Can't Start my '90

Kubs said:

I have a 1990 Z51 and it wont start with the key. I can start it by getting it rolling and popping the clutch so I know its not the VATS. I'm thinking its the clutch switch (the one that wont let the car start without the clutch in). I took the panel off the bottom of the dash and jumped the pins on the only switch making contact with the clutch pedal, and still nothing. Is there another switch somewhere? or is this a different problem?

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does it turn over when u ues the key??

sounds strange ?how does it run after the push , will it restart ,can u use it or will u get stranded and need a push every time u want to travel under power :huh:

Yes it needs a push every time but after it starts its fine. It has full power and no hesitations or anything. Its not the battery because the radio and headlights work but nothing happens when I turn the key. No sounds or anything happen. No clicking, it doesnt sound like its trying to turn over, nothing. There are two switchs on the brake pedal, could it be one of those maybe? What do both of them do? I assume one is for the brake lights.

Also No I will not get stranded after push starting it. Everything works like it should.

Kubs said:

Yes it needs a push every time but after it starts its fine. It has full power and no hesitations or anything. Its not the battery because the radio and headlights work but nothing happens when I turn the key. No sounds or anything happen. No clicking, it doesnt sound like its trying to turn over, nothing. There are two switchs on the brake pedal, could it be one of those maybe? What do both of them do? I assume one is for the brake lights.

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im not a mech but it sounds like a easy one for them gotta be a switch or like that :buhbye:

even a grounded or chafeed wire

I dont have a whole lot of money so I would really not like to pay someone to look at it if I dont have to.

I found another switch up by the pivot point of the clutch. It a round metal object with two wires coming off of it. I think this is my problem. I just have to get the clutch assembly out and test it.

Send out a few PMs, hopefully someone is home today and can respond.

:thumbsup:

Kubs said:

I took the panel off the bottom of the dash and jumped the pins on the only switch making contact with the clutch pedal, and still nothing.

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If you did this, it is NOT the clutch switch

Kubs said:

.... but nothing happens when I turn the key. No sounds or anything happen. No clicking, it doesnt sound like its trying to turn over, nothing.

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if runs/starts on a rolling clutch pop, My guess is it is the starter

-=Jeff=- said:

My guess is it is the starter

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:agree: Pull the starter and take it to your local parts store and have it tested

Try starting it with the clutch switch disconnected but without shorting them together. Some of these switches(i cant remember exactly which, so this is an easy experiment) OPEN the circuit when the clutch is depressed, allowing the car to start, if thats the case then you shorting them together defeats the purpose, just disconnect the switch. See what happens. If that doesnt work, Id think about an ignition switch or crank/starter relay as the most likely(though not only) possible culprit.

BASSIST said:

:agree: Pull the starter and take it to your local parts store and have it tested

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While it could be the starter, this is a very labor intensive way to check. I dont recommend it. Try this:

A: check that youve got power on the big terminal at the starter. If you do, jump from the big terminal to the small one(should have a purple or grey wire) with a remote start switch( a screwdriver works too, be careful) If the starter and solenoid are good itll crank. If it cranks youve got a control issue. ie: solenoid wire, ignition switch....

Maven,

the clutch switch on the C4 CLOSES the circuit to allow it to start, if he jumped it, and it still did not work, it is more then likely the starter. besides in a C4 the starter is not too bad, Especially the 90 as that one has the OEM Mini-Starter

I think I jumped the wrong switch. There is one that looks like a brake switch on the middle of the clutch and then there is one way up by the pivot point. I jumped the one in the middle but I think it is the one up top.

Kubs said:

I think I jumped the wrong switch. There is one that looks like a brake switch on the middle of the clutch and then there is one way up by the pivot point. I jumped the one in the middle but I think it is the one up top.

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You're correct Kubs, if youve got two switches on your clutch then its the top one, closest to the pivot. The lower one that you jumped is the cruise control switch.

Get yourself a remote start switch(avail at any parts/tool store for just a few dollars, or your fave tool truck for a lot more) or a heavy jump wire, or screwdriver and get under there and jump the solenoid to the battery wire, this is the easiest way to find out if its a starter/solenoid issue, or an ignition switch/clutch switch/wiring issue.

Okay, lets go this route. It could be VATS.

Remove starter relay, install jumper wire from terminal "E" to "A", try to start, if it starts youve got a VATS issue.
If no start check for power at "E" with key in CRANK, if no power its ignition switch. If youve got power do the screwdriver solenoid trick, if it starts youve got a bad purple wire from the starter to the clutch switch, if not...starter.


Relay is behind the center of the I/P with the chime, flasher, horn relay. it should have a flat 4 wire connector with 2 green wires and 2 yellows.

If it were a VATS issue would it still let me push start it by getting it rolling?

Kubs said:

If it were a VATS issue would it still let me push start it by getting it rolling?

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Yep, the VATS simply controls the starter relay. Thats why jumping the wires I mentioned will allow the car to start if its a VATS issue, because that simple little jumper eliminates the system.