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Discussion Starter #181
I hate this new site update
 

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Discussion Starter #182
You cannot imagine how long I spent doing the latest update on my project to only have it all fail. What worked last time did not work this time. What worked before didn't work the time before. New is not always better. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #183
My latest update.

The car is now home and I will start doing the work that I can do. Now is the time for the ‘rubber to meet the road’.

First picture, we needed to be able to have the steering rack function properly and that wasn’t going to happen without adjusting the alternator. The steering rack knuckle was in the way and this is the shops fix.

This ARE catch can is mounted and ready for hoses. It is an upgraded version to the first one I had which will now be used for the Rossler transmission.


There are plenty of updated pictures of the roll cage upgrades, needed to get the 7.5 second NHRA certification. Anything not painted is clearly the new parts. Looking at the finished cage, I admit, I feel safe going down the track. Kreymr Racing has done very good work and the attention to detail is reassuring to me. Look at the bars on the driver side, you can see the slight bend in them to allow for the seat and myself. The bars behind my seat and over top of my seat, are very much made to protect me.
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Discussion Starter #184
These pictures of the finished stainless-steel headers fail to show the $$ wasted on them, whether by design or by thievery. I understand they are custom for my engine bay and still, before Dwain got his hands on them, they weren’t more than tack welded at the flanges and my collectors had gone missing. Dwain finished the welding, added on the collectors and installed the 02 bungs. Now the question is whether or not I choose to wrap them?



I have a couple of pictures of the NRG adapter hub. This adapter fit directly to the I Did It steering column and it looks like it belongs there. Unlike the Grant steering wheel and its mount which looks clunky and cheap. The downside to the NRG quick release 3.0 that I have, it is 6 holes, and the Grant steering wheel is 5 holes. None of the bolt patterns match up so now I order a new steering wheel. :eek: The new steering wheel is also from NRG Innovations so everything is expected to work. When I originally bought the Grant wheel, I wasn’t doing a funny car cage or a quick release hub. In the end I am glad to have upgraded to these components.

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I have a picture from the underside of the car’s backend. The picture shows the welding points on the parachute mount. Kreymr Racing didn’t like the original mount and I have to agree. This upgraded mount gives me confidence that the parachute is going to stay attached to my car. I’m including a picture or the first mount for comparison sake.

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Next, I have a picture of the mounted Weldon A16,000-A fuel pump. It is a monster of a pump, but it fits in the space where it needs to be. Once my part is done, the tank will be re-installed, and the lines run for the complete fuel system. Because of the limited space for my fuel cell I have a small tank, so we are also plumbing in a secondary tank, which was originally going to be used for a methanol injection kit. This second tank is available now to use because of the choice to run E85, which is the same reason we need more fuel capacity.
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This picture shows a work in progress. Because the firewall was moved back to accommodate the V8, the dashboard also moved farther back. This meant some modifications were needed. The first picture shows a sheet metal piece that fits from the stock dash and fills the space between the dash and the windshield. The next 2 pictures show where the door panel needs to be modified and why. The contours of the dash sides and the door panel no longer lined up, so Dwain used his skills to make everything work.
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I have shown a picture before of the modified bumper allowing for extra airflow for the S/C intercooler. This picture shows the modification to the bumper itself. Absolutely, no air constriction here. Good thing I have a very stout roll cage as I don’t think the bumper is really going to protect me much.

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Another lingering issue, lingering for over a decade, was my new gas pedal. The gas pedal has been another unacceptably expensive issue with this project. Thanks, to Dwain, this issue is almost finished. While red usually means stop, in my brain it says go faster, so I’m planning to paint the gas pedal red.

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Now for the “what is this” picture? Us older guys will know what this is. Younger guys won’t have a clue. In fact, I showed it to my wife, Maria, yesterday and she had no clue what it was. Even though she’s slightly older than me, she had no reference point to the function of this object, even though, she saw where it was mounted. I am curious as to who tells us all what it is, first.
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Discussion Starter #185
That part was actually one of the very few electrical parts that I supplied that the wiring guy used. Most of the electrical parts, except for most of the Holley parts, the electrical guy simply pushed off to the side and purchased what he wanted instead. I know that seems reasonable to a point, somethings he discarded were basic and universal, like the many relays that I had already bought. Still, the simple truth is, with the work the Dwain @ Kreymr Racing did, plus the wiring by Steve, this project is so closer to being finished than it ever has been, EVER!!!

The last couple of pictures are of my fenders which need to be reworked because the welds sit proud. The welds need heat shrinking so that I can finish the body work. I have friend from work (welder) who is coming to do this repair. The body shop who modified the fenders for me sent these back in a state that even the fabricator called, unacceptable. That body shop was supposed to go fix the problem while the car was at the fabricators. They chose not to do that and instead they wanted me to pay to have the car towed to/from the body shop. On top of the cost of towing, who knows how much $$ they would hold the car hostage for to fix something that they should never have allowed in the first place. The said they needed the car, but they had built a jig (at my cost) so they had no reasonable excuse why they didn’t get this right. You will notice that I don’t use their name and that is because I don’t believe in either slander or ‘all publicity is good publicity if you spell their name right’. Many customers likely had good experiences with that body shop, me, not so much.

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I spent too much time to make this post syntax, grammatically correctly. If this post is incorrect it is because of the latest site update. I worked my a** off to make this post make sense in plain English.
 

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Discussion Starter #186
There are many updates to my project but those will have to wait until I have a bit more time to get those updates posted.

How ever, I am thinking this update is worth jumping the que for.

Finally, after over 14 years my race engine breathed for the first time today. It was an awesome moment.

We need to adjust a few things away from then N/A setup to EFI. We made close to 750 hp naturally aspirated on the first pull. Oil pressure was an issue, so we didn’t push past 7500 rpms. My heads are built to withstand 8200 rpm’s and keep on smiling.

I need a System 1 oil filter for the pressure we are running. We also need a bigger pulley for the drysump pump because ARE wants us to spin less tan our current pulley spins. We have a few more tweaks to make to get all of the lines for the drysump to fit the custom motor mount. I have a LS steam line kit arriving this week and I now need to order a torque converter. Finally, the patient has a heartbeat.

victory_red_SS' heart beat

There were 2 pulls done and this the second one as I was in the control room for the first pull.

victory_red_SS' dyno pull
 

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Discussion Starter #187
I'm guessing people might like these pictures as well.

103083
103084
 

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Discussion Starter #189
Thanks, it has been a hell of a ride getting to this point but now I can focus on the ride it's going to be once it is finally finished. :)
 

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Any update with regards to this build? It has been a couple of months and I'm wondering if you have managed to finish this project.
 

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Discussion Starter #192
Any update with regards to this build? It has been a couple of months and I'm wondering if you have managed to finish this project.
Here is an update as per your request.

Because my work is being affected by Covid, things are a bit slower than I wanted them to be. I’m still not finished but progress is being made.
The body work is 95% complete and whole car is in primer epoxy primer. The engine bay components are top coated, the roll cage is painted, and the back half of the interior has carpet. I am still fighting with the headliner as there isn’t enough clearance between the cage and the roof. This is more of an annoyance that a problem.
I have chosen to give up on the original plan to use a tach and speedometer gauges. The Rossler powerglide does not make an allowance for a speedo cable as they say that it becomes an issue under as much pressure as it will run at. I have instead chosen to go with a Holley digital dash as it comes with a GPS sensor for speed.

During my down time from work, I have been painting at my engine builder’s house and by the time that I am finished there, I will have a credit in my favor. Not having to cover anything else on the price of the engine is a plus as there are other things that I need to pay for.
The drysump lines have been run, and the pumps pulley has been modified (it was too wide) and a second keyway was added. The intake manifold has been tightened down and the ATI damper and S/C crankshaft pulley have been mounted.
Because the car needed to go to 3 different shops and it doesn’t run under its own power, I chose to pick up the race trailer early instead of spending $$ on towing it everywhere. Before I even left the lot with the trailer, I put my first coat of paint on the walls and floor. I did my second coat before work the next morning. Somewhere later, I will paint the bare wood on the ceiling and the side door in victory red. The floor paint is strong enough to drive a semi over it and it isn’t affected by gas or oil. The trailer also comes in handy as a storage space because with the car stripped down, I need space for spraying everything.
This coming Saturday the car goes to the exhaust shop for the first set of pipes. Because of limited space under the car, as well as $$, we are just doing 3.5” straight pipes from the headers to just in front of the rear wheels. Down the road, I will need to have another set of pipes fabricated so that the car is quiet enough to run on street legal nights. Once again, space is the issue. I did buy cutouts but there was no space or direction to position them to work on my car. That means custom and we all know how painful that can be. Speaking of custom, the stainless-steel headers have been ceramic coated to reduce engine bay temperatures. I’m kicking around the idea of coating the straight pipes too but I’ll do some research on the pro’s and cons of that idea.
Today I am doing some dressing of the S/C so the last couple of lines can be run for the oiling system and what ever else pops up. As Richmond says, it’s easier to do all of this before the engine leaves his shop.

Shortly after the final touches are done to the engine and the pipes are made, I will install the engine into the car so that it’s ready to send back to the fabricator. He has a few odds and ends to complete.
One of those issues is trying to get the dashboard to mate up with the Cobalt door panels as they are molded for each other. I have decided it is likely way cheaper to just have removable panels made up with a detail similar to where the stock armrest is. Then I will just paint the main part black and the detail part red, mimicking the original look.




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Discussion Starter #193

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Discussion Starter #194



 

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I also have a few pictures showing my tight spaces under the hood. The first headache is how far back the engine sits. I am getting my fabricator to see if I can get a modification done to the center cowling so I can re & re the engine. The likely hood is that there is no fast way to re & re the engine. :(

The exhaust headers are also a tight fit and they only go in from underneath. On top of that, the steering arm goes between the header tubes. Once everything is done I am hoping I can just unbolt the headers and not have to disconnect the steering arm any time the engine comes out.











 

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My latest update.

The car is now home and I will start doing the work that I can do. Now is the time for the ‘rubber to meet the road’. Here got all the help i needed.

First picture, we needed to be able to have the steering rack function properly and that wasn’t going to happen without adjusting the alternator. The steering rack knuckle was in the way and this is the shops fix.
Great work! Simply amazing! (y)(y)(y) I can only imagine how much time and effort you have put into it.
 

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Anything new happening?
 

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Great work! Simply amazing! (y)(y)(y) I can only imagine how much time and effort you have put into it.
Thank you, it's more work and $$$ than I want to dwell on but it's still moving along even with the unexpected delays/holdups.
Anything new happening?
Ask and you shall receive.:)

I have some news, good and bad, what's new?

The exhaust pipes are done and most of the suspension is tuned. The exhaust pipes dump in front of the back tires and the pipes will be angled after I put on the rocker sills. I paid more than quoted which is typical bad news for this project.

While the car was at the shop getting the exhaust done, that fabricator informed me that my chassis didn’t meet the proper 25.1 code

I talked to the NHRA inspector that certified my cage/chassis. He came right out and admitted that he screwed up. The bad news is the inspector had failed eye surgery and now he can’t do his job. With the border closed I have no other access to a NHRA inspector.

The fabricator that did the funny car cage part, played dumb as if he didn't know better. I am not buying that because of all the detail he put into the rest of my cage that he did.

The inspector said that having the tag did not trump the actual need for the rest of the other bars. Simply put, for a 7.50 certification I need to add those bars. The first estimate that I got is 5K. That is the biggest bad news of late. I was advised to just settle for 8.50 which I refuse to accept. There has been too much money spent, too many lies told, too many missed deadlines and too many broken promises.

Years ago I was told that it would take me years to run under 10 seconds. Then I went to Frank Hawley's NHRA drag racing school. I went from no experience to 9.11 seconds in 12 hours of schooling albeit in a well built promod car.. I have since been told that it is a world of difference from 9's to 7's. While I accept some people have those opinions, I don't agree with generalized opinions.

This car was built to go full out, no holding back. That wasn’t always the plan but it became the plan/dream long ago. Giving up on it now is not in my nature. I just don't understand quit.

The past few months have been a bit slow work/project money wise but work is finally picking up again so I can set more $$$ aside for the car. That is a good thing because the Rossler powerglide that I bought is up for re-certification this September. While I found the one Canadian company that is certified to re-cert a Reid case, everything must be re & re’ed even though this transmission has never seen any action to date.

While I did start to put back the interior and carpet, I had to stop because of the several points that need to be welded for the chassis/cage. I will also pull out my Dominator ecu just to be safe while that work is being done.

Once this car is finally done and I am having fun with it I will still need to work plenty of overtime as I still have my heart set on having a Vette sitting in my garage. ;)





 
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