Cutting the shroud???

9049 Views 20 Replies 10 Participants Last post by chucky7, Aug 1, 2008

AFAMack

Discussion Starter · Jun 4, 2007

I installed the K&N Aircharger in my C6, but I'm a little worried that the stupid plastic/rubber shroud in front of the radiators is choking my engine...

So... is there any simple way to remove this shroud?

Should I just cut it? If I do cut/remove it, will I be voiding any warranties?

Is the shroud there for a reason? It seems like just an extra part to me, but is it necessary to shield the radiators?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Mike:thumbsup:

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

Tony B

· #2 · Jun 4, 2007

When i installed the Vararam, part of the instructions is to cut the shroud,if you cut the shroud be very carefull and put some kind of cardboard back there. I would leave the shroud on there and just cut holes to allow fresh air to hit your filters:thumbsup:

AFAMack

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jun 4, 2007

I did notice that the Vararam instructions call for cutting the shroud with a box cutter...

that makes me a little nervous though since cutting it is permanent. I tried taking the shroud off, but its almost impossible without a lift.

Thanks for the advice though, Tony, I'll let you know what I decide to do.

Tony B

· #4 · Jun 4, 2007

Yeah its a pain in the A$$ to remove the shroud....Thats why i cut it in place,but i think that if you cut the shroud with a box cutter or some kind of hook knife and make say 2 holes the size of softballs you would be good to go. I believe the shroud serves a purpose with air hitting the radatior and the way the airflows, otherwise Vararam would have had us cut it right out:thumbsup: .

Tony B.

Whiterock1

· #5 · Jun 4, 2007

Push the bottom of the shroud back about 3" and you will get only outside air thru the grill and to the filter. It won't bother air deflected up to the condenscer/radiator, but will give 100 % cold, outside air to the filter media. There are two push pins to take out, and the holes in the shroud and the backside of the front clip where the pins went can be used to prop open the shroud. I used the drain popup rod that you get in faucet kits. Hold securely, look like they were intended to open the shroud, use two and it is perfectly symetrical--3" for about 20 " then tapers to the side of the shroud. Back to stock in 20 seconds, if you want. Best of all, you can do it in 5 minutes for $0:thud: . If you get to the Springs sometime, I'll meet you and show you my setup. :cheers:

AFAMack

Discussion Starter · #6 · Jun 4, 2007

Whiterock, thank you for the advice! Wish I had posted this thread sooner... I was in the springs about 3 days ago using the lifts at the academy to install my Borla. I might get down there before the summer is over. I'll let you know what my schedule is looking like.

Thanks again!

Mike:thumbsup:

Whiterock1

· #7 · Jun 5, 2007

AFAMack07 said:
Whiterock, thank you for the advice! Wish I had posted this thread sooner... I was in the springs about 3 days ago using the lifts at the academy to install my Borla. I might get down there before the summer is over. I'll let you know what my schedule is looking like.

Thanks again!

Mike:thumbsup:

Let me know. We can always meet at the Acadamy.

Mike (too :thumbsup: )

yell03

· #8 · Jun 5, 2007

AFAMack07 -

Just cut the lower air dam, the black plastic in between the radiator and the foglights on each side.

This will allow you nice cool ambient air up to you K&N.

Basically the same thing as the Haltech Stinger cold air system, but FREE.

I did this on my 2006 C6 manual coupe and that car with just a K&N aircharger and Magnaflow catback ran [email protected]

Howard

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AFAMack

Discussion Starter · #9 · Jun 5, 2007

Howard,

I just did it

had to use a hacksaw to get an even cut...

I looked at the instructions for the Halltech Cold Air option and this seems like the best FREE alternative (like you said). I only cut out the center part out, but i'm using the concept Whiterock mentioned also to push the shroud in a bit. I have about 3 inches of space where cold air can flow right in to the K&N.

Thanks for all the advice!

Mike:thumbsup:

yell03

· #10 · Jun 5, 2007

Sounds good!

Howard

Whiterock1

· #11 · Jun 5, 2007

AFAMack07 said:
Howard,

I just did it had to use a hacksaw to get an even cut...

I looked at the instructions for the Halltech Cold Air option and this seems like the best FREE alternative (like you said). I only cut out the center part out, but i'm using the concept Whiterock mentioned also to push the shroud in a bit. I have about 3 inches of space where cold air can flow right in to the K&N.

Thanks for all the advice!

Mike:thumbsup:

That should be plenty. The Halltech, K&N and Black Wing all have huge swept areas to draw cold air in, and getting outside air between the back of the front clip and the front of the radiator shroud will pressurize that area so that no underhood, hot air can can be drawn in if you're underway, and almost a ram air effect if you get on it. 1 degree cooler = 1 hp, so it should be worth an easy 10-15 hp thru the rev range when moving--the faster you go, the better, and that was always the key to ram air setups back in the day. Of course, obey all speed limits...:spanked:

opus1111

· #12 · Jun 6, 2007

Yeah, obey all speed limits. Heh heh heh. Ram air is cool (that was a pun).
:cheers: :cheers: :cheers:

AFAMack

Discussion Starter · #13 · Jun 6, 2007

:rolling:

WGMARQ

· #14 · Jun 22, 2008

Whiterock1 said:
Push the bottom of the shroud back about 3" and you will get only outside air thru the grill and to the filter. It won't bother air deflected up to the condenscer/radiator, but will give 100 % cold, outside air to the filter media. There are two push pins to take out, and the holes in the shroud and the backside of the front clip where the pins went can be used to prop open the shroud. I used the drain popup rod that you get in faucet kits. Hold securely, look like they were intended to open the shroud, use two and it is perfectly symetrical--3" for about 20 " then tapers to the side of the shroud. Back to stock in 20 seconds, if you want. Best of all, you can do it in 5 minutes for $0:thud: . If you get to the Springs sometime, I'll meet you and show you my setup. :cheers:

I know this is an old thread but do you have any pictures ?

Thanks in advance :cheers:

MIZ06

· #15 · Jun 22, 2008

With the Lingenfelter cold air intake system I bought the pre-cut shroud they offered, that way I kept the original intact.

jesse12804

· #16 · Jun 22, 2008

All the suggestions for opening the shroud are tried and true. You could have achieved the same results if you left your stock filters in and cut/opened the shroud.BIG FILTERS will do squat for power.

WGMARQ

· #17 · Jun 25, 2008

And this should help it suck in cool air.
It's the Halltech BeeHive.

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AFAMack

Discussion Starter · #18 · Jul 8, 2008

jesse12804 said:
All the suggestions for opening the shroud are tried and true. You could have achieved the same results if you left your stock filters in and cut/opened the shroud.BIG FILTERS will do squat for power.

I respectfully disagree... and I have the dyno results from my own car to prove it. My K&N netted me 7 RWHP.

Granted, 7 RWHP isn't that big of a deal... but it does show that big filters actually DO improve power

:cheers:

fmatic

· #19 · Jul 9, 2008

WGMARQ said:
And this should help it suck in cool air.
It's the Halltech BeeHive.

Would this work for LS2? I have one installed in my vette that I bought back in Feb 2006.

WGMARQ

· #20 · Jul 9, 2008

I think it would, but i'd give them a call to make sure. Here is some info from their website.

2006-2009 Z06 and 2008-2009 C6 LS3 make a "Beeline" down the 1/4 mile with Halltech's new Beehive™ Ram Air Induction. Featuring easy pop-in installation, black OEM finish and very minor cutting, this simple add-on mod will bring another 15 HP to your Z06 or C6 when on the road or track by keeping hot engine heat out of the intake. Halltech's all new Killer Beehive™ Ram Air Induction is a simple heat-shield designed to isolate the Killer Bee™ filter from underhood heat, but also rams massive amounts of cold dense air into the Beehive™ filter through two optional cutouts on the lower radiator deflector shield that will feed cold air to the sides of the Killer Bee filter. The stock Z06 NACA duct feeds the top of the filter, which for those that prefer not to cut their radiator shroud, will be sufficient to bring cold air into the Beehive.

http://www.halltechsystems.com/product_p/kbrais100.htm

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