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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys..I am having a little trouble figuring out which gasket I need from Nappa and also Summit. They all say 12 bolt but there is only 8 bolts and also the shape of the gaskets looks a little different. Here are the links & pics...

http://www.napaonline.com/masterpag...ption=Differential+Housing+Gasket+-+Rear+Axle



and now the other version...

http://www.napaonline.com/masterpag...Carrier+Gasket+-+Rear+Axle+-+High+Performance




Okay...and lastly but most important for me can somebody show me a picture of the inside of the differential and what the c-clip looks like? I have looked at the great pics by GTR1999 from above but did not see where he pointed to a c-clip. I know its right next to the side yokes but want to make sure I am yanking out the right part this weekend when I remove my c-clips.

Thanks...Rob
 

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the upper most is for an 80-82 Dana 44 (it will fit, the "ears" will be useless and will stick out though) Don't have a pic of the c clips.

It's not just a wrong pic, I checked for 82s and they list both that gasket and a 13 hole one for the Dana 44ICA (indep. corvette axle, the C4 ones are called super dana ff or HD dana 44) however the C3 dana 44 uses 12 bolts (8 + 4 for the camber bracket) The C4 HD/super Dana 44 uses 9 bolts and the C4 Dana 36 uses 10 so someone @ napa can't count.

The other one is for an 8 bolt live axle.

This is what you need (from van steel's page)



compared to the dana gasket
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks TT!!! I got that gasket already ordered and so now I need to figure out what exactly a c-clip looks like. I am totally new to this stuff so bear with me but I assume it is in the shape of the letter "C" and wraps around the side yoke but where is it at in this pic?

 

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see the smooth center pin on the left and the splined part of the stub axle butting against it? That's where the C clip is located.

Garys photo bucket is a nice source for pics ;) , here's a pic of the c clip



See the 2 snap rings on the splined stub axles (on both sides, next to the center pin)
 

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I guess C-Clip is the generic term, those are actually snap rings I circled in Red
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the pics....okay so now this looks a little more involved then previously thought but I am still going to give it a shot. In the pic below here is a sping/clutch pack? on top of where the c-clips are. Is there any trick to removing that double spring thingy and then what is the best way to get in there and pop off those c-clips? Do I need a pair of special very long needle nose plyiers (sp?) or any other special tools besides lots of beer?

 

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the preload springs simply grab onto the retainer plates (stamped ridges), just compress it with a screwdriver and work it out. The backing/retainer plate comes out once you pull the stub axles (after removing the c clips)

I don't have any close up pics, you can see them in the back of this pic. Easy to see the raised (circular) parts that hold the springs. They are lying next to the retainer caps for the sway bar bushings (on the paint stain).

 

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You need good 90 degree snap ring pliers. The cheap ones just bend. If you remove the cross shaft you will have more working room.
Mike
 

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The 90* pliers are the only way to go. I have a pair from 30 years ago that work great but I haven't seen them for sale since. Sears has a good set that will work as well.
If you can see the chamfer on the end of the yoke that's a good sign, it it's flat then look to see if the end is mushroomed. If so you'll have to try drving it out. If it doesn't go then you have to grind the end until it will. The problem with that is getting chips in the bearings.

The NAPA gaskets are thinner then the GM ones, they'll work but use some Ultrablack on both sides.
 

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Thanks for the pics....okay so now this looks a little more involved then previously thought but I am still going to give it a shot. In the pic below here is a sping/clutch pack? on top of where the c-clips are. Is there any trick to removing that double spring thingy and then what is the best way to get in there and pop off those c-clips? Do I need a pair of special very long needle nose plyiers (sp?) or any other special tools besides lots of beer?



do yourself a BIG favor and ONLY try to R&R the sideyokes (90* snap ring pliers as stated above).....leave the springs where they are, with your knowledge anything more is going to be a headache. ...redvetracr

PS: you would be amazed at what you can still buy from GM...mine comes from the local GMC truck dealership
 

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Ok I'm a dummy, how did you guys get my pictures, is nothing scared anymore:rolling:
 

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Gary, all ya got to is right click on the pic and select Save.

And NO, Nothing is sacred!:laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ugghhh!! This is getting more complicated than I thought. I really do appreciate all your help, etc. but I don't want to bite off more than I can handle. If I see it done once I know I could do it again in a snap...but going kind of blindly is a big step for me especially since I am doing this in my parking garage of my condo that I live in...they just love seeing the car up on jack stands every other weekend LOL!!! If I had a garage it would be a hole different story and you can bet I would be doing this, but I can't risk leaving the car on jack stands overnight just incase I need extra local help.

Your pics are great GTR1999....basically it is really simple to hijack your pics. I went to your sticky threads above regarding diff rebuilds and then right clicked on the pics and selected properties. This pulls up a rectangular grey window where an "HTTP" web addy is listed. Then I copy this addy and use it in my posts with the
 

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See I told you guys I was a dummy!!!
What you don't want to do is remove the posi case. Doing so will cause the iron shims to come out and trying to hammer them back usually breaks them.The assembly practices on the line varied so some originals may slide out others require some effort or a case spreader.
Get the Sears pliers, leave the cross shaft in and remove the snap ring. Have one of those long magnets in case you drop the ring. replace the yokes and seals and if you feel like it tap a drain hole but remember tapping with a NPT tap requires checking so you don't go too far. If you want to "beef" it up a little bit, replace- one at a time, the cap bolts with socket heads - 60 ft/lbs.
Check the torque on the RG bolts too, some do back out over time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the info GTR1999....I got one more quick question. Do you know what size the bolts are that mount the differential to the cross member? I know the head size is 5/8ths but I need the thread dimensions, etc. I cut a access hole from the inside storage area to be able to drop down the diff without removing the cross member as you can ask sixfooter...the way my exhaust is one solid piece it is darn near impossible to get the diff out of the rear without undo the tranny crossmember, etc. so this will be a much easier way to go. What I want to do is too take out two of the bolts and insert the 2 longer bolts...this way I can drop down the diff without fully removing it if needed and also it will make it much easier to align back up when I go to reinstall by threading the longer bolts first while it is on the ground or on the scissor jack and pulling it up into the cross member this way...then re-insert the regular 2 bolts into the other holes and swap out the remaining longer 2 bolts. This is 69myway's (Chris's) idea how to make it easier on myself which sounds like a good method but I need to know the bolt size/thread in advance because I can't leave the car alone on jack stands while I run to HomeDepot.

Thanks....Rob
 

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yea, the old access panel trick...expect to get flamed by the "purists". I am pretty sure those are 7/16 bolts on top, with a good pair of snap ring pliers you can`t get yourself into any trouble.....you might need a screwdriver to rotate the snap rings so you can grab them but it`s (honestly) a simple job.....just be sure you get them in all the way when you replace them.
redvetracr
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Awesome...thanks a bunch guys for all the great help. I am stopping by HomeDepot tonight to pick them up in a much longer version so I can drop down the diff easily to a good level with it still holding onto the frame using the longer bolts and then proceed to do what I need to do with the diff. Should be real simple to pull the diff back up into the cross member.
 

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Awesome...thanks a bunch guys for all the great help. I am stopping by HomeDepot tonight to pick them up in a much longer version so I can drop down the diff easily to a good level with it still holding onto the frame using the longer bolts and then proceed to do what I need to do with the diff. Should be real simple to pull the diff back up into the cross member.

"drop it down"?? you have to take it out....it`s the cover that bolts to the crossmember on the top and the rear spring on the bottom, you can`t get to the side yokes until you disconnect the halfshafts and remove the rear cover.
redvetracr
 

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