Corvette Forum : DigitalCorvettes.com Corvette Forums banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just bought my first Vete, an '88 Anniversary with 80K miles. The interior is in need of a lot of help. Most plastic parts are cracked at the mounting screws and the inner door panels are lose and flapping. The car rattles like it's comming apart on a good bump. Maybe the previous owner tried to quiet it down by over tightening the interior trip screws? Is this normal?

I need to find a good picture of how the inner door panels and all the associated trim parts are supposed to mount. Not sure if I can salvage all or part of them. Someone must have encountered this before...any help would be appreciated.

John
Hudson, OH
 

·
DC PIT CREW BOSS
Joined
·
39,520 Posts
I can't help with a C4 interior but welcome to digitalcorvettes. We've got a few here that should be able to help you but they are late sleepers
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,627 Posts
Welcome to the forum.

You need to pull off the door panels and check the condition of the back of them. I had one that was rattling bad and when I took it off found that it was damaged at the top where it mounted. Fiberglassed it and put it back on. Ok now. You can buy all the small plastic parts at Ecklers or Mid America, not cheap tho. I'm sure someone else will chime in here with more info.

:)
 

·
DC Crew
Joined
·
53,220 Posts
brock71 said:
I just bought my first Vete, an '88 Anniversary with 80K miles. The interior is in need of a lot of help. Most plastic parts are cracked at the mounting screws and the inner door panels are lose and flapping. The car rattles like it's comming apart on a good bump. Maybe the previous owner tried to quiet it down by over tightening the interior trip screws? Is this normal?

I need to find a good picture of how the inner door panels and all the associated trim parts are supposed to mount. Not sure if I can salvage all or part of them. Someone must have encountered this before...any help would be appreciated.

John
Hudson, OH
An 88 should not have door panels that are loose and flapping... or rattling likes it's coming apart.

Did it have an aftermarket stereo or something?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,956 Posts
I would remove the panel and check the aluminum frame behind the panel, a lot of times the 7 or 10mm bolts work loose after the years and that is what you are hearing. Like stated above, many of the parts are in catalogs or online for the dash abd console, but you can also try ebay for new old stock (NOS).

One other thing that I have noticed when buying C4's is that owners use all types of mis matched screws when something comes loose. I also buy a complete interior screw kit and replace them all with the proper screws.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,653 Posts
I have a 1984,and when i bought it ,it too had the same problem with the screws.The person who had before me overtighten the screws and cracked a lot of the hardware.Went to mid america,and to corvette centeral.There you can find just about all your needs to restore.I have no rattles in mine,even with the Z-51 package.This makes it ride a lot harder,but the handeling makes up for it.I allso had a dim display on my dash,but this was due to low voltage.I replaced my alternator,and the problem seamed to corect it self.Yes led,s due have a habit of burning out,and has a previ. post rebuilds on dash,or replacement,are easy to get.Replacment would be the way to go if you are planing to keep for awhile.Hope that this helps,and welcome to the crew.:cheers: :thumbsup: :buhbye:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Well, I took apart the left side inner door panel. Found the plastic backing on the panel was rather severely cracked in about 10 places with pieces missing along the edge at the top that hangs it on the door. I think I have fixed it rather nicely using gap filing super glue on the cracks first then using fiberglass cloth and soaking it with the thin super glue to strengthen the cracked areas and reform a top edge. This method (super glue instead of resin) is a good one I learned building R/C airplane wings. It isn't as messy as resin and it's fast. Get some super glue accelerator to really speed it up.


Now I notice the power windor is not coming up properly. It gets near the top of travel then the rear of the window stops short while the front continues up normally. The rear can be grabbed and pulled up. Seems to be a problem with the track or mechanism. Is there a common fix for this? Any idea what I'm looking for?

Also the removable top seems to be making a lot of noise over bumps. Kind of a loud slap, not a squeek. Is there an adjustment
for this?

John
 

·
DC Crew
Joined
·
53,220 Posts
brock71 said:
Also the removable top seems to be making a lot of noise over bumps. Kind of a loud slap, not a squeek. Is there an adjustment
for this?

John
A slap?! Are you sure it's completely bolted in?! :surprised

There are two bolts in the front, and two in the rear. The front are verticle, the rear are horizontal.
 

·
DC Crew
Joined
·
32,974 Posts



Now I notice the power windor is not coming up properly. It gets near the top of travel then the rear of the window stops short while the front continues up normally. The rear can be grabbed and pulled up. Seems to be a problem with the track or mechanism. Is there a common fix for this? Any idea what I'm looking for?

Also the removable top seems to be making a lot of noise over bumps. Kind of a loud slap, not a squeek. Is there an adjustment
for this?

John [/B]


My window does the same thing. There is an adjustment for it but it's a PITA to do. I did it on my pass. window and it's still not right.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top