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Also all high dollar bracket racing electronics and air shifters become worthless.
Constant Computer Data log skewed up.

Comes down to the Human mind and will to win.
 

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Discussion Starter #142
Also all high dollar bracket racing electronics and air shifters become worthless.
Constant Computer Data log skewed up.

Comes down to the Human mind and will to win.
Comes down to the Human mind and will to win.
I am a fan of heads up racing and I can't say that bracket racing thrills me. I understand the concept but why not just line up people according to HP and then just race.
 

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I am a fan of heads up racing and I can't say that bracket racing thrills me. I understand the concept but why not just line up people according to HP and then just race.
I think it started off that way.
Heads up similar spec cars.
Track promoters came up with Bracket Racing for a different racing Venue.
Caught on worldwide.
Innovations and electronics came in.
Guys can win $10k - 200k legal bracket race

Sponsors pay out big if you win too.

Kinda of a free ride if you can get into and win.
 

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There

There is a National point race also.

We were #2 Nationwide Dirt Track Race Street Stock back 2010-2011.

Points Race .
 

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Bracket racers actually Behave Real Bad.
Serious money on the Line.
Some have $200k into.
Goal is to Fick with your opponents and make them ****up so you can Win the Money.
 

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There is Foot Brake Bracket Racing also.
Popular at some tracks.
No electronics allowed.
True Heads up.
Auto trans or manual stick only.
I have tried and bracket raced in my 70 TA years back.
It's alot harder than most think to win.
Racing reaction times and other variables like atmospheric changes Sunrise to Sunset.
It's A good way to Hone your personal racing skills.

Old Drum brake cars do better.
Auto trans.
Actually have superior holding power power braking before tires break loose.
Discs easily over powered most up in tire smoke.
 

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Discussion Starter #147
Can't argue with that kind of prize money except to say that with all of the electronics doing the 'work' where is the fun in it? I'm not going out to win championships, I just want to get out there and have some fun. but I want to be the driver, not a glorified passenger sitting at the steering wheel. Pretty much the same reason I am never buying in to a 'self' driving car.
 

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Can't argue with that kind of prize money except to say that with all of the electronics doing the 'work' where is the fun in it? I'm not going out to win championships, I just want to get out there and have some fun. but I want to be the driver, not a glorified passenger sitting at the steering wheel. Pretty much the same reason I am never buying in to a 'self' driving car.
Something to look into.
They are actually Hardcore racers bracket guys.
Smart.
Lots of tricks under the hood and personal skills.

Can use Heads up Street No Prep too.
Street Outlaws use same tricks as bracket guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #149
I was talking with the engine builder yesterday and he made the call to scrap the plans to use the SCAT crank that I have. He's going to use the SCAT in a different motor that's making less HP. He has chosen instead to go with a Callies Compstar XL which has just been released very recently. The LS7 version allows for a longer snout which works better with my Vortech/drysump setup. The Callies crankshaft is also internally counter balanced and is designed for high boost and high rpms. The crankshaft will also be paired with Callies Compstar connecting rods. Here is a link if anyone wants to read up on the crankshaft. Callies Compstar CrankshaftOne of the best things about my talk with Jim from Richmond engines was the commitment to having this project at the race track this summer. He said while it would be later in the summer we will be at the track. The fabricator is a good friend of Jim's so they will co-ordinate both of their parts of the project. Next I will have to find someone locally who does wiring so I can get that finished up. I am not interested in towing my car from shop to shop so I will need someone willing to do the job in my garage on a weekend as that's about all the time it's going to take to button up the wiring/soldering.

I was just online and I was able to buy both OEM front fenders and a OEM base front bumper facia for $265.00 delivered to my door. These are donor parts that will be cut up to change the openings for the front tires. Because my wheel base was lengthened from 103" to 104.5" this body modification needs to be done to allow the tires to turn properly at the front as well as remove the extra 1.5" gap from behind the tires. The fabricator has a body shop that can do the non-steel welding at the front of the wheels while he will adjust the back part of the fenders. Getting this done was one of the big things on my list and I should have this done in time to put the whole car into a primer coat by the end of May. :)

The next few months are going to be fun but I have to finish painting the house first (for my wife, I'm a painter by trade) and we have 16 days in Maui at months end. When we get back it is project time all the way as my wife will be big time happy by then. :)
 

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I was talking with the engine builder yesterday and he made the call to scrap the plans to use the SCAT crank that I have. He's going to use the SCAT in a different motor that's making less HP. He has chosen instead to go with a Callies Compstar XL which has just been released very recently. The LS7 version allows for a longer snout which works better with my Vortech/drysump setup. The Callies crankshaft is also internally counter balanced and is designed for high boost and high rpms. The crankshaft will also be paired with Callies Compstar connecting rods. Here is a link if anyone wants to read up on the crankshaft. Callies Compstar CrankshaftOne of the best things about my talk with Jim from Richmond engines was the commitment to having this project at the race track this summer. He said while it would be later in the summer we will be at the track. The fabricator is a good friend of Jim's so they will co-ordinate both of their parts of the project. Next I will have to find someone locally who does wiring so I can get that finished up. I am not interested in towing my car from shop to shop so I will need someone willing to do the job in my garage on a weekend as that's about all the time it's going to take to button up the wiring/soldering.

I was just online and I was able to buy both OEM front fenders and a OEM base front bumper facia for $265.00 delivered to my door. These are donor parts that will be cut up to change the openings for the front tires. Because my wheel base was lengthened from 103" to 104.5" this body modification needs to be done to allow the tires to turn properly at the front as well as remove the extra 1.5" gap from behind the tires. The fabricator has a body shop that can do the non-steel welding at the front of the wheels while he will adjust the back part of the fenders. Getting this done was one of the big things on my list and I should have this done in time to put the whole car into a primer coat by the end of May. :)

The next few months are going to be fun but I have to finish painting the house first (for my wife, I'm a painter by trade) and we have 16 days in Maui at months end. When we get back it is project time all the way as my wife will be big time happy by then. :)
Try and find a guy that Wires up Race Cars for a living.
Preferred Pro Stock Drag Cars.

It's usually done by Bid Jobs.

I will do X work for $500, $1k , $2 k...ect.
Negotiate.
 

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Discussion Starter #151
Try and find a guy that Wires up Race Cars for a living.
Preferred Pro Stock Drag Cars.

It's usually done by Bid Jobs.

I will do X work for $500, $1k , $2 k...ect.
Negotiate.
Thanks for that suggestion, I will do that.
 

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Discussion Starter #152
Where I got this thread title from.

For those of you that have looked at this thread I have an original GM tv commercial (thanks you tube) that is in fact where my thread title came from. Enjoy this little blast from the past. :)

 
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Discussion Starter #154
My spare fenders and the front bumper surround have come in.

I have an appointment to drop them off on Monday so that everything can be reworked to move the wheel openings ahead by 1.5" to compensate for the stretched wheel base.

I am hoping they will be ready, after my Hawaiian vacation, at the middle of May. Once these are done I will be doing a full coat of primer and getting the car ready to send to the fabricator.

Considering the price I paid for these parts the quality is sufficient to do what I need as once they are cut up the remaining sections head to the recyclers.

And yes I know that isn't a SS front bumper surround but I only need the section that lines up to the fenders.





 
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Discussion Starter #155
UPDATE TIME

Some cool things are going to be happening in short order. To start with the front fenders and bumper are being reworked to match the 104.5" wheelbase that the car now has. The tires had to much gap at the back of the wheels and too little at the front of the wheels which hindered steering. The included pictures show the added pieces as we test fit them before the final welding. This was a time consuming process and a bit more $$ than expected but there was no way around this modification. The fenders are now back at the shop and the final welding will be done and the modification to the front bumper will be completed. I am hoping to get the car all primed before it goes to the fabricator, which is the next update part.

The car goes to the fabricator in 3 weeks from Monday. At that shop modifications will be done to the roll cage under the hood to allow the supercharger to fit in its position. The funny cage bars will be welded into place, the headers will be completed by the welding of all the tubes and adding the Vibrant collectors. An aluminum fuel cell will be built to fit the space I have as when the chassis was first built we weren't planning on wheelie bars (4 cylinder torque)and now that we need wheelie bars we don't have the space with the plastic RCI fuel cell and protective metal cover. We need a support built for the parachute and the wing added to the spare trunk lid so we are ready for racing. We are also going to have a custom driveshaft built and if that's not enough I am sure something else will pop up.

Next, Jim at Richmond Racing Engines has most of the parts needed and next week the block starts getting machined to accommodate the .5" head studs, the 4.125 pistons and everything else we are going to need. Jim is paying special attention to all areas regarding oiling. I have patiently waited for my LSX bowtie block to move form the waiting room into the surgery room and Jim says that happens this coming week. Jim also has some addition work that he needs me to do for him which works out for both of us.

The downside is that this is not going to be cheap but as happened last year at this time I have been offered a huge extra on a project I am working on. The good news I can work as many hours as I want and my weeks will be 80 hours a week. I am going to do all that I can so the $$$ is there when I need to pay the shops. My time to work on the car is going to be really limited while I work all of this overtime but I am focused on actually having this project finished. I'm glad my wife is letting me slide on working around the house so this nightmare can finally end and a smile can be had for us and everyone else who has followed this project for 13 years.











 

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Discussion Starter #156
Update

While it was 2 months later than expected, the car is in primer and after a short haul the car is now at the shop of Kremyr racing . The deposit at Kremyr' wasn't cheap but I keep hearing that he's awesome at doing his job. This shop is the real deal when it comes to building race cars. Check out their website and for the locals, if you want something done right, call Dwain Kremyr. I was recommended to use Kremyr Racing by Jim at Richmond Racing Engines. These two companies work together and have done so for over 3 decades.

When the car is finished at the fabricators everything short of the engine will be completed. The roll cage (including the funny car bars), the aluminum fuel cell, the steering issues with regards to the alternator in the way of the lower steering knuckle, all of the wiring, the placement of the drysump tank, finishing the headers off and reworking the engine motor mount.

This next stage is going to cost $$$ but it needs to be done and my pain needs to finally be finished so the smile can be realized when I do my first smoke show in front of my house.
There is still a little reworking to be done on the front fenders but that is a 15 minute fix accordingly to the body shop.

When the car comes home I will still need to put back in the complete interior or as much as goes into a tubbed/tube chassis car.

That day was a good day.




 

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Discussion Starter #157
The next pictures are from a recent visit to Kreymr Racing.

I was expecting when I got to the shop that I was going to be asked for more money first thing. That didn't happen. In fact, I was shown the work that did happen.

I have to say, Kreymr Racing does awesome work. For anyone local Dwain is the man to do your work.

Dwain has finished the roll cage inside the car which includes the funny car bars around my head. Dwain also did the modification to the cage bar under the hood to accommodate the S/C unit.

Dwain also mounted the radiator, air 2 air intercooler and re-clocked the S/C unit to a better position. This allows me to keep everything under the stock hood.
We also talked abut some venting to help the air 2 air dissipate heat. Pictures of that as we move forward.















 

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Discussion Starter #158
These are the most recent pictures taken while I was at Kremyr Racing. Dwain asked me to drop off some parts and while I was there I took some pictures of what they has done in the past week.

They have been working on the steering rack.
They had to change the geometry/alignment to make way for the alternator which I need as a bolting spot for the Vortech S/C. Because I am only running the alternator off of the serpentine belt, Dwain re-positioned the alternator and we will get the different sized belt. All of the extra pulleys/tensioners are then added to my list of parts I need to sell.



If you look at the bare steel parts you will see the modification needed to allow for my drysump to mount where the A/C unit would be.


They have also been working on the charge piping for the S/C'er
The Vortech kit doesn't fit under my hood the same as it does under a stock '13 Camaro SS hood. However, Kremyr made easy work of making the needed piping that the kit didn't provide. Once I have powder coated the new pipe it will look like this kit was designed for this Cobalt SS.








This last picture shows how Dwain decided to provide more venting for the intercooler. Once it’s done it will look almost normal. My goal has always been to keep the body as stock as possible. Kremyr Racing also re-clocked the S/C so that everything sits under the stock hood.
 

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Discussion Starter #159
I have been talking to a race transmission expert and while my 2 speed Powerglide is race prepped with after market components it is still the stock housings. He doesn’t believe the stock housing can hold the type of pressure that my project needs for the expected HP level.


After checking in to the various transmission I had talked with another expert. The higher the gear ratio the weaker the transmission. The 180° gear ratio is rated to somewhere between 600-800 HP. That's not enough for me. I did find a Rossler Terminator 6 on RacingJunk.com. This transmission exceeds what my upper limits are and is a top-notch product.

I will also order the Mark Williams coated billet yoke for this transmission. The transmission is ready for pickup and soon off it goes to the fabricators. The transmission details are what follows:

ROSSLER Terminator 6 - Powerglide:
- ROSS-LOCK Pro Tree transbrake
- Oversized billet steel clutch hub
- 10 clutch Promod drum
- Max surface HD band
- Front pump low friction bearing kit
- Sonnax Super Hold Servo
- Billet aluminum dual ring servo
- Modified front pump converter charge system
- Pump gear lube system
- 1.69 Promod straight cut gears - cryo treated option
- Vasco billet output shaft
- REID RACING 2-piece SFI case
- REID RACING SFI GM/Chevy bellhousing
- REID RACING XHD tail housing with roller output bearing
- Rollerized entire case
- Deep finned cast aluminum pan, +2 quarts
- TH400 style oversized bolt-on stator tube
- "NASA" A
BONUSES and upgrades that come with the transmission:
- 1.69 Promod straight cut gears
- Cryogenic gear treatment option
- LOKAR locking dipstick - fluid level set by Rossler
- Temperature sensor bung welded to the oil pan
- Energy Suspension polyurethane transmission mount
- 6AN in/out trans cooler fittings

Next up for the project is the mounting of the drysump 2 gal US tank which Dwain believes they will manage to mount under the hood to the frame rail.

The project is finally making good headway. I stop in at Richmond Engines this week to see where we are with the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #160
Another piece of the puzzle has arrived into my hands, in fact 2 pieces of that puzzle. I have to say that the Reid case on the Rossler transmission is really nice. While it is strong enough to be SF! 4.1 and 30.1 certified it is light enough for me to pickup off the ground. I ordered a Mark Williams yoke and the u-joints today and once I have those they and the transmission go to Kremyr Racing and Dwain measures up the driveshaft length.It is obvious that this transmission as never been used before. With that said I did realize today that it will need to be re-certified sooner than a new one as it was built 09/16.The next part is needed to help me get in and out of the car easier. I was not originally going to use a quick release hub on my steering wheel but the funny cage bars changed that plan.







 
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