed, don't forget that Cell phones can be precisely located also. Just by incorporating something along these lines, I bet you have already eliminated 99.9% of the thieves, pro or otherwise. Ok, I know some of you are thinking "what's this guy smoking, because how does the average Joe get something like this. Ask yourself what your car is really worth to you and could I replace it with something else, add the additional money you were going to pay for double or triple insurance and hire it done.


Bullshark
In a very non-confrontational tone of voice......"I think your opinion of the insurance company as a thief, is a little on the anti-establishment liberal side."

Everyone hates the insurance company until it is time to collect. If want to lower your insurance rates, help rid the country of all of the illegals that drive with no lisence or insurance that have no liability for rammin into your car. Geez, now I sound like a right wing extremist..........

I agree with your point that if you make it hard for the thief, he may move on to another car. However, I think this applies much more strongly to everyday cars like minivans, civics, accords and Mustangs. If you have a nice beautifully restored, modded, custom, etc. Vette, and someone wants it, they will take it. Our cars are in a special niche.

Such an alarm exists. It has a key fob the size of my kitchen sink that tells you of any disturbance in regards to your car, but if you are in the middle of a shopping mall and it takes you 5 minutes to get back to your car, it will be gone.

If you know that GPS and cell phones are trackable via sattelite, so does the thief.

Maybe the best theft deterent is to have navigation your car??????????
 

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In a very non-confrontational tone of voice......"I think your opinion of the insurance company as a thief, is a little on the anti-establishment liberal side."

Everyone hates the insurance company until it is time to collect. If want to lower your insurance rates, help rid the country of all of the illegals that drive with no lisence or insurance that have no liability for rammin into your car. Geez, now I sound like a right wing extremist..........

I agree with your point that if you make it hard for the thief, he may move on to another car. However, I think this applies much more strongly to everyday cars like minivans, civics, accords and Mustangs. If you have a nice beautifully restored, modded, custom, etc. Vette, and someone wants it, they will take it. Our cars are in a special niche.

Such an alarm exists. It has a key fob the size of my kitchen sink that tells you of any disturbance in regards to your car, but if you are in the middle of a shopping mall and it takes you 5 minutes to get back to your car, it will be gone.

If you know that GPS and cell phones are trackable via sattelite, so does the thief.

Maybe the best theft deterent is to have navigation your car??????????
Stingin, no confrontation taken:thumbsup:, Maybe I was a little hard on them, calling them thieves , but I have been paying auto insurance for over 40 years and have paid into the system many many times over what I ever got out of them. And, when I did get something out of them, It usually resulted in a surcharge that made it a mute point. I try to take advantage of every discount I can and still pay multi-$k in premiums per year.

I agree, anti-theft systems can and should go along way towards lowering insurance rates.....maybe the technology for screening illegals is a little down the road, but don't look around to much, big brother is right behind you.:laughing:

Also in a non-confrontational tone, take another look around, it can be done much smaller than your kitchen sink,.....more like the size of its faucet handle with no key fob.

The key is, I don't care if the thief knows GPS / cell phones are trackable if there is nothing he can do about it. Also, I haven't even touched the potential of transmitting digital images. The point is, You just have to want to keep your car more than the thief wants to put work/risk into getting it. It can be done with today technology and affordable.

Peace:cheers:

Bullshark


P.S. Your the first person I know who has referred to me as liberal since I graduated from college back in my hippie days:rolling:
 

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P.S. Your the first person I know who has referred to me as liberal since I graduated from college back in my hippie days
:rolling:

Well handled guys! :thumbsup:
 

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this here pedal lock is what i use, granted it won'y protect yer vette from the flatbed but they're not gonna drive off w/it at least for a couple hours then they're gonna need the services of a chiropractor cuz it's very uncomfortable n cramped down there. the pedal lock for the automatics which i have would really be a beetch to get off. don't know why they went out of business though
 

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Nice system:

Say I come along after having discussed this with some pro theives that are a lot smarter at this than me and:

Get into your car, a must in all circumstances.
Bring a jumper 12 guage wire and clip it to the alternator pos. post or horn relay junction, with the other end to the coil or hei bat terminal.
Reach down with a screwriver etc to jumper the solenoid/battery terminals on the starter while operating the carb linkage by hand.

And me and the car are gone in less than 2 minutes
I'm slow :D

Personally I like the the battery cable and fuel solenoids that rjent suggested. It might slow them down a bit longer:laughing:


OK , I thought of a fix for YOUR trick too.....take a heavy diode across the normally closed contact of the starter controll relay....and put it going to ground in the forward bias position....so if the relay is NOT energized...the diode shunts all power applied to the starter solenoid COIL to ground as if a dead short.....

watch THAT flash mr. car theif.com.....
 

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Geez...guys...when you talk PROFESSIONAL thief, they have already THOUGHT of all these dandy ideas and have already figured out the workarounds. It's their PROFESSION...it's how they make a living. If a pro wants your car you won't even know it's GONE until you walk out to the parking lot or go out to the garage. That's WHY they are PROS. They are NOT gonna drive it away. They will either flatbed or use a dolly and tow it away.
Lojak works, but even that has workarounds. The speed with which pros can disassemble a car is dowright amazing. And the PARTS are worth more than the car in most cases. Cell-phones, GPS....both can be jammed with the proper equipment.
 

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anyone thought of a co2 canister that releases it's contents unbeknown to the theif unless deactivated!

imagine returning to your vette to find a potenial theif put to sleep and unconcious.... just waiting to be dropped down a mine shaft somewhere:laughing:

a lil extreme maybe:thumbsup:
 
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