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Discussion Starter #1
Gentlemen (and ladies of course),

I am new to Corvettes. I have been a speed nut for years though. I recently picked up a 2000 Coupe with an automatic. The dealer said you can "light up the tires" with the traction control off. Guess what.. You can't...

He now says it "may" be able to. A local Chevy dealer can't/won't give an answer.

Is the motor down on power??

The million dollar question.. Should it be able to light them up?

Thanks in advance.

Vinnie
 

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First of all WELCOME to Digital! I think you will enjoy any time spent here, there are many resorceful and some downright wackies that frequent this place. Go ahead and impose your personality on us!

Second, I don't know if there is a straight answer to your question.
My current car only has about 3500 miles on it. It WILL not light em from a dead stop, competitive driving or not. If I start to rolla a bit with the trans in 3, and then stand on it the tires make noise but will not smoke.
My son had an 00 coupe that had pistons and rings done at 12k. That car was insane, competitve or not, stand on it and the tires broke loose, freely.
My original C5 was a 98 coupe that I had use a Hypetech "tuner" on. With the hypertech AND a Blackwing air "filter" that car would spin the tires in competitve. That car was getting stronger just before I got rid of it to buy my new one.

How many miles on yours? What tires are on it?

Oh yeah, real important....all of the cars I have had or have had 3:15 rear end. What does yours have? If you have the 2:73, that may a problem.

Good Luck!
Jim
 

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Welcome to the forum and hope your Vette is smoking the competition instead of the tires.
I think it may be the gear ratio if you have a 273 rear end. I have a 2003 auto/coupe with the optional 315 ratio, and it will definitly smoke the stock runflats ,from a dead stop and in drive. But traction control has to be disarmed. With traction control armed, it will barely break the tires loose. Check to see if your traction control reads disengaged in the driver info center after pushing the button. Hope this info helps. Let us know if you find the problem. Good luck to you.:thumbsup:
 

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Maybe I'm wrong here but the way I read the manual with the car in Competetive Driving, traction control is off but active handling is still active.
 

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aloha,
i have a 99 with 38,000 miles.minor mods.my whole problem is i can't get any traction.even stock with brand new run-craps would smoke-um.if i'm driving about 30 mph and hammer it,the tires will chirp big time on the down shift.at the track,i have to launch at idle and baby the throttle until i'm passing the tree,then i can hammer it.thats alot of wasted time right there.i do the decarbonation procedure every 6 months.these cars can build major carbon in less than 10,000 miles.i suspected my car was a little slow when i first got it,got a scanner,checked WOT,and the timing was at 16.5*,should be about 28.after de-carb,was like a different car.but it would still smoke-um before the de-carb.auto's also have torque managment,hence the slow shifts.now that i think about it,i never have tried to smoke-um in"d".i always pull it down into 1st.oh,i have stock trans,stock convertor and 3:15 gears.next time,try it in first gear,and hit the pedal hard and to the floor,i can't imagine them not spinning.:smokin:
 
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Vinnie,

Welcome to the DC crew.

If you cannot spin the tires with the traction control off by mashing the go pedal then you have a 2.73 rear end. That gear has zero low end punch. If you have the optional performance rear end which is a 3.15 then you should be able to spin the tires without a problem.
 

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BIG LAW MAN said:
Vinnie,

Welcome to the DC crew.

If you cannot spin the tires with the traction control off by mashing the go pedal then you have a 2.73 rear end. That gear has zero low end punch. If you have the optional performance rear end which is a 3.15 then you should be able to spin the tires without a problem.
:agree:

Thie rear-end should be listed in your RPO codes that's located on the driver door. Don't have the exact RPO code but I'm certain someone could post them.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys

Gentlemen,

Thanks for the responses. I am not sure what the ratio is. I gotta bet it is the 2:73s. Would explain a bunch.

Still a great car to drive. Will rip and you can hear it squeal in 2nd gear. Sad thing, I have a need for speed. Can expect changes down the road.

Great place to post!!

Vinnie
 

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"my name is Fastbasser,and i'm a mod-aholic.":smokin:
 

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stilcrazee said:
Maybe I'm wrong here but the way I read the manual with the car in Competetive Driving, traction control is off but active handling is still active.
That is correct. My wife had a 2000 Auto vert with the standard axle ratio. No way would it light up the tires without first power braking. :D
 

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wow,i never rode in another C5,there must be a pretty good difference between 2:73 and 3:15s.that was one of the options i was looking for,the coolest option is the stereo antena in the windshield,no hole in the car.if i had a 'pole' antena i would chop it off ....:smokin:
 

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G92 is the option code for the 3.15 axle. You could still probably load-up the drive-line by running in a little throttle while holding the brake... then floor it when you let off the brake... if your goal is to burn off some rubber.

C5 is very good at moving it's power to the pavement, good weight distribution and lots of rubber.

You can get the programs tweeked for more performance too, but the existing programs try to optimize the car's performance to the way its driven. In other words, drive it hard and it will start making more power.

A higher number in the axle is a very good bang-for-your-buck mod, as well as getting lots of cold air to the engine.
 

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Re: Thanks guys

Fastbasser said:
Gentlemen,

Thanks for the responses. I am not sure what the ratio is. I gotta bet it is the 2:73s. Would explain a bunch.

Still a great car to drive. Will rip and you can hear it squeal in 2nd gear. Sad thing, I have a need for speed. Can expect changes down the road.

Great place to post!!

Vinnie
Stick your head under the rear of the car and look at the cover plate on the differential. There will be a green sticker with black letters giving the gear ratio.

Here is a photo:


Mine says 3.42-P. The "P" stands for Positraction, Chevy's tradename for a limited-slip differential.

G92 is the RPO for the 3.07:1 Performance Axle Ratio. The sticker listing RPOs in on the inside of the glove box lid.



If that sticker doesn't say G92, and you have an automatic trans, you have the 2.73:1 ring and pinion set.

As a last resort, jack up the rear, put a chalk mark on the bottom of the drive shaft, and a chalk mark at the 12 o'clock position on either rear tire. With the transmission in neutral and the emergency brake off (chock the front wheels first there, Vinnie) rotate the rear wheels by hand. Get some moron (er, friend, neighbor, ex-wife) to get under the car and count the revolutions of the drive shaft as you count the revolutions of the rear wheels (that's what those chalk marks are for). 1 revolution of the rear wheels should give you 2.73 revolutions of the driveshaft.

BTW, that's how Chevrolet will determine if you have an aftermarket ring and pinion should bad things happen to the drivetrain under warranty.

Ray
 

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Deluxe said:
...In other words, drive it hard and it will start making more power...
Sorry, but that's totally inaccurate. It falls into the same category as "Take it out on the interstate and floor it to blow away the carbon deposits". Good excuse to drive fast but totally unsupported by the facts.

The mappings in the ECM that are "learned" over time actually apply to the grade and quality of the fuel you use. Did you know your 1991-2004 Corvette will run on 87 octane gasoline? It will, because the ECM will (at startup) increase the ignition timing until the knock sensors (there are two of them, in the block) sense detonation. The amount of advance indicated at the time detonation is detected determines the octane rating of the fuel and the ECM then makes a note of that in its memory and those notes are called "mappings". Mappings tell the system what levels of spark advance can be supported by the fuel. When you disconnect the battery the ECM "forgets" these mappings and must "relearn" them all over again. This may lead to some rough engine operation until the "learning" process is completed.

I put the word learn in quotation marks because it is actually a misnomer. Computers are stupid (much like Ahhhnold) and don't learn anything: They remember things very well as long as you have non-volatile memory or a disk drive. Computers can literally only do three things: add, subtract, and move data from one place to another. They can't multiply (to multiply 6 times 7 they add 7 six times), they can't divide (to divide 42 by 6 they subtract 6 until the remainder is zero, the number of times they had to subtract is the quotient). They compare things by subtracting one from the other: if there is a zero sum the two quantities are equal, if there is not a zero sum they are unequal.

So driving the car hard will definitely put a SEG on your face, but it won't cause the car to "make more power".

Funny story: I was using 110 octane racing fuel when I was autocrossing (completely unnecessary but what the hell?). The system did its usual boot-up diagnostics, advanced the timing until it had reached full advance, didn't get a message from either knock sensor, so it assumed the knock sensors were bad (because it assumed that 94 octane fuel, available in the Great White North, was as high an octane rating as would be used on the street) and set a code. Fortunately there were some savvy autocrossers who had experienced this same phenomenon and suffered through knock sensor replacement (not as bad as a colonoscopy but you get the point) only to have the code get set again. Chevy finally fixed the problem (changed a couple of lines of assembly code in the EEPROM for the ECM) and now you can merrily run 110 ocatane fuel and the ECM will just record in its mappings that knock from spark advance is not an issue with this fuel. It detects failed knock sensors using a different technique. When all of the 110 octane fuel is gone the system then relearns the octane level and changes the mappings accordingly. It actually does this gradually as 91 octane is added to the tank and the average octane begins to decrease.

Ray
 

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Patrick96LT4 said:
Ray, any real performance advantages to the 110 octane? :huh:
Not worth $6.95 per gallon. You get some extra leeway with the spark advance but unless you have a different cam shaft, less restrictive exhaust, and improved breathing you can't use the total amount of extra advance that the fuel allows. The higher octane just means it has more resistance to engine knock (detonation, which can literally break a con-rod).

Ray
 

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Re: Thanks guys

Fastbasser said:
Gentlemen,

Thanks for the responses. I am not sure what the ratio is. I gotta bet it is the 2:73s. Would explain a bunch.

Still a great car to drive. Will rip and you can hear it squeal in 2nd gear. Sad thing, I have a need for speed. Can expect changes down the road.

Great place to post!!

Vinnie
You can stick your head under the car and there should be a sticker on the rear cover that will have the gear ratio #. Mine has it up high on the rear end cover. Also, you can check by cruising at 75mph with the car in drive, not overdrive. Look at your rpm. If it is around 2700 then you have 273 gears, if it is around 3100 then you have 315 gears. It may be 70mph but I'm not sure but I know you have to be in third gear. It worked out for me. Don't know if the same is true for a manual tranni. There is also a special code on your glove box sticker that would tell you if the 315 rear was in the car. I'll have to take a pic and post it.
 

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RT66Z06... Thanks Ray, that's some great info
 

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I gots the 2:73 rear gear. //with automatic. she will bark them out of drive with traction off... will not smoke them. unless powerbrake , how much does this gear 3:11 - 410 ect. cost to change out ? and does it hurt the top end speed much:smokin:
 
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