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Hey guys. We are and have been working on this C3. The stuff going into this car should make for a nice build. We have a crate motor from Chevrolet, a Tremec TKO, a Vintage air kit, a Vintage air Front Runner accessory drive kit, a FAST 2.0 EFI kit, and a whole bunch of other stuff to include rebuilding the suspension and a new interior. The car is looking pretty good so far..



The suspension has been rebuilt, the interior changed and the crate motor and tko trans have been installed along with the Front Runner accessory drive and DeWitts radiator and PWM fan with shroud..



It is now time to build the exhaust. This should prove to be challenging as we need to install electric cutouts.
 

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Here we are with the front section of pipe made and installed. The crossmember we are using for the tremec transmission has allowed me to keep the pipes straight..



And here is where I chose to mount the cutouts..



 

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Building symmetrical exhaust isn't hard. you just match your bends in the opposite direction and build both sides together..



But in order for it to come out looking the part and actually be symmetrical means this exhaust took time to build.
 

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And here is what we landed with..



The exhaust is 2.5" back to the cutouts and the cutouts are 2.5". But from there back I built everything with 2.25". This way there should be more of a difference in noise and performance with them open and closed. Here is all anybody else will see of this awesome exhaust..

 

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With exhaust cutouts or even sidepipes or any exhaust in a street application it is so important that the exhaust dump out behind the rear windows just to ensure that we aren't poisoning the driver at every stop light. The Corvette is a 2 seater and doesn't have rear windows but there is no mistaken that even when the dumps open and the car is sitting still with the windows down, the fumes will go back behind the open windows and not come up and choke out the driver..

 

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This project has already acquired a DUI(Dave's Unified Ignition) HEI distributor. But we are installing a FAST fuel system in this car and would very much like for it to be controlling timing. Fast as with most aftermarket efi controllers will not directly drive a coil and so if we want the aftermarket efi to control timing this generally means a CD box like the MSD 6a or 6al or equivalent. With this style setup the pickup coil from the distributor will be wired to the crank trigger input of the FAST controller and the points output of the fast controller will go to the points input of the CD box. This is the absolute largest possible footprint for a coil driver. lol.

For a clean appearance instead of the MSD box and all the wiring for it, I have an idea about using a much smaller coil driver. Here is my idea on paper..



This will allow the FAST controller to directly communicate with the distributor. So then the only other obstacle here is how to lock out the mechanical and vacuum advance. Then at the very end we will need to phase the distributor to ensure that when the pickup coil triggers the rotor is lined up with a tower. I am using a GM HEI distributor from an early EFI car. These would be the Cross-Fire and the Tuned Port fuel systems. These distributors were already locked out. So we want the shaft out of one of these distributors. Here are the 2 shafts next to each other. With and without mechanical advance..

 

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To lock out the vacuum advance I used parts that came with an MSD distributor. Later on when I go to phase the distributor I will play with this vacuum lockout to re clock the pickup coil and achieve the same end result of using an adjustable rotor in an MSD distributor..



With this configuration the 3 wire plug from the distributor will still go up to the cap and be untouched. We just have 3 more wires coming out of where the vacuum advance used to be. 1 wire goes to points output from the fast controller, and the other will go into the crank trigger of the fast controller. Simple and clean..



And we are ready to go back into the car and have that rotor phased. errr… I mean ...and have that pickup coil phased..

 

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You do very nice work. That is a sharp looking car.

How good are the crate 350's today. I have not used one since they went to Mexico 30 years ago. The USA Targetmasters I did use were actually pretty good engines and we pushed one very hard for years and it finally died a few weeks ago. It lasted through 2 broken 4 speeds, 2 broken 10 bolts, sheared spicer solids, and the valvetrain gave up but the bottom end was still good until a valve went through the piston.
 

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Ive helped at least 5 guys in the last 6 years install those crate 350/290 hp engines in cars, most guys have used the engines in daily transportation cars , a couple have upgraded the cam
to boost performance a bit, until recently I could get those engines for about $2k if you paid cash at the local chevy parts counter, but the manager I knew for decades retired,
now jegs is about the best deal

https://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Performance/809/19355658/10002/-1
 

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Crate 350/290

isnt this a terrible build?

TECH SPECS
Part Number: 19244450/19355659
Engine Type: Chevy Small-Block V-8
Displacement (cu in): 350
Bore x Stroke (in): 4.000 x 3.480
Block (P/N 10066034): Cast-iron with 4-bolt main caps
Crankshaft (P/N 10243070): Nodular iron
Connecting Rods (P/N 10108688): Powdered metal steel
Pistons (P/N 93422884): Cast-aluminum
Camshaft Type (P/N 3896962): Hydraulic flat tappet
Camshaft Lift (in): .450 intake /.460 exhaust
Camshaft Duration (@.050 in): 222° intake / 222° exhaust
Cylinder Heads (P/N 93438649): Iron; 76cc chambers

Valve Size (in): 1.94 intake / 1.50 exhaust
Compression Ratio: 8.0:1
Rocker Arms (P/N 10089648): Stamped steel
Rocker Arm Ratio: 1.5:1
Recommended Fuel: Regular pump
Ignition Timing: 34° Total @ 4,000 rpm
Maximum Recommended rpm: 5,100
Balanced: Internal
Intake Manifold (P/N 10185063): Dual Plane


sounds like miss matched parts to me
 

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We actually source ours directly from Chevrolet. We just took in another one today that we are gonna stuff into a 1993 Chevy pickup..





The price is right. It is new. And from the dealer it comes with a 2 year / 50k mile warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Crate 350/290

isnt this a terrible build?

TECH SPECS
Part Number: 19244450/19355659
Engine Type: Chevy Small-Block V-8
Displacement (cu in): 350
Bore x Stroke (in): 4.000 x 3.480
Block (P/N 10066034): Cast-iron with 4-bolt main caps
Crankshaft (P/N 10243070): Nodular iron
Connecting Rods (P/N 10108688): Powdered metal steel
Pistons (P/N 93422884): Cast-aluminum
Camshaft Type (P/N 3896962): Hydraulic flat tappet
Camshaft Lift (in): .450 intake /.460 exhaust
Camshaft Duration (@.050 in): 222° intake / 222° exhaust
Cylinder Heads (P/N 93438649): Iron; 76cc chambers

Valve Size (in): 1.94 intake / 1.50 exhaust
Compression Ratio: 8.0:1
Rocker Arms (P/N 10089648): Stamped steel
Rocker Arm Ratio: 1.5:1
Recommended Fuel: Regular pump
Ignition Timing: 34° Total @ 4,000 rpm
Maximum Recommended rpm: 5,100
Balanced: Internal
Intake Manifold (P/N 10185063): Dual Plane


sounds like miss matched parts to me
I have been doing just this for 9 years, now. I already know how all this will come out because we have built all this before just with a jasper rebuild instead of a crate. Truth is the 5 speed TKO conversion makes the car feel a lot more peppy all on it's own. In this thread we have already done all our stuff to the white 1981 to include a jasper engine, a new complete interior with carpets and insulation, Vintage air, Tremec TKO 5 speed with hydraulic clutch, and this thread was about upgrading the fuel system from the edlebrock carb to the same FAST kit: https://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=255809

That was right around this time 4 years ago. Wild, huh?
 
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