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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm diving into my diff again before i put my car on the road because i'm uncertain about certain things..

I've got several questions popping and hope gary is still around, if not maybe someone else can help me :
- how can you tell if your carrier is worn ?
- how can you tell if the side gears, small gears and cross shaft are worn ? What should the diameter be on the cross shaft and hole ?
- when using ARP bolts for the RG, do you use a washer under them ?

Thanks

PS : when i proceed more questions are probably going to pop up.
:thud:
 

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The carrier is the housing. They rarely have a problem. Look for any sign a RG bolt backed out and scored the LH side. Look at the yoke bearing bores, the bearing must press fit in. Check the tapped holes inside and out for cracks or stripped threads.
I tap them for oil drains.

The case is what holds the ring gear and spiders and what I believe you were referring to. Check the case very close at the windows for crack. Look at the bore for a step and egg shape. If you find any cracks it's junk. If the hole is opened up I machine them and use 12 bolt shaft and spiders. It ends up stronger then a 10 bolt stock setup. The spiders should be 10-17 and look at the teeth. If bad they'll have wear steps in them. Look at the splines on the back of the 17's for steps worn into them as well. I always replace the cross shafts in my rebuilds.

If you need the parts I use just let me know, I can supply you with everything I use no problem.

ARP RG bolts DO NOT use washers. You have to counter sink the case holes so they sit flat. Some gear sets require machine fitting the bolts because they sometimes bottom out and roll the threads. USE #271 loctite on them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok, here goes, i'm working on tuning my posi.

What I did was modify an old side yoke with nut on it, so i could measure torque on it, to get the carrier turning.

I greased up the clutches with the posi additive and had to go to a 1,13 mm (0,045") shim before there was any noticable resistance. At that point it needed something like 25 lbs/ft of torque to get it turning. (I turned the carrier around something like 5 times.
Because the workshop manual for my car says it should have 70 lbs/ft of torque to turn (at the wheels). I was thinking i was not having enough pressure on the clutches.
I put in a 1,02 mm and a 0,25 mm (total 0,05 inch) and torque was way to much (over 120 lbs/ft). Guess I need to get something like a 1,20 in there (0,047) but the kit doesn't have one.

What i dont like is the fact that it doesn't turn smoothly. It seems as if the spider gears are locking up, releasing, locking up,...

BTW : the cross shaft measures the same all over the length, so I assume it's OK. The hole is round not ovalized. Can't spot any cracks as far as i can see.

Thanks for the tip on the bottoming out of the ARP bolts.
 
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