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I am planning on putting a 10" subwoofer, door speakers and possibly tweeters in my car. I wanted to see those of you who have built custom sub boxes and custom kick panels..if you guys could post pictures of your custom audios, that would be great.
 

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I am planning on putting a 10" subwoofer, door speakers and possibly tweeters in my car. I wanted to see those of you who have built custom sub boxes and custom kick panels..if you guys could post pictures of your custom audios, that would be great.

I've done a lot of these C3 systems, and my best advice is to keep things simple. The kick panels don't have to be fiberglass works, as the stock panels can be modified for 6.5" speakers. You also don't have to run a component system with mounted tweeters. Coaxial speakers can be very good if chosen wisely.

Here are a few pics and some descriptions.

Here is my head unit. I found one I liked, and built the system around it. I like Kenwood Excelon systems.



Here are the custom kick panels I use. I do have a component system, and I have the tweeters mounted in the door panel manual window crank holes. The key with tweeters is keeping them near the mid-woofer. Also pictured are some stock panels modified for speakers.







Here is the sub I chose. It's large and powerful. Might be a touch more than most people want, but I like low frequencies with my music, and it takes a sub with a lot of power and a lot of linear travel to get the frequencies I like.




Here is a pic of the rear storage compartment. As you can see I have my amp mounted to the back wall, the sub tucked away in the corner, and I still have room for the T-tops. In this image I hadn't loomed the amp wiring yet so it's kind of an eyesore right now. I also Dynamatted the underside of the deck above the sub.

Less powerful subs and amps can be used, and if a smaller amp is chosen it can even be hidden in the jack compartment.




Here is a pic of a stock grill mounted with the Polk speaker in the car.



Let me know if you have any questions. I've done this enough to know what works and what doesn't and what's easy and what's simply not worth the effort. I'll say up front, I am not a fan of speaker bars and I do not like using rear speakers. I use front speakers and a sub for low frequencies.

:cheers:
 

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I am planning on putting a 10" subwoofer, door speakers and possibly tweeters in my car. I wanted to see those of you who have built custom sub boxes and custom kick panels..if you guys could post pictures of your custom audios, that would be great.
If you look in my pictures I have put in 2 8" Polk DB subs in the back, 2 Polk DB plates in the dash and 2 Polk DB 5.25's in the kick panels. I also have the amps mounted under the turtle deck on a swing down bar. The subs are in a box that is a little too small, but if you do a membrane on it with stuffing it works pretty well. The pictures give the basic idea, but keep in mind i have not finished it yet. I'm going to be taking the car apart and rebuilding it, I just wanted to have the music while I was waiting. There is also an Audiocontrol LC8i in the jack compartment. I'm using that to drive the amplifiers and it has an Ipod jack that I have ran to the ashtray. If you look in the car you cannot see any of it, you have to look under the rear compartment to see anything and I have not lost any space in the compartment. Let me know if you have any questions.
 

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check mine out

this is the set up in my vette.
although i would like to take credit for it. i can't as it came with the car. if the pics aren't clear the box is covered in tweed.







thnx
J
 

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Since we're on the subject :smack
What do you think about mounting just a tweeter in the stock speaker (on the dash) location? Pointing up at the windshield?
Then (like in your pics) mounting a 6.5" speaking in the kick panels?

That was the idea I've been toying with. It may be a while before I get to the interior, but no harm in planning now.

Here is what I bought so far;
http://cca.madvettemotorsports.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=119
And I figured some creative Dynamat Extreme or Hushmat, should insulate the sounds pretty good in the C3.


I was looking at this for a 10" sub and Amp rack combo:
http://cca.madvettemotorsports.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=121

I was probably going to end up with an Alpine or Pioneer HU with a motorized display and back up camera. Then go with Diamond Audio 10" sub with Amp.
I like the music to come from the front as well, but I was going to have the 6x9's in the back, but turned WAY down....to act as a filler.

Am I going in the right direction?
 

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Since we're on the subject :smack
What do you think about mounting just a tweeter in the stock speaker (on the dash) location? Pointing up at the windshield?
Then (like in your pics) mounting a 6.5" speaking in the kick panels?

That was the idea I've been toying with. It may be a while before I get to the interior, but no harm in planning now.

Here is what I bought so far;
http://cca.madvettemotorsports.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=119
And I figured some creative Dynamat Extreme or Hushmat, should insulate the sounds pretty good in the C3.


I was looking at this for a 10" sub and Amp rack combo:
http://cca.madvettemotorsports.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=121

I was probably going to end up with an Alpine or Pioneer HU with a motorized display and back up camera. Then go with Diamond Audio 10" sub with Amp.
I like the music to come from the front as well, but I was going to have the 6x9's in the back, but turned WAY down....to act as a filler.

Am I going in the right direction?

Tweeters in the dash, firing up at the glass, cause two problems. First, they are off-axis with the mid-woofers. Your brain will pick up the differences and sound 'odd'. The other problem is that high frequencies bouncing off of glass tend to get harsh and might start to hurt your ears before the volume of the mids is up high enough to enjoy.

Sound deadening material is always recommended. Heat barriers should be lined over the deadener, under the carpet. Some carpet already comes with Jute on the underside, and that's fine for most heat barrier applications.

The amp rack is a good design but that sub location isn't optimal. You'll want a surface for the sound waves to bounce off of about 8" to 12" from the sub cone. This will get you the best results. Typically that's why under the rear deck is the preferred location.

Head units choices are all personal preference at this point based on what features you are looking for. Diamond makes great subs and speakers, though they are pricey. I have found better quality for lower prices with other brands.

Finally, rear fill. It's a hotly debated subject. I have done both, in everything from sedans to coupes to 2 seater roadsters. I personally think rear fill is a complete waste. A good sub will cancel the need for any 'bass' to be had from a 6x9" speaker, and as far as highs go, your front speakers should be up to that task or the wrong components were picked.

Think of it this way...when you go to a concert...do you sit backwards? Where's the band? That's just how our brains prefer sound. Balanced and directional. A well chosen set of coaxials can be tuned properly and sound just as good or better than components. I recommend coaxial speakers over components for most builds just to keep things simple and keep costs down.
 

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D_B, I definently like the 6.5's that you have in your kick panels. thats what i want. And for the sub, I have seen people build custom sub boxes that fit over the wheel well, starting at the seatbelt retractor and going back all the way to the back of the deck area. Would this still provide good sound? here is the 10" sub i am putting in: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SWE1043/Alpine-SWE-1043.html?tp=111

And as far as the amp goes, can it be mounted underneath one of the seats? i am trying to save as much space as possible (thats why i asked about the custom sub box over the wheel well)
 

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D_B, I definently like the 6.5's that you have in your kick panels. thats what i want. And for the sub, I have seen people build custom sub boxes that fit over the wheel well, starting at the seatbelt retractor and going back all the way to the back of the deck area. Would this still provide good sound? here is the 10" sub i am putting in: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SWE1043/Alpine-SWE-1043.html?tp=111

And as far as the amp goes, can it be mounted underneath one of the seats? i am trying to save as much space as possible (thats why i asked about the custom sub box over the wheel well)

Just remember that your box needs to be built very solid...thick, and fully enclosed. In a box that small you'll have to keep it sealed. Make it deep enough for the sub, and you can dip under the recommended air space using poly fill in the box with the sub to 'fool' it with the smaller space.

If you don't mind me saying, stay away from the Alpine 'E' type. Of the five types of Alpine subs...or models, the 'E' is the lowest level. IMHO a complete waste of money.

If I might suggest a similarly priced sub that will perform worlds better...

http://www.woofersetc.com/p4904/RE10--RE-Audio-10"-250-Watt-Dual-4-Ohm-RE-Series-Subwoofer.htm
 

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Search for this thread and you'll see my install photos:


Sub install: I keep all the cargo space.....



 

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AUdio Pictures

Here is my version of the amp and 6X9's. Nothing expensive, but sound great. I will also post the rear sub which is in the jack compartment. Have fun!
 

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D_B, I definently like the 6.5's that you have in your kick panels. thats what i want. And for the sub, I have seen people build custom sub boxes that fit over the wheel well, starting at the seatbelt retractor and going back all the way to the back of the deck area. Would this still provide good sound? here is the 10" sub i am putting in: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SWE1043/Alpine-SWE-1043.html?tp=111

And as far as the amp goes, can it be mounted underneath one of the seats? i am trying to save as much space as possible (thats why i asked about the custom sub box over the wheel well)
It won't fit under the seat without some serious cutting, mount it under the turtle deck so you can't see it just by looking in. Why the 10"? An 8" is easier to fit and generally requires less enclosure volume.
 

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Since we're on the subject :smack
What do you think about mounting just a tweeter in the stock speaker (on the dash) location? Pointing up at the windshield?
Then (like in your pics) mounting a 6.5" speaking in the kick panels?

That was the idea I've been toying with. It may be a while before I get to the interior, but no harm in planning now.

Here is what I bought so far;
http://cca.madvettemotorsports.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=119
And I figured some creative Dynamat Extreme or Hushmat, should insulate the sounds pretty good in the C3.


I was looking at this for a 10" sub and Amp rack combo:
http://cca.madvettemotorsports.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=121

I was probably going to end up with an Alpine or Pioneer HU with a motorized display and back up camera. Then go with Diamond Audio 10" sub with Amp.
I like the music to come from the front as well, but I was going to have the 6x9's in the back, but turned WAY down....to act as a filler.

Am I going in the right direction?
Tweeters need to be in the same proximaty as the main speakers. Putting the tweeters in the dash and the 6.5 in the kick panels will not sound good. I'd put them no more than a foot apart from each other and all firing the same direction. :thumbsup:

I put 6x9 in the rear corners in custom enclosures, after doing this I realized I could have hid 6.5 round speakers in the stock rear locations for a cleaner look and matched the front easier and for less money. The sound is really no different and the round may even be more clear. If you're using a sub, there is also no need for the 6x9 over a good round speaker in the rear.

If you want speakers in the factory dash holes, they make some nice 4x6 plate speakers that fit right in. I installed a set of 2 way plates in the dash, three way 6.5 in the kick panels, 3 way 6x9 in the rear and a 10 inch sub with an Alpine HU.
:cheers:
 

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It won't fit under the seat without some serious cutting, mount it under the turtle deck so you can't see it just by looking in. Why the 10"? An 8" is easier to fit and generally requires less enclosure volume.

Typically, 8" subs have very low travel, or excursion, or Xmax...as it's called in the industry.

Low Xmax means bass in simple terms.

Subs that have high excursion will do more with less power and less surface area.

Say you have a 10" sub with 20mm Xmax, and an RMS rating of 300 watts. It'll sound better than a 12" sub with 10mm Xmax, and 600 watts RMS.

The same could be said for an 8" sub, however, manufacturers don't spend a lot of time or money developing 8" subs with high levels of Xmax.

Usually they have less than 10mm, and that's getting into a very dull territory and it's almost more of a mid than a sub, and it defeats the purpose of installing a sub.

Ironically, because of the above reasons, I generally will never use a sub larger than 10".
 

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Typically, 8" subs have very low travel, or excursion, or Xmax...as it's called in the industry.

Low Xmax means bass in simple terms.

Subs that have high excursion will do more with less power and less surface area.

Say you have a 10" sub with 20mm Xmax, and an RMS rating of 300 watts. It'll sound better than a 12" sub with 10mm Xmax, and 600 watts RMS.

The same could be said for an 8" sub, however, manufacturers don't spend a lot of time or money developing 8" subs with high levels of Xmax.

Usually they have less than 10mm, and that's getting into a very dull territory and it's almost more of a mid than a sub, and it defeats the purpose of installing a sub.

Ironically, because of the above reasons, I generally will never use a sub larger than 10".
Polk MM series are 20 mm with f response to 26 hz, the ones I am using are the DB series but only have 6 mm with f of 30. Mine require a sealed enclosure the MM do not. I however like the tight response compared to the booming. If I have the choice of going with an 8 and an enclosure that is sized correctly compared to a 10 with an enclosure that is too small, I would rather have the 8 and they are plenty for the small interior.
 

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I however like the tight response compared to the booming.

This says it all and you're completely right. Your preferences put you closer to or in the mid range, where things are tighter and more responsive.

People that want boom install subs, and they do it trying to achieve that boom...which you get from subs with a generous amount of linear travel.

:thumbsup:
 

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This says it all and you're completely right. Your preferences put you closer to or in the mid range, where things are tighter and more responsive.

People that want boom install subs, and they do it trying to achieve that boom...which you get from subs with a generous amount of linear travel.

:thumbsup:
I would not rule out the MM's with the travel and RMS of 250 especially given the space constraints. I had 10's in my camaro which obviously had a lot more room for a box.
 

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Polk MM series are 20 mm with f response to 26 hz, the ones I am using are the DB series but only have 6 mm with f of 30. Mine require a sealed enclosure the MM do not. I however like the tight response compared to the booming. If I have the choice of going with an 8 and an enclosure that is sized correctly compared to a 10 with an enclosure that is too small, I would rather have the 8 and they are plenty for the small interior.

:thumbsup::agree:
 

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I have two 4" x 6" two way speakers in the dash, two more in the kick panels for the highs and two 8" subs in the rear right behind the wheel wells for the mids. These are driven by an Alpine 150 watt x 4 channel amp. (600 watts total) I have a 12" sub hanging below the rear deck facing down driven by an Alpine 600 watt amp. Both amps are in the jack storage box. The head unit is Alpine also, with a remote. Sounds fantastic and will drown out the 3" chambered exhaust on my 383. I can't access my pictures from work, but I'm pretty sure there are some in there. Art
 

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Tweeters in the dash, firing up at the glass, cause two problems. First, they are off-axis with the mid-woofers. Your brain will pick up the differences and sound 'odd'. The other problem is that high frequencies bouncing off of glass tend to get harsh and might start to hurt your ears before the volume of the mids is up high enough to enjoy.

Sound deadening material is always recommended. Heat barriers should be lined over the deadener, under the carpet. Some carpet already comes with Jute on the underside, and that's fine for most heat barrier applications.

The amp rack is a good design but that sub location isn't optimal. You'll want a surface for the sound waves to bounce off of about 8" to 12" from the sub cone. This will get you the best results. Typically that's why under the rear deck is the preferred location.

Head units choices are all personal preference at this point based on what features you are looking for. Diamond makes great subs and speakers, though they are pricey. I have found better quality for lower prices with other brands.

Finally, rear fill. It's a hotly debated subject. I have done both, in everything from sedans to coupes to 2 seater roadsters. I personally think rear fill is a complete waste. A good sub will cancel the need for any 'bass' to be had from a 6x9" speaker, and as far as highs go, your front speakers should be up to that task or the wrong components were picked.

Think of it this way...when you go to a concert...do you sit backwards? Where's the band? That's just how our brains prefer sound. Balanced and directional. A well chosen set of coaxials can be tuned properly and sound just as good or better than components. I recommend coaxial speakers over components for most builds just to keep things simple and keep costs down.

I'm glad I asked, LOL.
I just feel like its a waste to have the dash speaker grills sitting there, unused! So, tweeter's AND 6.5" speakers in the door is ok?
Or; maybe tweeters in the door and a 6.5" in the kick panel?
Or; Just a 3-way 6.5" speaker in the kick panel?

I'm a fan of the "concert" effect as well. I've played with different "fade" options in cars before and worse case, the back of the car will looked "finished" with a pair of 6x9's in the trunk area along with a sub. I can figure out if I want them active or not after I get the system all done. Oh, and I already have the 6x9's, and they won't fit in any of my other cars...

That is exactly how I was going to do the deadner.
I was even looking into "Lizard Skin" as a deadner. But with Hushmat/Dynamat Extreme on the "body" of the car. Then the thermal insulation THEN the carpet, and I'm thinking I will have a nice and quiet driver! My g/f's Civic Si has Dynamat Extreme + Dyna Pad all over the floor and doors of the car...what a DIFFERENCE in not only the temperature of the interior, but the noise level as well! With the tinted windows, I put the A/C on "low" and I'm perfectly comfortable in that car with a sunny 100 degree day. I love it.

Sub location;
I'll keep that in mind. Maybe a custom box with a sub AND the 6x9's all-in-one is the way to go under that roll away partition thingy.

The guy that will ultimately install everything for me (I'm doing all the wiring for him when I do the new carpet kit install) has done a lot of work for me on other things and he is giving me some REALLY good prices on the Diamond Audio components. His thing is this; the 3 year warranty on there products! If something fails, he removes the item, replaces it with a brand new unit and charges $0 for all of it. And his prices are better then that website you posted earlier. So yeah, that's why I was heading that direction. Hey, I'm all about pinching some pennies, I appreciate you lookin out there :cheers:
 
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