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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34924


12 ton jack stands #34924

normally $80 for two, now on sale for $55 for two

now theres not much at harbor freight thats well worth the price but these are low tech and well worth the cost, Ive had 6 in the shop for years, they are just the correct height at the lowest setting to work under your car and FAR AWAY MUCH LARGER AND STEADIER, more heavily built, and not nearly as easy to tip the car over with when you use them as the cheap and more comon 3 and 6 ton jack stands most guys use

are you not going to feel like a morron if the car falls from some cheap bargin jack stand when for a few dollars more you could have had substantiaslly larger and strong and much more stabile stands under the frame?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
the 12 ton jack stands just went on sale again at HF,this week for $55 a pair
 

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I'm on it.

I will order a set for sure. I never do feel very safe with the 3 ton ones that I currently use.

What do you recommned for a low profile jack?

Sears had a really nice aluminum one - it's red and silver. I looked at it in person. Looked to be very heavy duty... It was almost $300.00

...any recomendations???
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i purchased (2) 3 ton sears floor jacks about 12 years ago, and they are still working fine (heavy as hell but they work) since I have not seen the jack in question ID ask if its got any garauntee.
 

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DDNZ06 My 12 ton Jack stands you have we used to put your headers on are from Harbor freight.
They are the same ones grumpy is talking about .
I purchased them about 10 years ago. Very nice to get your car up high.
I used those to R&R the trans on my C4 on my back a couple of times.
Can't beat them for the price..
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...000&cat=Mechanics+Tools&subcat=Lift+Equipment

I guess its only $179.00

What do you think? For this money is there a better product? I liked it when I saw it in person - but wasn't sure if there was something better out there...

thanks.


read the customer reviews, a high percentage of the purchasers think its TOTAL CHEAP junk


since your willing to spend $300 on one floor jack...ID buy one or better yet, TWO of these

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...TOOL&subcat=Lift+Equipment&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

EVERYONE LOVES THEM, yeah thier heavy but what good is light weight if it won,t work, and at a 4 ton rateing they have an extra safety margin

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
don,t forget to get 4 of the HF 12 ton jack stands, remember your BUTTS under that vette and unless you can do a one handed bench press with the vette ID advise makeing damn sure it cant ever tip/fall on you when your working under it...

btw a differant option

http://www.kwiklift.com/Options.htm
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
ANOTHER OPTION IS USE OF RAMPS BUT.. your average auto store ramps ,(especially the cheap stamped steel versions)are dangerous and won,t allow the corvettes low approch angle to drive up on them, get the tires centered off/center and they frequently bend or tip, the RINO RAMPS work ok, but are FAR from high enought or stabile enought for serious work, and they tend to skid as you try to roll up on them occasionally


heres some better options

http://www.chapmanenterprise.com/jack_rabbit.html

look closely at the details on these ramps, you could buy those or weld up something similar at reasonable cost and with custom dimensions

http://www.raceramps.com/store/shopexd.asp?id=62
much better but not nearly high enought for serious work

http://www.discountramps.com/sports_car_ramps.htm

http://www.discountramps.com/mini-sports-car-lift-ramps.jpg

much better
but still too low


http://www.kwiklift.com/

excellent value but expensive at $1600 for the heavy duty set Id suggest as its a small increase in price over the standard set

http://www.chapmanenterprise.com/products.html

these are made to YOUR specs if you want them custom
 

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Grumpy, I agree, cheap ramps are about as dangerous as concrete blocks. Looking at the other ramps in the post, the cost would equal or be higher than a good jack and 12 ton stands. For the money, I'd but the jack and stands, larger ramps take up more room in the garage and the only thing you can do with them is get the car up in the air, like you said sometimes not high enough. You can do other things with a jack like rolling a trans or diff. out from under a car.
For the guys who like ramps, go for it. I'm not a big fan.

On the Sears jack: I've seen 3 of them, fairly new with the seals leaking.
We use a HarborFreight ( believe it or not ) aluminum one in the shop and the Jeg's aluminum one in the race trailer. The HF works fine except the release is not smooth, it's can drop very fast. The Jeg's is great, quality is way above HF. Was $149 about 4 years ago.

Also, I've seen the Kwiklift, they work nice. For $400 more, you can get a good 4 post lift with a castor kit. That's going to be my next purchase.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
heres a thread on lifts, (below) lifts are great and I can,t belive I waited so long before getting one, but theres lots of times the (4) 12 ton jack stands under the cars frame and the mechanics creeper are every bit as easy to use

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80368

btw about 75%-90% of the stuff you see on sale at HF is not good quality, but there are a few exceptions, the 12 ton jack stands I think are in that few, that are decent quality, simply because the technology is old, the steel is cheap and theres a significant safety margin in useing a 12 ton rated jack stand on a car that will place less than 1800 lbs or ONE TON load per jack. I would not use the 3 ton rated jacks on a lawn mower, the 6 ton are ok, but a good deal smaller/lighter, and since its MY BUTT under the car I use the 12 ton HF jack stands, and in many cases I leave the two hydrolic jacks supporting the car also, and Ive left the rhino ramps under the front wheels when they won,t cause an access problem, like when changing u-joints, or half shafts, brake jobs, changing a fuel filter ,etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
iF youve ever checked OUT those 12 ton jack stands closely youll soon see that those are a HUGE EXCEPTION to the normal CRAPPY HF stuff, probably because STEEL, and HEAVY CASTINGS are fairly cheap to produce and the TECHNOLOGY is VERY OLD and EASY TO PRODUCE in CHINA at a VERY reasonable cost

which do you think is a better deal, (4) 8 ton jack stands for $800 with only 3 heights

http://www.asedeals.com/jack_stands.html



or (4) 12 ton jack stands for under $140 68LBS FOR TWO (thats a good bit of steel) with about 8 height choices and a far stronger locking mechanisum

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34924
BTW,the 12 ton jacks give the clearance for an extra mechanics pad and a mechanics creeper

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...8274_200198274


they do make a 6 ton version, and its far better than your average auto parts store crappy 3 ton stands
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
We should do a Sticky: Good Chit from Harbor Freight:thumbsup:
Crappy Chit from Harbor Freight::devil:

well the first list will be easy enough,:thumbsup:
but the second.......
I guess we can post a link to thier catalog and state "if its not on the first list I probably belongs on the second list":laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
"how do you get the HF 12 ton jack stands under the vette?, my floor jack won,t lift that high (20")"


GOOD VALID QUESTION!, PROBABLY WE SHOULD discuss it


most comon floor jacks have a max lift height between 18"-22" I have a pair of 3 ton floor jacks,that originally only lift to 20" and thats really too tight to clear,
your surely not alone in having too lift the car in steps to place the taller 12 ton jack stands or similarly tall jack stands that allow full access under the car.
now in my case I found the darn floor jack won,t fit under the corvette as it sits on the shop floor unless you use some careful planing first, I drive the vette up on plastic rhino ramps to get the necessary clearance, I place the first floor jack and lift the front K-member and place the two front 12 ton jack stands on the frame near the a arms on the frame, I then remove the front floor jack and place it and my second floor jack under the rear side frame behind the doors on each side, I jack each side up a bit, then swap to the other side in several stages IF im alone, (naturally if I have help both sides get jacked up at the same time)untill its high enough to place each of the two or four remaining 12 ton jacks into place under the frame.
now a bit of info Ive installed 1 3/4" thick rubber pads that are approximately 4" in dia. on both my floor jacks to both get the necessary lift and protect the frame from scratches these are made from thick sections of earth mover or dump truck tire tread rubber I found at a dump
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I was leafing thru one of my hundred's of catalogs (aaaaa with my elbow resting on a roll of toilet paper) and saw a floor jack extender. It was the same type of thing that's used on a 2 post lift (BendPak) to extend the pads to reach up to a truck frame.
Basically a 4 inch piece of thick walled round tubing with the right ID/OD to go between the jack and pad. I'm gonna build one when I get around to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·


IF you would rather spend time bench pressing your car or truck occasionally and don,t mind loss of a few fingers or a broken leg or back, .....follow this numbskulls example:crazy:

a good yank on a wrench, a friend leaning on the truck, a stiff breeze, ETC. and hes going to be in a world of trouble:crazy:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=98085
"It cost around 250 bucks in materials at home depot and 5 hours to make if you are handy with tools."













Id SUGGEST LOOKING LONG AND HARD AT THE DESIGN AND ENGINEERING BEFORE TRYING TO DUPLICATE THIS , BUT IF ITS BUILT CORRECTLY ITS STRONG ENOUGHT TO BE SAFE AND BEATS THE HELL OUT OF THE GUY USING ROCKS ABOVE
 
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