[turtlevette]

, but I look at this pic and wonder how much that inside wheel camber is hurting your grip. I realize most of the weight is on that outside tire, but the patch on the inside seems smaller than it should be. How much initial camber do you have dialed in?

its very common to see fast cars pull a wheel off the ground. Track cars dial in a crapload of initial camber.

i doubt anyone here can help him very much as he has more go fast goodies than anybody that i know of here or on CF.

How much track experience do you have 4takt ?

I was gonna say the car looks very european then i see you are from Norway.

I'd like to see some picts of your engine compartment. I have a rodeck block i'm going to try and build but mine is going to be more like a Caprice motor.

 

[racervette69]

tires are a mans best friend,,,

 

[73-84 IMSA W]

A shot of my Greenwood 5 link set up. I have seen them available though I don't remember where, I do know a Dentist in New Mexico who bought one for his car last year if you want more info. I also have no comparison between it and the Guldstrand but the car stays very "flat" on curves. As said before Marck/TwinTurbo is probably the person to speak with for recommendations, he has a whole link set up for suspensions.

 

[TwinTurbo]

That's not a greenwood 5 link, that's a greenwood adjustable double a arm setup. The 5 link is a toe controlled double foward rod equipped virtual swing arm system. But, something like that double arm suspension IS your best solution but also the most complicated. A 5 link is so much more "bolt in" than this.

I built my own double arm setup after tossing the 5 link I built. Here's mine:

As for the 5 link systems, IMO the greenwood system is a tad better because of how the toe control rods are placed but considering packaging (especially on pre 80 cars w/ the steel diff crossmember and the additonal crossmember on the frame) the guldstrand kit is hard to beat and a whole lot better than the stock system when it comes to toe control and some other aspects. Camber control is the same, depending solely on the center bracket and the condition (play) of your stub axles/posi clutch system

 

[73-84 IMSA W]

Ya...what he said. I should have said a modified Greenwood 5 link. After crashing in 77 due to a rear suspension failure and a stuck throttle linkage, what was a 5 link was rebuilt to the current configuration by the engineer who built and raced the car.
Marck yours is a true double A arm, do you still consider the seperate lower arms on mine as a double? I probably need to call you sometime to get edumacated.
Thanks Marck.

 

[TwinTurbo]

Your lower arm is basically the same principle as mine. A "camber" rod connecting it to the differential and a diagonal front rod running to the pinion area, these 2 rods (whereas mine is not a rod but sort of a big arm that clamps around the bearing carrier) make the A arm so YES, yours too is a double a arm setup.

The major difference is that yours has a toe control setting on the top arm, I purposely didn't do that for mine since I didn't want to cut up the frame too much to make room for the wider part on the top of the bearing carrier. The toe on mine is set by the individual settings on the 2 lower rods ends one each side of the bearing carrier. It is more work (removing 2 bolts and supporting the weight of the car whilst pulling the arm down and rotating the 2 rod ends) but it does take less space.

The way the coil overs are mounted is also very similar between yours and mine.

 

[lsejlowe]

hmm, I'm affraid this will end up in a huge hijack of this thread, but I've got a couple questions about your setup.

1. how do you adjust your alignment? There dont appear to be any sort of cam bolts, and you obviously can't turn those A-arms like you would a strut rod. Or is it a trade secret?

2. Without telescoping 1/2 shafts, did you just remove the c-clip?

looks like a helluva setup, and I'm sure you've thought it all through pretty carefully.

 

[TwinTurbo]

the upper and lower arms have rod ends at each end (the lowers have 2 outboard and 1 inboard, the 2 outboard ones control toe by their settings relative to each other and in combination with the diagonal strut which can change toe and the wheels position in the wheel well/caster) turning those adjusts camber, toe, caster..the works. It's just like shimming the front a arms.

Cam bolts are a big no, as they upset the position of the a arms relative to the pinion brackets, adjustments are made on the arm itself.

the clips are removed but it's temporary, still have to get some of those telescopic shafts but haven't worked on my car in months.

 

[73-84 IMSA W]

FYI, I understand that Pantera half shafts are very similar to mine.

 

[lsejlowe]

It is more work (removing 2 bolts and supporting the weight of the car whilst pulling the arm down and rotating the 2 rod ends) but it does take less space.

gotcha, that's what I was wondering.

 

[roscobbc]

I would really like to know how to get my '68 coupe down to 2700/2800 lbs or because its a BB perhaps realisticly 3000/3200 lbs without removing complete interior?

 

[redvetracr]

I would really like to know how to get my '68 coupe down to 2700/2800 lbs or because its a BB perhaps realisticly 3000/3200 lbs without removing complete interior?

all it takes is money...lots and lots of it.

 

[4takt]

A lot to be answered here I am overwhelmed. I have studied Marks Impressive work. I am not sure if I dare to modify the frame to a certain extent, but on the other hand I want to go faster... Mark can you send a pm on how to get some detailed drawings of your system, and if anyone has it i would be appreciated to get some details about the Greenvood 5-Link. It's a picture of it on their website. They used it on two of their street Daytonas.

Some of the half shafts are similar looking to the front drive shaft of my 99 Surburban 4x4.

The Rear inside camber is due to a bad day at the office. Somtimes it seems like they are moving the turns around (they are ocationally getting closer/sharper)

I think I read somewhere that the Owings-Corning cars had hand layed light weight bodies, is that a fact? Impessisive Vette you have there redvetracr!
I also studied the FIA historic paperwork on the ZL1 powered 69's. According to the paper the ZL1 cars could weigh in at 1226 kg with (tools and spares)? 2700 lbs with BB??:crazy:

I have raced the corvette since 2002 prior to that i have 20 years of sporty street driving. I bought a 69 BB Camaro back in 81 believe it or not it has never been wrecked.

This car would be dangerous to drive on Northsleife we call it "Ringen" A friend of mine wrecked his 928 GT down there this summer I think he had to pay 8000 Euro for the damage to the guard rail alone in addition to towing, closing down the track for a while, storage of the wreck etc etc...

To solid: I fortunately do not own a well, but I have a Patient Wife and Four kids. A few $ have been spent, and it helps to own a well equipped Machine/Engine shop, with both Engine and Chassis dyno.

I will get some pictures of the engine compartment. The picture belowe is from a car show. Alu Pieces have been replaced with carbonfiber since then

http://www.moldestuket.com/gatebilmessen13.jpg

Note ! did anyne know the body weight and what could be saved ?

 

[turtlevette]

I will get some pictures of the engine compartment. The picture belowe is from a car show. Alu Pieces have been replaced with carbonfiber since then

http://www.moldestuket.com/gatebilmessen13.jpg

Note ! did anyne know the body weight and what could be saved ?

What i'm after is how the dry sump pump fits down there at the crossmember. Did you have to cut it to make room?

I've always wondered if the body pieces could be taken off and the inside (back) sanded with 80 grit to make them thinner. That's probably the cheapest option for lightened body work.

 

[roscobbc]

all it takes is money...lots and lots of it.

Yeah, I know. Its taken me three years to get all my bits together for a 496 build-up. Wanted 8V (Kinsler) individual runner injection - that will have to wait - body lightening - that will also have to wait - hope I won't be too old to appreciate or get legislated off the road!

 

[turtlevette]

all it takes is money...lots and lots of it.

i bet i could put something together without breaking the bank. I just won't bang my head against the wall trying to make a race car out of a C3 when i can get an open wheel car for less.

 

[TimAT]

i bet i could put something together without breaking the bank. I just won't bang my head against the wall trying to make a race car out of a C3 when i can get an open wheel car for less.

Here you go turtle-- open wheel. and they have used cars too. Even the new ones are not that bad, considering.

http://www.arielmotor.co.uk/

:cheers:

 

[4takt]

Turtlevette: I've been in the garage the photos will be ready tomorrow. Note I have the Verdi pump mounted on the right hand side "you probably knew" like the Trans Am Cars. I hade to make a notch in the frame. The pump is made in Sweden, and gives much better crankcase vacum than the rest...

Funny looking Atom by the way!

 

[roscobbc]

Here you go turtle-- open wheel. and they have used cars too. Even the new ones are not that bad, considering.

http://www.arielmotor.co.uk/

:cheers:

Hey TimAT, thats' open wheeled, open cockpit, open body, open chassis, open everything, open your mouth and get it filled with flies! - the only qualification required is to be open minded about it all!

 

[redvetracr]

Turtlevette: I've been in the garage the photos will be ready tomorrow. Note I have the Verdi pump mounted on the right hand side "you probably knew" like the Trans Am Cars. I hade to make a notch in the frame. The pump is made in Sweden, and gives much better crankcase vacum than the rest...

Funny looking Atom by the way!

it may be an old pic but with that breather on the valve cover you are defeating the purpose of a hi vacuum oil pump....the valve covers should be sealed and only the tank should be vented.
redvetracr