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Discussion Starter #1
I have had them on the 2000' for about 400mi. so far and the brake dust is down by about 80%.:excited: :excited:
The very little dust that does show up is a light color anyway.:thumbsup: Stopping power is the same.:buhbye:
 

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That's for the tip. :thumbsup:

My brake dust stinks on the Z06. A mile drive and the front wheels look like crap. Can't even imagine the front wheels if I had chrome rims. When I need brake pads I'm switching.
 

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Ceramic Pads

I had the Chevrolet dealer put ceramic pads I bought from Ecklers for my 02. All the difference in the world in brake dust. Still stops the same. They have been on for 2000 miles. I had them on a 2001 Prowler also. No problems.
 

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I have Napa ceramic pads at all 4 corners, stops great and the dust is amost gone. I can easily go 2 weeks and the rims won't look bad at all.

The wear is nice too, my pads are over a year old and I'm guessing I have another 3-4 months on them, easy.
 

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Re: Ceramic Pads

tpreston said:
They should be standard on all cars!!!!!!

Just one major caution. I spend a lot of time instructing/driving over at Gingerman in Michigan, From what I have seen most ceramic pads do not like elevated temperatures and lose their effectiveness, very quickly, on a road course.

Idon't think you would want to use them in driving school or anything else where elevated temperatures played in.
 

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I like the Hawk HPS pad. Low on dust and easy on the rotors.

The only down side of the pad is you will need to burn them in every 90 days or so, if you do a lot of stop and go driving.

Bill
96 Grand Sport #670
 

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billcar670 said:
I like the Hawk HPS pad. The only down side of the pad is you will need to burn them in every 90 days or so
How do you go about burning them in?
 

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It is actually called "Bedding".

Bill
96 Grand Sport #670

1. Note: Never “Bed” pads on rotors which have not first been “Seasoned.” Always allow a substantial coast down zone when bedding pads that will allow you to safely drive the car to a stop in the event of fade.
2. Perform four repeated light to medium stops, from 65 to 10 mph, to bring the rotors to temperature.
3. Perform two heavy stops, back to back, at a point just pending wheel lock, from 65 mph to about 5 mph.
4. Drive for five to ten minutes to create cooling airflow, without using the brakes if at all possible.
5. Perform three light stops in succession.
6. Perform eight heavy stops, back to back, at a point just pending wheel lock, from 65 mph to about 5 mph.
7. Drive for ten minutes to create cooling airflow, without using the brakes if at all possible.

Metallic brake pads need high temperatures to keep the pad “Bedded”. If you drive the car for a period of time without using the brakes extensively, you may need to “Bed” the pads again. This is not a problem. Simply repeat the procedure.

When switching from Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads to semi-metallic brake pads (something we do not recommend), you will need to wear through the layer of carbon that the PFC pads have deposited in the rotor surface. The new pads won’t grip well at all, until this layer of carbon is removed.
 
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