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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
keep in mind high hp levels build heat in the transmission fast! once the trans fluid temp exceeeds 180 degrees F the trans life expectancy drops, the higher the heat the shorter the expected trans life, trans fluid heat over 220f is sure to hurt the trans after awhile

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/TransTemp.htm

http://www.txchange.com/heatchrt.htm


http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRM-12318&N=700+115&autoview=sku
EXAMPLE on my corvette with its limited room .you can (I DID IN the PAST)replace the spare tire/carrier with this




http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRM-12318&N=700+115&autoview=sku
IM currently using this on my 1985 corvertte but have used others in the past



the upper 4 pass connectors went to the trans, the lower two connections to the oil cooler, BUT Ive since swapped to a 6 pass for the trans only as the oil cooler worked TOO effectively and I never got up to full temp..

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=PRM-185&view=32&N=700+400006+314601

BTW your local hydrolic hose supply house can make good high pressure (MINIMUM 200 PSI hot oil (300 degrees F rated) braided hoses with screw ends if you measure carefully.
route it inside the frame rails and away from the exhaust and drive train, up away from the potential for speed bumps and crap hitting the lines
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
engine oil needs to reach and stay at about 215F-240f
trans fluid I try to keep under 160F,surely below 180F ,Ideally I try to keep coolant in the engine in the 190F-200F range but don,t get overly worried below 230F.I run a 190F t-stat
you can install AUTO temp control switchs and GAUGES (ideal) or manual switchs and GAUGES (FAR FROM IDEAL), your correct that the engine fluids take slightly longer to reach ideal temps, but then they rarely change after getting into the ideal ranges after you set up the system correctly

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/mocal.htm

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM-890015

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=PRF-30103

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=PRF-30110

these allow the fluids to circulate but the fan won,t run untill the temp reachs a set limit



keep in mind the hot engine oil running over the blocks surfaces and trans fluid running thru the lower radiator add a good deal of heat to the coolant in the radiator and removing heat elseware from both reduces the radiators heat load, generally stabilizing the engine temp swings


Could an oil cooler be easily disconnected for the winter months? I'd want one in the summer, but not in the winter when it's -25 out."



they are easily disconnected or a re-route valve too bye-pass can be installed, but like I said, the fan never comes on unless the temp band gets exceeded, keep in mind I don,t have that problem living in FLORIDA where its seldom cooler than 60F and usually in the 75F-95F range


"Also, if I were to buy a bigger-than-stock oil pan, would I be able to run it with a quart or two missing during the winter, to help it warm up faster, or no? "

I run a 10 qt oil pan with 10 qts of oil in it with a windage screen on the engine and a two qt deeper than stock trans pan,but about 2 qts are always in the lines and cooler, so IM running slightly lower effective oil levels in the oil pan,as far as windage and the crank spinning thru oil in the sump. it takes about 3-4 miles normal driving or 7-9 minutes at idle too get up to temp if that helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
theres INSTRUCTIONS with the kit, but basically you install the sensor and wire in any fan you choose to , following those instructions and using the new sensor. you can use the original fan, but in most cases a larger aftermarket fan or an additional transmission cooler is used. the sensor screws into the cylinder head

you can also install just an aftermarket fan


http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=FLX-365&N=700+115&autoview=sku


http://store.summitracing.com/partd...B16S&N=700+320174+4294775279+115&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DER-13720&N=700+115&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DER-15800&N=700+115&autoview=sku



http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRM-12318&N=700+115&autoview=sku
IM currently using this on my 1985 corvertte but have used others in the past

IF YOUR ON A REALLY LIMITED BUDGET, TAURUS FANS FROM A SALVAGE YARD CAN NORMALLY BE FOUND DIRT CHEAP........HERES INFO LARRY POSTED



"The two diagrams above show how to build and wire an auto relay switched 2-speed FORD TAURUS fan.
Parts needed......10 guage wire for the power circuit. 18 guage wire for the control cicuit.
Three relays..... 1) High speed relay, Tyco VF7-12V,70amps
2)Low speed relay and Aux relay, standard BOSCH relays
Two switches,,,,.1)Low speed temp. switch- Adj. Flexilite, FLX-31147 from SUMMIT.
2)High speed temp. switch from Standard Motor Products, TS-158 or TS-392.
I put the adj. low speed switch and the three relays in seperate relay boxes and mounted them in the engine comp. The high speed temp switch I mounted where one of the heater hoses went. Est. cost of parts, less the fan, is $50.00 . 10 guage wire is used in the power circuit and 18 guage in the control circuit. The 12V switched control circuit can be connected to any live connection with ignition on.
The control circuit shown is as follows..... When the temp. reaches your set low speed figure, let's say 190 deg.the low speed relay is energized thru pin 86, 85 connects to 87A of the AUX relay and pulls 30 of that relay, 87 of the low speed relay and 30 are closed sending power to the fan to run at low speed.
When the temp. reaches your high speed switch figure, let's say 210 deg. pin 86 of the AUX. relay energizes thru 85 and 30 releases from 87A of the low speed relay and connects with 85 of the high speed relay which thru 87 of that relay powers the fan to run at high speed.
ARE we confused yet?????
When the temp falls below the high speed swich figure the AUX relay will switch back to the low speed relay.
Therfore low and high speeds will never be on at the same time and you will have the following conditions...
1) No fan on.
2) Low speed on.
3) High speed on."

BTW
the out flow connection for the trans flluid from the trans which should go to the radiator LOWER connection.

Just remove or re-route the upper radiator connection and run it thru your choice of external cooler and back to the trannie return line (upper radiator connection).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
, DON,T OVER COOL YOUR ENGINE!
normal, depends on several factors, its state of tune, how you drive, type of oil, etc. but you want it to reach at least 215f on occasions to burn off moisture and anything under 240f is fine, even expected and normal, for short runs while you drive hard, most stock vettes have the oil temp of around 200F-210F while cruising at low rpms


it takes approximately 214F-215F to burn all the moisture out of oil, that moisture comes from outside air when the engine cools and from combustion when the engines not up too temp. and can form acids and rust if it sits, if your cars driven frequently IE it seldom sits for several days at a time your unlikely to have significant moisture forming, especially if the cars garaged most of the time its not in use.
short trips seldom allow the engine to fully reach a stable temp, the state of tune,the outside temps, the amount and type of oil and the temp switch on the fans , the T-STAT, allow or prevent the oil reaching full temp,the RPMS and LOADS the enge sees effects the temps
If you drive the car frequently and seldom let it sit for days at a time AND change oil fairly regularly (3000-4500 miles between changes) you may be fine with the slightly lower temps ,especially if the cars garaged but you can easily check the condition of your engine, pull a valve cover and inspect its inside surface carefully, it should be clean, possiably stained but not have minor acid etching and there should be no sludge , build up,or chocolate milk or waxey film, if there is your engines not running hot enought or your not changing the oil,filter ETC. frequently

to raise temp install a 190F-200F T-stat, oil temp generally runs 15F-25F higher than COOLANT temps
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
"MY TRANS FLUID TEMP RUNS 223F is this NORMAL"


no! its NOT normal its a bit higher than normal , normal is about 200F OR LOWER, (check you trans fluid level )and find out the reason WHY its running hotter because its sure to hurt the life span of the transmission, ID add an aux trans cooler, if you can,t find out why its running hotter than it should, check the radiator for crap in the airflow path,check the radiator fluid and make sure the fans are opperating, check the sensors, trouble codes, engine timing, etc.


http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Cooling/

http://www.compperformancegroupstor...Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TC&Product_Code=378000

have you installed a higher stall converter or differant rear gear ratio?

adding a aluminum deep sump oil pan helps as it extends down into the airflow under the car, I installed the 2 qt pan, as the 3 qt hurt the under car road clearance too much, but I still needed to install an aux trans cooler once my engine combo started making about twice the stock torque

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81691

"3/8 inlet on an oil cooler is too restrictive racing or not.
redvetracr"

Id totally agree with that statement if all the oil needed too be run thru the cooler,to keep the temps low but I don,t run all the oil flow, in fact the ENGINE OIL cooler rarely gets much oil flow unless Im racing as theres a temp control switch that opens only when necessary,because just the 10 qt baffled oil pan ON MY ENGINE, does a very effective job of keeping the oil temps reasonable most of the time, just some of the oil bye-passes to the cooler at times, most bye-passes the cooler and it all bye-passes the cooler except on the rare occasions when the oil temp exceeds about 230F. in fact my main problem was getting the oil to REACH and stay above 215F in normal driving where it tended to stay at about 200F-210f untill I starting racing the car, or driving with the over drive gear locked out, then it jumps slowly to 245f-250F which thou higher than ID prefer is still ok for short durrations, I installed the oil cooler mostly to keep the oil temp steady not that it was mandatory, it was the trans fluid cooler that was and is mandatory in my particular application

BTW you can do the same thing if you want to, the oil temp sensor port just above the oil filter in the block, can be used with a TEE, as a feed too the oil cooler , or the more traditional sandwitch adapter over the oil filter, or a modified dual remote oil filter adapter can be used,and theres several options for return paths to the block or oil pan
Ive had about 6 differant configs on my engine and trans cooler set-ups over the last two years alone, trying to get everything to function IDEALLY:thumbsup:
remember my hobby is PLAYING WITH, and EXPERIMENTING ON these three corvettes, I own (especially the 1985)and changing combos, cams, heads, exhaust systems , etc, is part of the deal




http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=FLX-45951&N=700+115&autoview=sku

BTW THERES A BIG DIFFERANCE BETWEEN AN OIL COOLER AND A TRANS COOLER, if your looking to run all your ENGINE oil thru a cooler... thats fine, but Id bet youll find like I did that thats not necessary with a decent baffled high capacity oil pan, and that running SOME of the oil flow is all thats necessary

BUT YOU WILL WANT ALL THE TRANS FLUID TOO RUN THRU A COOLER
 
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