[t_newnes]

Well, I am still not sure exactly what happened (no space to tear it down yet), but I somehow managed to seize the engine on my Z06. Long story short, I was driving home from the mountains a few days after Christmas when I got the P0300 engine code and it felt like one or more injectors or coils went out. I was at the top of a mountain pass when it happened, so I turned the engine off and coasted down to the bottom of the hill. Then I had it towed to an auto shop that my Grandpa owns, and they started it up to diagnose the problem, quiet at first (but still misfiring), then it got loud and within several seconds seized up on them. :WTF

No big deal, what happened, happened. I don't think there was anything they or I either one could have done to prevent it, so I am not mad or anything. I have worked on engines before, but they have all been old Ford Flatheads (the first engine I ever built was a V12...how many people can say that?) and I don't think I would have any issues working on the LS6, but I did have a few questions for someone experienced with the internals and engine removal.

Has anyone removed the engine out the top before? I know it is doable, but I didn't know how difficult it is.

Also, I was thinking of taking the opportunity to modify the LS6, and thought I might buy a cheap LM7 or similar iron block truck engine to stick in so I can drive it in the meantime. Does anyone have experience with LS1/LS6 parts on the LM7 block and heads? I am aware that there is 1 bolt hole that doesn't exist on the iron block for LS1 accessories, but that shouldn't be an issue. Does anyone know if the LS6 intake will bolt up to the LM7 heads? I didn't want to have to buy very much to do the conversion, since it is basically just a place holder until I can finish my LS6 build.

Thanks for any help I get. :thumbsup:

~Tommy

 

[82CEtuner]

your better off with a lq4 or lq9 6.0 truck block.

the blocks are the exact same casting as a ls1 or six and EVERYTHING will bolt to them just like it was your factory ls6, some tuning may be required unless you swap ecm also

 

[RTGordon]

Just out of curiousity, did you notice anything wierd with the oil pressure first?

 

[BonneRisque]

Just rebuild it if that is in fact what it needs,

Either that or buy a short block,

You can find them online cheap

Texas speed has them

 

[fkumro]

:agree:

A forged shortblock...mMmMmm

one day

 

[Z06 Young]

destroyed engine

. . . broken valve spring or two???? :huh:

 

[t_newnes]

Just out of curiousity, did you notice anything wierd with the oil pressure first?

Nope. Oil pressure was fine during the whole thing. I also checked the oil level when it first started misfiring and it was ok as well. I wasn't able to check the oil level once the tow truck got to my Grandpa's shop because it was too dark, but there was no leaking where it was parked waiting for the tow truck and no fluids on the tow truck bed either.

your better off with a lq4 or lq9 6.0 truck block.

the blocks are the exact same casting as a ls1 or six and EVERYTHING will bolt to them just like it was your factory ls6, some tuning may be required unless you swap ecm also

Wouldn't the 6.0 iron blocks be the same on the outside as the 5.3 block? The main reason I picked the 5.3 was just because they are way more common than the 6.0 or an LS1 and being a dime a dozen they should be cheaper. It would just be a fill in engine so I could still drive the Z and still take my time building up the LS6. I guess all the drooling I do at SEMA finally caught up to me, now that I have an excuse to do a build.

 

[RTGordon]

If you do end up getting a truck block for temporary use, be sure to check the head casting numbers. There was a supplier that had some porosity issues. Do a quick search for it and you will be able to track down the numbers.

 

[t_newnes]

If you do end up getting a truck block for temporary use, be sure to check the head casting numbers. There was a supplier that had some porosity issues. Do a quick search for it and you will be able to track down the numbers.

Yeah, I know what you are talking about. The heads were manufactured by Castech. I figured I would include the issue in case someone searched for it at a later date. This is from a GM corporate bulletin:

"4.8L or 5.3L VORTEC(R) GEN III, GEN IV V8 Engine (VINs V, T, M, B, Z – RPOs LR4, LM7, LH6, L33, L59) Some vehicles may experience a gradual coolant loss over time. A very low percentage of cylinder head(s) manufactured with an embossed Castech logo may develop a porosity crack in a very specific area. Inspect the cylinder head assembly to determine if the casting was manufactured by Castech. This can be accomplished by inspecting for their casting logo located on top of the intake port, under the rocker arm support rail and in the spring deck cavity portion of the cylinder head."

 

[HardcoreABN]

hehehe I will be having either a LS1 short or long block available in the next month or so (soon as the new 1 gets here and I can get it in)....has about 100k miles on it, burns a little oil (don't they all?) and has minor piston face damage from a broken valve spring.....make you a good deal on it

 

[Sebica]

6.0 0r 6.2

Hey guys, I removed my engine from the top, was a tricky procedure due to the fact that sub frame is so close to the oil pan. But I had done it. After the engine was removed I checked the areas of where the engine interfered with the sub frame, and I filled out about 3/16 of those areas on both sides. No worries, area that I filled, are not part of structural of the subframe, most of it was left overs from the casting.
Just to make it clear, LQ4 is the 6.0 l block,found ussually on heavy duty/fleet chevy trucks 2001-20011, LQ6 is the 6.2 l block found ussually on 2004- 2011 Escalades .
I went to a 6.0, because is the strongest block of all, and is identical wirth the 5.7 l found on C5's, on the outside.
Now depending on how much you are willing to spend, Sky is the limit. The heads on Lq4 are verry good, all what I would do is install performance conecting rods, every corvette guy that is putting boost on his stock engine will agree with me.
Pistons, cranck, bearings would hold 600 HP with no problem.
But if you want to upgrade, stroker kit baby.
I hope I was a good help, and good luck with your project.:cheers:

 

[dkshrk]

There is also an LQ9 it is the 6.0 that is in my 05' SS Silverado and Escalades of the same period.

Good luck with your build sorry to here about the Z.:thud: