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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I pulled my Old cam out it had 3000 miles on it to put a little hotter cam in it.

I found the front Cam bearing has some Galling of the left upper about 3/4 inch long Ya I know not good.

Can I replace the front cam bearing when the motor still in the car and Do they make a tool for this.

Or is it time to pull the motor Again.

Murphies law I telling you.
The car did not knock or anythng.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was thinking And a 383 Stoker kit only $700.00 On E-Bay Hint Hint.

New bearings crank rods.

But I dont want to buy anouther set of Injectors I like to use my 24s And will my cam I just ordered be to small for a 383 I am also in CA and have to play the smog game.

Lunati 60101 RPM Range 1000 to 5500 Lope sep 112 Lift .484 Ex .496 Duration 213/[email protected] Adertised 256/262.

If so I need to sent back as soon as it gets here.

Oh ya I figuring with flat top pistons and my 62cc heads I should be at 10.5 to 1 Ish you think that will be to much for a street motor on pump gas the heads are aluminum.
 

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Oh ya I figuring with flat top pistons and my 62cc heads I should be at 10.5 to 1 Ish you think that will be to much for a street motor on pump gas the heads are aluminum.

Nope; And not that far off of the compression ratio of last year of the L98. 10:1 or 10.25:1 if I remember correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I called Lunati Cams and asked the cam I have on order and it on it way how will it act in a 383 motor he said it will move my operating range of the cam down 100 RPM's and it should work fine.

I dont race the car but it will be a tourqe monster thats for sure what I want for the street.

so I have a RPM range of 900 to 5400 thats works for me Plus I am going to use 1.6 rocker arms that should help give it some more HP on top.

So it mite still end up beening a 1000 to 5500 cam.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Bearing Up date

Pulled the motor pull the pan.

Front main cap bearing Okay but could be better 2nd some marks no big deal 3rd Well, I could see alot of brass Hum the motor only has 3000 miles on it it has worn though the first coating already Not good.

If the motor was a old motor I could understand the worn parts but only 3000 miles I think it ws a time bomb waiting to happen.

It 385 time I not going to change it I dont want to pull the motor again any time soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What do you guys think run a quick hone my self I hate to pain a machine shop to do a 15 minute job just to scuff up it for the new rings.

Or screw it dont hone just put in as is I know it take longer to seat the rings but I dont want take metal off the cylinder wall if I dont have to
 

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I wanna see all this eheh.

my gf says she knows what building you work in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I mite be down your way next friday looking for a good machine shop to have cam bearings and put in a hone job.

Ya finding this stuff out sure made my day LOL.

I wanna see all this eheh.

my gf says she knows what building you work in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
More I tear in to it uglyer it getting.

Every main crank Journal on the crank has groves in it so far I have pulled 1 rod cap not bad looking so far semi.

I looks like it has a oiling problem to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Down to the bare Block

This what I have found.

Main cap #1/2, scracthes on bearing upper and lowwer liveable but not 100% where I would of liked to see.

Cap #2/3/4, lowwer bearing smouth but worn to brass some scacthes Upper some deep scacthes not pretty.

All main bearing and rod bearing areas on crank scacthes.

Rods bearings everyone scracthed upper an lowwer.

I going to bring the block down to the local engine shop with the main caps in place with the bearings installed so they can take a look at them and telll me whats up.

#6 Cylinder had nick on outboard about 1/4 long from top of deck straight down I think it above the ring land area.

The motor at .040 over bore now I see what the machine shop said on that.

Next How much for the machine work if over $700.00 I order a 383 block already to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It going to cost about $1200.00 In parts more or less.

Gaskets Ect Included in price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

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thanks for posting those pictures, AN EXCELLENT TEACHING TOOL,

here your looking at the results of an engine pulled down after only a short time running and the resulting bearing damage, its rather obvious that there was a great deal of metallic crud left in the oil passages, or oil pan, or block that got flushed into the bearings and that the block needs to be line honed and/or crank should be checked for straitness, journal taper and surface finish and roundness as the wear seems to indicate both particulates in the oil and un-even wear on the bearing surfaces
I generally see this when someone failed to pull the oil passage plugs and use a high pressure washer and solvent to clean out the blocks internally and externally after a lifter or cam or bearing fails , and remember machine shops are NOT fool proof , they are supposed to clean blocks after machine work but occasionally fail to do it correctly






 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So what do you think I have a leg to stand on and they will do good on this POS.

Everything was new pump pan everything and clean.


thanks for posting those pictures, AN EXCELLENT TEACHING TOOL,

here your looking at the results of an engine pulled down after only a short time running and the resulting bearing damage, its rather obvious that there was a great deal of metallic crud left in the oil passages, or oil pan, or block that got flushed into the bearings and that the block needs to be line honed and/or crank should be checked for straitness, journal taper and surface finish and roundness as the wear seems to indicate both particulates in the oil and un-even wear on the bearing surfaces
I generally see this when someone failed to pull the oil passage plugs and use a high pressure washer and solvent to clean out the blocks internally and externally after a lifter or cam or bearing fails , and remember machine shops are NOT fool proof , they are supposed to clean blocks after machine work but occasionally fail to do it correctly






 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Crackes

I also asked Blue Print Engines they are say the block are check for crackes so why is there 2 crackes where someone sleeved the #3 cylinder.

And why did someone sleeve the # 3 Cyinder in the first place the block should of been rejected in the first place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I checked My Roller Rocker amrs they shot they grinding when you cycle them and have play in them I replace them and New push rods why take a change.

I need to have the heads checked now what a can of worms this turned out to be.

So basicly I building a new motor from Pan up again.

But this time even If anouther short block it will come all apart and be Ultra soinc cleaned inside and out double checked for everything before it go's together.

If I have to use the Stock L98 block it will be CLEAN Clean Clean.

I also been thinking of finding a newer roller block and build off of that instead.

I might do a Corvette Mike and put togther in the kitchen I dont think the Wife will be that mad after seening what happen to the last motor.
 

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lets look over your options and build you a nice engine on a budget but do it correctly one step at a time
IF youll be willing to discuss and take some experienced advice I feel you can make better choices and get better results.
look Im sure you can assemble something cheaply and get DEALS on parts but you don,t want to repeat the problem and results so lets examine each step and do things correctly

since your basically starting fresh lets build a 383 that will kick butt

STEP 1
decide on a hp goal and budget limitations, what your starting with, and research a parts list, with DURABILITY as the main goal

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=38

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=69&t=519&p=644#p644

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=69&t=1598
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Backing up there Product

Blueprint engine has said they are going to send me a replacment s 383 short Block.

Is I tearing it down to a bare block when I get it and clean with a brush every oil passegway plastic every bearing, Make sure it's clean before it gos togehter.

I still have to tear down the heads to make sure all the valves and valve guilds are still good.
 
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