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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
... I read every post and may have missed what I need.
Yes you did. You need to go back and read the orifice/accumulator writeup again. I painstakingly copied the instructions from the service manual word for word so that questions like this would not arise unless someone didn't thoroughly read the instructions. YOU are the only one who benefits from fully understanding what needs to be done BEFORE you start. That way, you don't complete a flawed repair. I take the same exact stance on my videos. The man hours that I put into these writeups is unreal so I want people to read them twice.
 

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Yes, I did as you said, but nowhere do the instructions say which port on the accumulator to put the oil in nor was there anything about where to place the remaining quantity of the 9oz required.

I'm kinda confused because there is also contradictory information on lubricating the "O" rings both PAG and 525 oil are mentioned.

The instructions are great but there are a couple bumps, like 1oz of oil in the plumbing, is that 1oz per line or 1oz total?

Everything I flushed came out clean, and as I said my orfice tube was almost clean as well (discolored but te screens were pretty clean), new compressor with 3oz of oil, new accumulator and no oil came out of the old accumulator. I need to get my total up to 9oz.
 

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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
Yes, I did as you said, but nowhere do the instructions say which port on the accumulator to put the oil in nor was there anything about where to place the remaining quantity of the 9oz required.
FIRST:

... Step 19. If replacing the accumulator, drain and measure as much of the oil as possible from the removed accumulator. This measurement will be used during installation of the replacement accumulator.


Step 20. Add 60 ml (2 oz) more than amount drained from old accumulator.
That didn't take me one minute to find while looking at that writeup.

Second, the AC system is a completely ENCLOSED system. The R134a and PAG oil cycles throughout the ENTIRE system. PAG oil also comes in a pressured can where it can be added to the system in the same way that you would add R-134a. The same exact opening is used to add BOTH.

Another thing, I asked you WHERE you are getting your oil values from. You have yet to answer that question. In my writeup, I preface the values for everything I posted with the following:

... Here are some important numbers that you need to know about oil and R-134a amounts. These numbers are for my year (2001), so you need to double-check and verify exactly what is recommended for your year car. It varies sometimes from year to year.
I reiterate that with the following:

IMPORTANT!

The amount of oil and R-134a is critical to the operation of you AC system. The amounts that you will use of each chemical may vary from what my year requires (2001). Thus, you need to make sure that the amounts needed for your car are exactly to spec. R-134a is NOT like the old Freon system where you could just add some until your air ran cold. R-134a amounts must be exact as too much or too little can cause damage as well as cause your AC to not operate correctly. This is why it is so important to have your system filled by a professional who can measure exactly how much substance is in your system.

Heed that warning!!!
So when reading your responses, it sounds like you didn't get an complete understanding of what was to be done BEFORE you started, which is what I said to do in the beginning of my writeup. Trying to get that understanding DURING the job is not the way to go.

A really good mechanic once told me that the service manual was NOT written for the average shade tree mechanic like me because I was questioning why certain things were not more spelled out during the repair. He told me that the service manual is written with the assumption that you have a basic understanding of certain system operations. Makes sense because sometimes, I will read an instruction 20 times BEFORE I actually understand what I've just read. However, the service manual DOES include a detailed description of how everything works, so that you can better trouble-shoot an issue. If you don't know how a system works, then you can't trouble-shoot it without just guessing and throwing parts at it.

What you should be asking for is a detailed description of how the AC system works so that what you are doing makes more sense. It's almost like you're trying to do this by looking at the pictures and not fully understanding exactly what happens when the system is charged and turned on. I was taught a very important lesson about understanding a job before I tackled it and I paid for not doing so. Haven't made that mistake again since, and I was taught that in grade school.

I'm kinda confused because there is also contradictory information on lubricating the "O" rings both PAG and 525 oil are mentioned.
"Use only Polyalkylene Glycol Synthetic Refrigerant Oil (PAG) for internal circulation through the R-134a A/C system and only 525 viscosity mineral oil on fitting threads and O-rings. If lubricants other than those specified are used, compressor failure and/or fitting seizure may result."

It gets no more simpler than ONE goes INSIDE the system and the other is used on the fitting threads and O-rings. There is no way to say that and make it any simpler. That's why you read and understand the complete set of instructions first BEFORE starting the job.

The instructions are great but there are a couple bumps, like 1oz of oil in the plumbing, is that 1oz per line or 1oz total?
If they meant "per line", wouldn't it say "per line?"

Everything I flushed came out clean, and as I said my orfice tube was almost clean as well (discolored but te screens were pretty clean), new compressor with 3oz of oil, new accumulator and no oil came out of the old accumulator.
Why did you flush your system if the orifice was that clean? The ONLY reason you flush the system is if you've had a catastrophic failure and crap was shot throughout the system. The orifice is a dead giveaway for whether or not your system needs to be flushed or just repaired. You made more work by doing the unnecessary.

I need to get my total up to 9oz.
And AGAIN I ask, HOW do you know that YOUR system requires 9 ounces of PAG oil? :huh:
 

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Sorry if I've made this difficult, but being an aircraft (mainly helicopter) mechanic and quality control tech makes me question to be absolutely sure. When you have to test fly on what you work on you always question because the 1st bounce really sucks:laughing:

1. Anyway, no oil came out of the old accumulator and your write up doesn't say which orfice but I see now it doesn't matter...Closed loop

2. The oil capacity came from the compressor manufacturer and multiple locations I resarched. Here is one chart

CORVETTE
2002-2004 All Engines R134a PAG 150 9.00
2000-2001 All Engines R134a PAG 150 9.00
1997-1999 All Engines R134a PAG 150 9.00
1994-1996 All Engines R134a PAG 150 8.00
1990-1993 All Engines R12 Mineral 8.00
1989 All Engines R12 Mineral 8.00
1985 All Engines R12 Mineral 7.00


3. I said I had a brain stall and you helped restart it a bit.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
Trust me, it took me about 5 months of research BEFORE I removed one bolt. It was the end of summer so I had all fall and winter to do the repair so if there is anyone who will question stuff, you can bet that I will. But the main thing that I do is research the hell out of a complicated repair BEFORE I do anything. It took me 8 months to do my head gaskets. I probably over-research stuff but there's nothing like a clear understanding of how something works when you are trying to fix it.

This is the first car that I have ever worked on and now I realize just how bad some of the GM technicians that I have seen at dealerships suck. I've had to explain to them how parts of this car work in order to help them figure it out. Finally, I quit taking my car in to get worked on and started fixing it myself. That was 2008. I haven't looked back since. Trouble-shooting is what I do for a living and not everyone has a mind that thinks logically when it comes to figuring out problems.
 

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OK here's where I'm at, I added 2 oz PAG150 to the accumulator and 4 additional oz of PAG150 to the compressor bring my total to 9oz in the system. (In case I'm right)

I'm not going to run the system until after I take it to my service guy who'll probably replace it all anyway when he does his thing.

Basically I'm just hanging the components and leaving all the actual serviceing to Rex.
 

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Discussion Starter · #107 ·
If you are going to let someone else charge it, you should have let them handle the oil too. Also, UNPLUG the compressor BEFORE you drive the car and make sure you plug it back in once you get to his shop. That way, you won't do any damage if you happen to accidentally turn it on.
 

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Yeah I was going to tell them about the oil and no way am I going to plug it in. At least I'm able to get after the front of the engine and radiator area for a good cleaning.
 

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I'm going to be tackling this job in the next month or so. I like this writeup you made. Mines a '98 so I will get my books out to see what is what for the measurements. My compressor hasn't failed but is leaking from the seams for the last couple years. I'm getting tired of filling it to "get by". I read through this and looks like from what has been explained I shouldn't need to replace or flush the lines but I will check the orifice tube to see how dirty it is when I get it out. I'm ordering parts as I get some extra cash and all I need to get now is the condenser for the front. Just wanted to say thanks for the write up.:partyon::cheers:
 

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My question is in regards to pag oil. My car is a 2000 Coupe with climate control. I'm in the process of replacing the compressor, condenser and dryer. I found lots of particle in the orofice tube therefore figured it best if I flushed the lines and the evaporated and it appears a good idea as a lot more came out of the evaporated. That being said there is no page oil in the system others than what came in the Delphi compressor. I figured better safe than sorry so I drained the pag oil from the new compressor and got 7oz out of the compressor and it was blue. So the 7oz went back in and the compressor and water pump are back in the car. I'm waiting on the dryer and condenser to arrive. Now the question. From what I've learned here the system takes 9oz, so I just need to add 2oz? Correct? Second question, when I went to the parts store to buy pag, there was blue and green, so I had the counter guy check to see what mine takes and he says green, so thats what I bought. From what I understand the blue is a medium viscosity and the green is light. So, can they be mixed? Is the blue ok for my car?
20210523_155305.jpg
 

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I don't get your question. Are you trying to ask if it is ok to run your ac system on something other than what it calls for? I mean you are telling us you verified and already know the right correct oil to put in your system. Are you looking for someone to say it is ok to mix the oils? But even so you already know the right fluid and it is apart and just flushed. I am lost. What are you trying to ask?
 

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Got my answer directly from Delphi. They pre fill with pag 150 and recommend sticking with that. So that's the route I'm going.
 
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