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there are several tricks & tools that make installing plugs easier, one trick to installing/starting the threads is to slip a plug neck firmly into a 18" section of rubber fuel line, this allows the plug to be easily dirrected into place,spun and aligned in a tight place .
gap them correctly, a .043 is about correct for most applications and don,t forget the ANTISEEZE on the threads

cutting a standard socket to shorter length helps at times, useing a much longer spark plug socket and an open end wrench vs a ratchet can work at times..


http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=962

http://www.headersockets.com/

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94011


http://www.rshongkong.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?com.broadvision.session.new=Yes&D=Sidewinder Speedwrench&Ntt=Sidewinder Speedwrench&Ntk=I18NAll&Ntx=mode matchany&N=0&Nty=1&name=SiteStandard&forwardingPage=line&R=2483097&callingPage=/jsp/search/search.jsp&[email protected]@@@[email protected]@@@&BV_EngineID=cccjaddilkjdlmmcefeceefdffhdhif.0&cacheID=hk01netscape&Nr=avl:hk01


these spinner ratchets are basically a P.I.T.A. and nearly useless and clumsy 98% of the time but on rare occasions they are a job saver


http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdgear02.html#9520


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91705




wobble extensions can be a help at times

http://www.amazon.com/Piece-Wobble-Socket-Extension-8in/dp/B0006BK1DO/ref=sr_1_3/103-3486570-0918205?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1191099843&sr=1-3

and you won,t be the first guy to cut a hole in an inner fender skirt to get access at a decent angle to a spark plug :thumbsup: and if you need to remove some accessory to get access, DO IT rather than beat yourself silly trying to work around the darn thing!!
think in THREE dimensions, sometimes accessing a plug from under the cars far easier than from above.
the two rear pass side plugs on some corvettes is usually easier this way IF YOU have the correct tools

In most cases a offset box end wrench can be used,



in many cases youll want to cut the wrench in half or shorter for easier access, or use one in combo with a sparkplug socket thats been cut much shorter than originally produced on a lathe, Ive even seen guys cut the socket shorter and weld a short wrench at an odd angle just for one particularly P.I.T.A. plug location on thier car

but in some cases





cutting a socket down like this and use of a open end wrench , rather than a ratchet to turn the socket from the side on the rear hex is the better route, (yeah! you may need to cut it even shorter than the picture suggests) in fact with the use of a wrench on the outside hex, theres no reason the socket can,t be cut enought for the plug tip to extennd well out of the drive hole where the ratchet usually fits into the socket and don,t forget that they make 1/2" drive sockets also that allow the plug to extend further out, or that you can weld a wrench at odd angles to the socket (even to the side of the socket) one great reason to pick up cheap chinese wrenches , is the cut/weld use for applications where youll be relucktant to do so with a decent wrench brand


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LT1's

Hey Grumpy, Good Stuff

I've read countless threads with guys screaming about changing LT1 plug wires, having to loosen the powersteering pump & bracket to get to the right side ot the opti. Even with it loose you can't see the wires or get your fingers in there easily, etc.
This will all go away if you spend $24. Get a power steering pully remover/installer. Preformance Tool p/n 87022, at Pep Boys,Autozone.
Since you have to pull the belt and tensioner anyway, you can pull the pully in 3 minutes and have easy access to the opti. This will cut the plug wire change time to less than an hour and a half.

On a LT1, I wouldn't cut a hole in the fender liner since you can pull it in 5 minutes if you have some Torx bits. Even the cheapo HF set ($3) will get this done a few times before they break.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for adding the tip on the pullie remover, I forgot to post that :thumbsup:
 

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Damn it, I forgot the anti seeze. :bang

I'm wrestling with the Accel shorty plugs and my hooker sidepipe headers on the drive side now.

I've also heard a crows foot wrench helps in tight places. Good post.:thumbsup:
 

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Although this thread is pretty old, I thought I would chime in cause I just changed my plugs today on my 84'.
;)
I went to the auto parts store and bought a set of Bosch Platinum 2's, a fuel filter and a PCV and then went down the road to go get an oil change.
Since I had never changed the plugs on this car before I was expecting some headaches. So I while getting my oil done, I asked them how much they would charge to put the plugs I bought in for me. Crap! They wanted $75 plus tax and said it would take an hour and a half!!
There was no way that was going to happen if I could help it....

It was a decent day out so I went for it. The only tools I used were a 5/8' spark plug socket, a thumb ratchet, a 3/8" socket wrench and a couple of times I used a 3" extension. I had a piece of fuel line on hand in case I needed to use it to get some of the harder to reach plugs started, but never used it. I also bought a small packet of that Anti-Seize to put on the new plugs threads. I went real easy on that stuff. And I also bought a bottle of Permatex Dielectric Grease to stick in the boot of the spark plug wires before snapping them back onto the ends of the new spark plugs, just to make sure there was a real solid connection happening there.
Surprisingly, it only took me about 30 minutes to do with no troubles at all!!
I had read where on some cars, guys were said they needed to take the passenger side wheel off or the wheel well liner, etc. etc. But I didn't need to do anything special. It was really as straight forward as could be.
So don't be afraid to get in there and do it.
My car has 50,000 miles on it and the plugs were original. It made a HUGE difference in how the car runs! Smoothed it out like new. I went ahead and replaced the fuel filter and PCV as well. Again, turned out to be very easy to do.

-Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #7
what you've found out (as is commonly the case) is that in many cases the actual work required is far less intimidating after you understand whats involved than it is before you started.
now thats not always the case and at times your bound to get in over your head or need tools you don,t own, but youll never learn new skills unless your willing to try new projects , obviously having experienced help won,t hurt, but having a few references , tools a shop manual and asking questions and doing some research goes a long way at times.
I can remember looking at a TPI corvette back in 1985 and thinking W.T.H. is this, and HOW does it work?
the 1984 dual TB was at least semi familiar in concept, but after some RESEARCH it was not NEARLY as intimidating ...as always purchasing a shop manual and just start researching the changes tends to make things less awe inspiring and at first you start muttering to yourself about crazy engineers or insane ways things were assembled, but after awhile you get more familiar and it becomes almost comfortable....until the NEXT major set of changes where your forced to adapt AGAIN



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