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I asked this on another forum but I could use some more opinions...

I just replaced the rear leaf with a VBP dual-mount composite monospring. Now for the front, I'm going back and forth on between the VBP front composite monospring and the QA1 coil over’s. I've been reading several threads on front monosprings but I really haven't found much on coil over’s. Which will be better from a performance standpoint?

I have a 77' L-82 that is set up mainly for hot rodin' around. I am looking for something that can handle turns and curves but can also occasionally handle the strip.
 

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I wouldn;t touch the front coilovers. They rely on the whimpy 5/16 bolts that hold stock shocks in to carry all the laod and I have read posts about guys that have installed them and hated them. They eventually pulled them back out.
I run TRUE coilovers in the front and it wasn't easy. It involved cutting the spring pockets top and bottm, allot of welding and fabricating but the effort was worth the trouble.
Stick to the stock setup. Forget the coilovers.
 

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I wouldn;t touch the front coilovers. They rely on the whimpy 5/16 bolts that hold stock shocks in to carry all the laod and I have read posts about guys that have installed them and hated them. They eventually pulled them back out.
I run TRUE coilovers in the front and it wasn't easy. It involved cutting the spring pockets top and bottm, allot of welding and fabricating but the effort was worth the trouble.
Stick to the stock setup. Forget the coilovers.
Who's kit are you talking about? Van Steel's kit is pretty nice on my car. Little ruffer ride b/c of the delrin bushings but I can live with it. Handles good too. There is not one 5/16" bolt in their kit though. I had the front monospring and hated it. Felt like I was riding in a basketball the front end was so bouncy.
 

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Who's kit are you talking about? Van Steel's kit is pretty nice on my car. Little ruffer ride b/c of the delrin bushings but I can live with it. Handles good too. There is not one 5/16" bolt in their kit though. I had the front monospring and hated it. Felt like I was riding in a basketball the front end was so bouncy.
What shocks did you use?

Can you even use shocks for the mono spring? Don't think plates go in the spring pocket?
 

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The front mono creates clearance problems as well. I am with strider on this one. Either stick with the original, or start modding the front end. I have seen some C5 suspension installs that are awesome for autocross.

JMHO :thumbsup:
 

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The front mono creates clearance problems as well. I am with strider on this one. Either stick with the original, or start modding the front end. I have seen some C5 suspension installs that are awesome for autocross.

JMHO :thumbsup:
What clearance problems?? I've been running the monoleaf in the front for 8+ years now and even ran it through several winters with decent snow falls. I've never noticed a clearance problem with anything. It doesn't hang any lower than the oil pan or bellhousing, and its at the center of the wheel. If you hit the monospring, you've got issues.

I will say I wasn't pleased with the setup as it was shipped from VBP. It's taken me installing different sway bars & shocks to get it to handle and ride nice.
 

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Using those 5/16" bolts to carry the entire load of a C/O concern me too. Instead of coil-overs vs. mono-leaf, I'm thinking about experimenting some day with progressive rate front coils, and/or triple adjustable dampers.

BTW, welcome over to fresh waters, Jason. :cheers:
 

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Using those 5/16" bolts to carry the entire load of a C/O concern me too. Instead of coil-overs vs. mono-leaf, I'm thinking about experimenting some day with progressive rate front coils, and/or triple adjustable dampers.

BTW, welcome over to fresh waters, Jason. :cheers:
Back in the day I put varicoil front springs in my truck up front. Makes it ride more like a cadillac than a performance car.
 

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Back in the day I put varicoil front springs in my truck up front. Makes it ride more like a cadillac than a performance car.
Ummm. Low rates aren't quite what I'm after, tho. Have Daytona's now (550's bottomed too much), and can't understand why so many experts hate on stiff springs, except Guldstrand who makes some 1000+ coils. I know they wouldn't be off the shelf pieces, but I'd likely start with something around a 700-850# progressive if I ever mess with them at all. Lots to do first...
 

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Ummm. Low rates aren't quite what I'm after, tho. Have Daytona's now (550's bottomed too much), and can't understand why so many experts hate on stiff springs, except Guldstrand who makes some 1000+ coils. I know they wouldn't be off the shelf pieces, but I'd likely start with something around a 700-850# progressive if I ever mess with them at all. Lots to do first...
I think for racing applications, stiff front springs are the way to go. I think most vendors sell the normal 460# & 550# springs b/c thats what the majority of the people want. Big bars and soft springs. I don't think a lof people realize that theroy is great for non-radial tires from back in the day. Radials handle much different. The high rate spring crowd is very small and it also takes a good driver to handle them. Some of the fastest guys around in the "vette world" are running extremely stiff front springs.
 

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I am a fan of the soft spring big sway bar crowd. I like my ride. I don't want my fillings jarred out over railroad crossings or have to crawl over them either.
I also want my tires to follow the road contours. Stiff springs bounce over the road, loosing contact from time to time.
Unless you race the car most of the time why compromise street manners?
We all like to think we drive race cars but in reality they are street cars driven occassionally on the race track.
I set mine up for good street manners and a smooth ride that doesn't shack the hell out of the car.
I do get complements on the ride quality.
If you want a flat cornering car , which we all want, work on the roll center and add that big sway bar.
With extreme springs why not just weld everything solid and forget the suspension????
 

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If your going to do coil overs, you need to do them properly, i.e. full coil overs not the "semi" ones from QA1 you see on ebay etc.

I went with the Meyer tubular a-arms and coil overs, love the ride, the adjustability and saved a little weight.

Nick
 

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I am a fan of the soft spring big sway bar crowd. I like my ride. I don't want my fillings jarred out over railroad crossings or have to crawl over them either.
I also want my tires to follow the road contours. Stiff springs bounce over the road, loosing contact from time to time.
Unless you race the car most of the time why compromise street manners?
We all like to think we drive race cars but in reality they are street cars driven occassionally on the race track.
I set mine up for good street manners and a smooth ride that doesn't shack the hell out of the car.
I do get complements on the ride quality.
If you want a flat cornering car , which we all want, work on the roll center and add that big sway bar.
With extreme springs why not just weld everything solid and forget the suspension????
:agree: Very few of us have dedicated race cars like Howard. But, if that's your case, power to you. Alot can be gleaned from your input.
 

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I do not agree with the soft spring big bar approach, I like stiffer springs becaus I hate stiff roll bars. They take away from the independence of the suspension, same reason i don't like transverse springs either. If you want race car cornering, you have to live with race car comforts. There is no way a soft springed car with big bars will outhandle a stiffed spring soft bat car on a smooth circuit 9and all race tracks are smooth, unlike the open roads) It's true you need to run the softest spring that works, maximizing the suspensions ability to follow the surface, however this should not be interpreted as saying "use soft springs", it's simply not the case. With enough camber gain even a car that rolls like crazy can corner hard but does it give a confident feeling? NO!, so usually the solution is to slap on a set of thick sway bars. If you want a flat cornering car, use stiff rsprings, stiff shocks, lower the CG, raise the roll center a tad if possible, raise the differential in the rear to keep the suspension from going to toe out under compression and LOWER that car! Then again, if you want to use stiff springs you better stiffen up that chassis. No use in dropping soem 1000 pounders under there and have a frame that bends like a wet noodle @ 450#. Most people install coil overs for the looks, and there's nothing wrong with that, it certainly looks a whole lot better than a leaf spring (certainly a steel one) and you do get some improvements because coil over shocks are usually high quality (unlike the kyb/monroe/and what not type junk!), you have an almost perfect linear spring compression (something you do not have w/ the stock coils) easy adjsutability, no transferred ahrmonics (rear leaf spring)... yadda yadda.
 

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If you want a flat cornering car, use stiff rsprings [660?], stiff shocks[bilsten s10 shocks in the front and konis in the rear], lower the CG[done], raise the roll center a tad if possible [future mod], raise the differential in the rear to keep the suspension from going to toe out under compression[done] and LOWER that car![done]
Hope mine handles

And, the frame starts to twist at 450#? I thought it was 750.
 

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Marck,
No one is arguing your approach. There is no doubt in my mind your method would give better results. All I/we are saying is for most of us, it just is not practical/necessary.
If stiffer springs take a stiffer frame and stiffer shocks and so on, it just does not pay for a car that does autocross 3 times a year. You and Howard are in a whole new category.
My 81 Disco Buggy is my wife's DD. I want it the best possible, but full roll bar just ain't gonna happen.
 
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