Corvette Forum : DigitalCorvettes.com Corvette Forums banner

121 - 140 of 185 Posts

·
Banned
Joined
·
5,331 Posts
Ok so you're telling me that the alternator and water pump are both wrong for my LSX block? I would like to say I am surprised considering I specifically ordered through a JEGS technician but nothing surprises me anymore on this project. The upside is JEGS is usually great at making things right with their orders. I will call them tomorrow.

Thanks for pointing that out.
You will have to do most of the remaining work yourself.
I see 500 man hours left in this project.
Nearly all will lose Intrest.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
280 Posts
Discussion Starter #123
My bud Ed and me take on projects like yours.
I know how long it takes .
It sounds like you know all too well these type of projects take time and I don't believe in doing something half assed just for the sake of getting it done.

I am starting a new job next month that will give me a regular schedule for the first time in decades. As many of the parts are now in my possession or at the engine builders the remaining work is the big part left to do. I am really blessed as my wife is finally happy that I'm working on the project again which was not always the case and she is more than happy to visit me in the garage. ;)
 

·
DC PIT CREW BOSS
Joined
·
36,363 Posts
When you have the wife on board, you've gotten 1/2 the problems solved:thumbsup:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
280 Posts
Discussion Starter #125
When you have the wife on board, you've gotten 1/2 the problems solved:thumbsup:
I couldn't agree more. :agree:

When the payment was made for the S/C kit she never even said a word at the cost. To make that even more impressive, the day I placed the order for the S/C kit I got the unexpected surprise that the Wilson intake manifold was ready to ship a full 4 weeks ahead of schedule. Within 2 hours I spent a lot of saved up $$$ and still my Beautiful wife said not a word. To help keep her happy I have already paid for our 15 days in Hawaii next May sort of as a thank you to her for being such a great wife. :D
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
280 Posts
Discussion Starter #126
They sold you a L98 TPi 350 water pump
A 10si Alternator.
The Starter is a SBC Staggard bolt pattern too.

Not For LS.
Thanks again for the heads up.
JEGS is shipping out a correct water pump and alternator as they agreed that they made a mistake. On the starter they are telling me that it will bolt up to an LS.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
280 Posts
Discussion Starter #127
I will start off by saying how well Jegs handled my issue with having the wrong parts. After dealing with customer service they emailed me a shipping label and sent out the correct parts.

I picked up my parts the same day I got a call to pickup my powder coated parts. The coater did a good job and it was very reasonably priced. The color isn't a dead on match to the body but I don't expect to many people standing next to the car to focus on the color instead of what's under the hood. That's sort of like how many times people say they posted up pictures of their cars but most guys only see a picture of a beautiful woman.









 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
280 Posts
Discussion Starter #128
Long Overdue Update

I have a bit of an update that I have held of on while I waited for some information from a couple of the companies I am working with. During the time I have been accumulating parts and planning what I can do to keep moving forward. Just a heads up, this is just a final mock up with a dummy block, this is not my LSX motor, more news on that later on.

I have had many one step forward and then wait for new/missing/correct parts. One of the parts that I needed to change was the drysump pump from ARE. This new pump is a 4-stage pump that still uses the LS1 pan that I previously bought from ARE. The pump uses an HTD system (cog style belt) with a collet for tightening on the pump shaft. From there I had an issue getting the ATI Damper hub for the Vortech to line up to the pulley on the drysump pump. ARE didn’t have a solution, ATI didn’t have a solution and ATI was way to busy to make me a custom hub. I finally managed to get the right hub from another customer of my engine builder, the same guy who built a LS motor with the same supercharger. The only thing I need now is a slightly longer belt for the pulley.
I ordered the alternator with bracket/pulleys/tensioner/bolts that were on the 2013 Camaro because it didn’t use a power steering pump, just like my setup. The problem was it wasn’t lining up with my water pump. I ended up exchanging the Corvette style water pump for Meziere’s electric water pump. When the pump arrived, I was stoked, so after a long day at work I went to install the Meziere pump. Guess what it didn’t line up either. I needed to get the 1.75” spacers from Meziere so I placed my order. When it arrived back down stairs to do the install and guess what I discovered? Meziere sells me 1.75” spacers but they don’t ship the longer bolts needed. In fact, they don’t even sell the longer bolts period. Off to a hardware store the next day and buy some bolts. Went home and installed the pump and then it was time for the serpentine belt to go on. AND GUESS WHAT FREAKING HAPPENED?
It fit. All of the waiting and more waiting and watching it all line up was a sweet thing.



Next up, installing the custom motor mount to see if the new drysump pump fit, it didn’t. While one area was close there was still the issue of a proper fit and having the fitting’s all line up. So, I thought let’s see how close it was. Here is how close it was.



Here is my slight butchering mod to see what I needed to do. At this point I thought I was looking at getting front/rear engine plates to use as motor mounts.





The surprise came yesterday when the owner of a fabrication shop came to the house to look over the project and he said he can make the mount work with some enhancement to the remaining supports. I admit I liked hearing that.
After I had that all done, I needed to find out the burning question, will the S/C fit in my engine bay because I don’t quite have the same space as a 2013 Camaro. So, I mounted this beauty…



Keep in mind I am mounting all of these components using minimal bolts, so I don’t have to dismantle everything when something doesn’t work out. I mean, it’s not like things ever go sideways for me, right? Here is the modified motor mount waiting for the engine to be put in place.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
280 Posts
Discussion Starter #129
continued

Here was my first sideways issue, the anchor point, for part of the body parts. Good thing that was designed to be moved and it was two small bolts.



Next issue, this looks a bit tight from this angle!



Crap, it looks tight from this angle too.



It looks even worse from this angle as neither the water pump or S/C are clearing.



Lesson learnt that day was the engine can’t be dressed before I lower it into the engine bay, so I started to remove the water pump and S/C. The upside is the fabricator is going to modify the front support area so that it is removable to allow the engine to be re & re’ed without undressing everything. I am glad I didn’t use all the bolts for the install. Another part of the problem is where the engine sits, which is far back as the firewall Lesson was pushed back. Here is the engine now being lower into the engine bay.





The engine is almost in place but now I have a clearance issue with the shaft on the steering rack. Keep in mind that I chose the stock alternator and bracket from the 2013 Camaro to keep everything lined up with the Vortech kit that I bought.



The good news is the fabricator has several ideas that he’s going to try, and he is confident that he can make it work.
Now that the engine is almost set on the motor mount, I need to answer that burning question, will the S/C clear the tube for the roll cage…




No, it doesn’t fit so I’m thinking, this sucks. So, I talked to Jim at Richmond engines and he said that it’s simple cut the tube, the fabricator will deal with it. Jim didn’t have to tell me twice.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
280 Posts
Discussion Starter #130
continued





The next step was to mount the S/C so I could see how the charge tubing was going to fit in the space I have. It turns out that it didn’t like being at 3 o’clock because the tubing was to close to the wheel and steering was going to be completely compromised, so I had to re-clock the S/C. I can’t say I was too thrilled, with taking apart the S/C but, after a call to Vortech and talking to a technician I was ready to do what he told me to do. It turns out that it is really easy to clock this S/C. This picture gives you a close up of the impeller of this S/C and I think it looks like a work of art. There is also a picture of where the tube needs to sit to clear the tire.







Here is a picture of the clearance between my water pump/S/C and my radiator. Plenty of room for my electric fan(s) but not enough room for my drysump oil tank which will be remotely mounted in the backseat area of my car.



Next is the air to air cooler from Vortech which has big 3” outlets. Because of the space between the intercooler and the radiator I am considering another, fan(s) for the intercooler. I will consult with people who have more knowledge than I do.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
280 Posts
Discussion Starter #131
continued

Next up is a few pictures of some of the supporting components for the HP this car will make. There is the Wilson LS7 intake, the Brodix BR 7 BS 300-B cylinder heads (there is a pic of the valve train specs too) and the Holley 105mm throttle body. On top of the heads I have GM Performance LSX valve covers (the victory red LSX was my doing) which are no longer sold by GM. Looking at the pictures and you can get a good idea of how far back the engine sits. You can also see why I chose the Wilson intake because it fits the space that I have, and it is rated for 1500HP+.









There are also a couple of pictures of the charge piping, but I still need to buy some additional piping to get everything to line up in my engine bay.









The next couple of pictures I took yesterday. I still have to solder the connections. I am going to use the weather pack connections that I scavenged from the original wiring from my car. I am not very experienced doing the soldering so if any of you have good advice/instructions, I am all ears.





I have many other parts that I haven’t add to my picture files. I have all of the wiring harnesses needed to complete the Holley Dominator EFI system. I also have nearly 95% of all parts that bolt to the engine. All internal parts are being bought by the engine builder. At this point I have pre-paid Jim $18,000. for building the engine Including all of my time painting his shop at the beginning of the year and this doesn’t include all of those external components that I have bought from JEGS. I have had people ask me why I would ‘pre-pay’ when everyone else ripped me off in the past. The answer is simple, Richmond Racing Engines is a reputable shop and I have seen his work from the engines being built as well as when they are run on the engine dyno. All, of his work is top notch and he has a long reputation for being honest. Jim evens supports street legal racing by paying the top prize at the 604 Street Legal drag racing series. That means a lot to me. Jim has also referred me to Dwain from Kremyr Racing, the fabrication shop that is going to do the many things that I do not have the skills to do. That work includes the engine mount, the steering rack issues, completing the headers the last guy started, mounting the radiator and intercooler, making a new fuel cell to fit in conjunction with the wheelie bars, the parachute mount, the front support modification and the funny cage bars to allow for a 7.5 second certification. We talked about possibly doing the funny cage bars later and his opinion was that if the car can run that time then we do the bars now not later. Dwain also has a body shop that can deal with my front fenders/body kit that needs to be adjusted to make up for changing the wheel base from 103” to 104.5” which was an issue. I have a certain amount $$ set aside and I will be working my ass off so I will have the rest when it’s time to pay. The good/bad news is that Dwain can’t start until the beginning of July. Bad news because of the delay, good news because it allows me to do the work that I can perform so that we are (fingers crossed) ready to have this car make it to the race track this year. I have worked long hours this past year and I’m going further into debt to finish this project because I am too stupid/stubborn to quit, you choose which one it is.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
280 Posts
Discussion Starter #133

·
Banned
Joined
·
5,331 Posts
That is going to be a very sweet day and video will be taken. :)
Yes. You have been working on this project a long time.

Be sure to use a Cone race air Filter K&N or similar.
Seen Billet Impellor upgrade.
Dust errodes fast if left open.

Only want to leave air cleaner off for Hero Runs Records to set at the Track.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
280 Posts
Discussion Starter #135
Yes. You have been working on this project a long time.

Be sure to use a Cone race air Filter K&N or similar.
Seen Billet Impellor upgrade.
Dust errodes fast if left open.

Only want to leave air cleaner off for Hero Runs Records to set at the Track.
Yes it has been a long time getting to this point.

Thanks for the heads up about the impeller. Clocking the S/C was all of 6 bolts, pull apart, rotate and re-assemble. I only took the pictures and immediately put it back together.

I still have to order the inlet tube/air filter as Vortech doesn't include those for this kit simply because of the unique requirements required for this blower. The molded plastic inlet pipe that comes with the Camaro kit isn't big enough as I have 4" inlet to connect to. I am hoping to have enough space under the hood to run the filter to sit where the driver's side fog lamp goes.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
5,331 Posts
Yes it has been a long time getting to this point.

Thanks for the heads up about the impeller. Clocking the S/C was all of 6 bolts, pull apart, rotate and re-assemble. I only took the pictures and immediately put it back together.

I still have to order the inlet tube/air filter as Vortech doesn't include those for this kit simply because of the unique requirements required for this blower. The molded plastic inlet pipe that comes with the Camaro kit isn't big enough as I have 4" inlet to connect to. I am hoping to have enough space under the hood to run the filter to sit where the driver's side fog lamp goes.
Been a while since we chatted last.
I used to work with a young guy Donny in a Full Drag Race shop in Chicago next to Route 66 Raceway.
He Loved those Cobalts.
Told me of them running 6s in 1/4 mile overseas at tracks.
Small Car.
Big Power.

Strap in....Hang On !

Faster than any Dodge today !
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
280 Posts
Discussion Starter #137
I know there are other Cobalt's out there but stock body (shell/doors/glass) are not in my local area yet to my knowledge.

Strap in and hang on is definitely my plan when I get to race this car. I am going to have the power to get in the 6's but our local NHRA chassis inspector says that I can only get a 7.5 second certification, (once the funny cage bars are installed) because too much would need to be changed to go faster.

So, the plan is to only use as much boost as it takes to hit 7.50. The estimated weight is going to be 2300lbs with me in the car. It is going to be a wild ride which I can hardly wait for. :cheers:
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
5,331 Posts
I know there are other Cobalt's out there but stock body (shell/doors/glass) are not in my local area yet to my knowledge.

Strap in and hang on is definitely my plan when I get to race this car. I am going to have the power to get in the 6's but our local NHRA chassis inspector says that I can only get a 7.5 second certification, (once the funny cage bars are installed) because too much would need to be changed to go faster.

So, the plan is to only use as much boost as it takes to hit 7.50. The estimated weight is going to be 2300lbs with me in the car. It is going to be a wild ride which I can hardly wait for. :cheers:
I have rode shotgun a few times in 8 second cars with 5-point race harness on.
Full Bore 1/4 mile passes.
It's a Feeling and thrill all its own.

True Godspeed.

Weak will Die.

Can only imagine a 6-second pass.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
280 Posts
Discussion Starter #139
I have rode shotgun a few times in 8 second cars with 5-point race harness on.
Full Bore 1/4 mile passes.
It's a Feeling and thrill all its own.

True Godspeed.

Weak will Die.

Can only imagine a 6-second pass.
When I did the NHRA drag racing at Frank Hawley's I managed a 9:11 second pass at 149.56 mph on my last run and still to this day I break out in a huge smile when I remember those full run passes. On that last run the pungent aroma of burnt rubber gave way to a launch at 3500 rpms and an idea of what is still to come when it's my own car.

For anyone who wants to have that type of experience, with out the cost of building your own car, I whole heartedly recommend attending a course like I did. That smile can never be taken away from you and it is worth every dollar spent. ;)
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
5,331 Posts
When I did the NHRA drag racing at Frank Hawley's I managed a 9:11 second pass at 149.56 mph on my last run and still to this day I break out in a huge smile when I remember those full run passes. On that last run the pungent aroma of burnt rubber gave way to a launch at 3500 rpms and an idea of what is still to come when it's my own car.

For anyone who wants to have that type of experience, with out the cost of building your own car, I whole heartedly recommend attending a course like I did. That smile can never be taken away from you and it is worth every dollar spent. ;)
2019 is going to be an exciting year for drag car guys, Musclecars, and Corvette Owners.
No Prep Racing at Tracks are in.
Timeclocks are off.
Launch pad is not pre-prepped with VHT track glue.
At night the Track is cold.
Driver skill becomes paramount.
Will allow the Little guys to compete and a chance to win.

600-800 Hp can beat a 1400-3000 Hp car.

Still going to need decent track gearing for 1/8 mile or 1/4 mile.
Right tires too.

Just like Street Racing At night but legal at tracks.

Timeclocks off leaves most guessing how fast.
But Veterans like us know how fast each is.
 
121 - 140 of 185 Posts
Top