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Discussion Starter #1
This goes out to all of the Body Shop / Paint guys out there.
I think it's safe to say that the paint on my 04 is a Base Coat / Clear Coat simular to DuPont ChromaColor BC/CC ?

Reason I ask is, I removed the BSM's on my coupe. Passenger side looks perfect, Driver side not so good. Seems that at one time the original owner had some work done to the door and the shop who did it, did not remove the moulding before spraying. I now have a ghost outline/built up ridge of paint & clear where the moulding was. What I had plan on doing was wetsanding ( Oh BTW, I build, repair and restore guitars so I know all about spraying, wetsanding and buffing) starting with a 600 grit paper up to and including 2500 grit to remove the ridge and blend everything together, spray several coats of clear in the center of the door to build up the low spot, let it harden up and dry, wetsand the entire door and buff it out.

IMO this would be the logical approach but I'd like to hear from the Professionals on this !
 

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This goes out to all of the Body Shop / Paint guys out there.
I think it's safe to say that the paint on my 04 is a Base Coat / Clear Coat simular to DuPont ChromaColor BC/CC ?

Reason I ask is, I removed the BSM's on my coupe. Passenger side looks perfect, Driver side not so good. Seems that at one time the original owner had some work done to the door and the shop who did it, did not remove the moulding before spraying. I now have a ghost outline/built up ridge of paint & clear where the moulding was. What I had plan on doing was wetsanding ( Oh BTW, I build, repair and restore guitars so I know all about spraying, wetsanding and buffing) starting with a 600 grit paper up to and including 2500 grit to remove the ridge and blend everything together, spray several coats of clear in the center of the door to build up the low spot, let it harden up and dry, wetsand the entire door and buff it out.

IMO this would be the logical approach but I'd like to hear from the Professionals on this !
I had the exact same problem with my C5. They left the molding on when they sprayed the car I ended up getting it painted becaus the paint under the molding didntmatch the paint on the rest of the door heres my post click link below. Also junkman is a body detailing god. look on youtube for his scratch removal videos. It couldnt hurt to sand it first either way it needs to be done if you repaint. I learned how to repaint because of a rear bumper I made. Paintings is not hard at all or expensive. You being hady with guitars can figure it out, i learned how to do it from you tube.

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=128136
 

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If it were me I would remove the mirror, top window seal, door handle and wetsand the entire door and re-clear the whole thing. If you attempt to blend in the clear you could run into problems later with detecting it. You should be fine re-clearing it as long as you do not go through the base coat. Some times you can run into a problem shooting one product over another. It would be nice if you could find out what was used on it for the re-paint.

Good Luck!

For anyone who wants to know the body side mouldings are not painted they are impreginated with the base color.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If it were me I would remove the mirror, top window seal, door handle and wetsand the entire door and re-clear the whole thing. If you attempt to blend in the clear you could run into problems later with detecting it. You should be fine re-clearing it as long as you do not go through the base coat. Some times you can run into a problem shooting one product over another. It would be nice if you could find out what was used on it for the re-paint.

Good Luck!

For anyone who wants to know the body side mouldings are not painted they are impreginated with the base color.
assassinx1,
They did a great job on that door panel. I hope mine comes out looking just as good.
And I noticed ur a Jersey Guy as well !:cheers:


Shep,
The reasoning behind my logic was this. Right now, even after wetsanding the ridge line, I'll still have a depression or "valley" in the center of the door because the entire door now has who knows how many additional coats and even if I sand and reclear the entire door that depression will still be visible when viewed from different angles.

Yes or no?

My "non-professional" way of thinking was, if I spray 2 or 3 passes of clear along the center of the door after wetsanding and blending depression out, Let it dry, wetsand the area again to remove the overspray above and below the depression,in theory I'll have built up the "depression" hopefully to a point where I can now wetsand the entire door and it should be all even and hopefully no depression would show when viewed from an angle?

And if need be, I can resand and shoot the entire door with a couple coats of clear.

Or as a last resort I can say screw it and let a body shop handle it !
 

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My opinoin is that if you block sand the high spots and be careful to watch when you are hitting the base you will acheive a smooth and flat surface to re-clear. One time one preperation, but thats just me. I think you can take care of it in one prep process. If you do not get it preped out where it is undectictable the first time you might as well do the whole door, get it ready and forget it. The moulding is right in the crown of the door so work it from top and bottom of the pannel, cross sand on the highs to minimize the cut in the base coat. Squeege offten to watch the paint.

I think you can make it wrok if you are carefull and squeege the sanding process offten to watch the cut of the sanding.

Is the color a solid base or a metilic color?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My opinoin is that if you block sand the high spots and be careful to watch when you are hitting the base you will acheive a smooth and flat surface to re-clear. One time one preperation, but thats just me. I think you can take care of it in one prep process. If you do not get it preped out where it is undectictable the first time you might as well do the whole door, get it ready and forget it. The moulding is right in the crown of the door so work it from top and bottom of the pannel, cross sand on the highs to minimize the cut in the base coat. Squeege offten to watch the paint.

I think you can make it wrok if you are carefull and squeege the sanding process offten to watch the cut of the sanding.

Is the color a solid base or a metilic color?

It's Torch Red
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I had my local Body Shop guy take a look at the door today and he told me he'll try to wetsand and polish it out...Free of Charge.
He also metioned that if it dosen't look good, which i think it won't, then we'll have to make an appointment to have the door stripped, resprayed and blended into the fender and 1/4 panel.
What have I got to loose ? :thumbs:
 

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Sorry I had not replied to you post. I took a trip to Vegas and Barrett Jackson in Scottsdale. Good luck with the repair.
 

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assassinx1,
They did a great job on that door panel. I hope mine comes out looking just as good.
And I noticed ur a Jersey Guy as well !:cheers:


Shep,
The reasoning behind my logic was this. Right now, even after wetsanding the ridge line, I'll still have a depression or "valley" in the center of the door because the entire door now has who knows how many additional coats and even if I sand and reclear the entire door that depression will still be visible when viewed from different angles.

Yes or no?


My "non-professional" way of thinking was, if I spray 2 or 3 passes of clear along the center of the door after wetsanding and blending depression out, Let it dry, wetsand the area again to remove the overspray above and below the depression,in theory I'll have built up the "depression" hopefully to a point where I can now wetsand the entire door and it should be all even and hopefully no depression would show when viewed from an angle?

And if need be, I can resand and shoot the entire door with a couple coats of clear.

Or as a last resort I can say screw it and let a body shop handle it !
Good old jersey baby.

Where is fords north or south?

Also if hes painting the door how much is he charging, the guy who did my door charged me 800 total. Also that was 2 years ago , he will charge you the same. Since then ive learned how to paint I can help you p[aint it your self..
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Good old jersey baby.

Where is fords north or south?

Also if hes painting the door how much is he charging, the guy who did my door charged me 800 total. Also that was 2 years ago , he will charge you the same. Since then ive learned how to paint I can help you p[aint it your self..
I'm south of you........Exit 11 on the Pike :thumbsup:
 
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