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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone know of a way to do something about dim headlamps on the c3? I was wondering if they make a conversion to the LED lamps like on new cars.
I need something feel like I am driving with candles on the hood.

Thanks
 

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you mean HID? there are several options, i myself got deeper buckets and you can put the standard headlight bulbs in there. i knew a guy here in portland that got same depth (like the older chevy trucks) buckets (the lens part of the headlights) and put neverwinter bulbs in there and it sure was bring :thumbsup:
 

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Right now I have a set of lamps for sale that will accomidate H.I.Ds they are just the housings but you need them to convert.

you can either leave the halogen bulbs in them thats there now for a descent upgrade or get any HID kit and get the bulbs that will fit the housings.

 

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Discussion Starter #4
Where did you get deeper buckets? Is that a stock type item from say corvette central?
the idea sounds what I need.
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i meant housings xD like what James is talking about :thumbsup: i believe he's parting with those housings btw :cheers:
 

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I drive old cars almost everyday, do a ton of night driving, and CURSE modern headlights. Worst thing they ever did was eliminate sealed beams.

What's happening with your car is the headlight's aren't getting 13V, probably due to an aged headlight switch. But even with a new switch and stock wiring you'd be lucky to only have 1 volt of loss. Headlights drop their output by a huge amount when volts are reduced, 1 volt is significant.

To correct this, install a headlight relay. Real simple, real cheap, and will also improve the interiors electrical performance by taking the headlight's load off it's undersize power wire. Every old car ought to have this done.

The other thing is the output of a bulb will decrease with time and use. So replace them even if they work, and get a bulb that features modern technology. My preferences are silverstars or cool blues (which aren't blue, actually very white).

You can put fancy-schmancy headlights in your car all day long, but if the wire's only delivering 10.5V, they're gonna suck too.

Plus, with a sealed beam, every time you replace the bulb, you replace the lens & reflector. No more chips & scratches, no more hazing on the reflector.

Hope that makes sense. Good luck with your ride!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thats excellent advice and seems the easiest way to achieve the brighter results I am looking for.
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yes the housings are basicly a replacment for the sealed beams allowing you to run newer style lights like 9004 or 9007. they are the same overall diamiter but deeper and will require some cutting of the original mount holes but use the same mounting brackets.

the biggest advantage of running H.I.D. i the power comes straight from the battery, if you were to wire your old lights up in the same way you would notice a difference as well. the main advantage over not having the sealed beam is you can go to H.i.D if you want to

i cant remember the brand of light housing but there pretty basic you could probably do a search for the diamiter size and find them.

and yes I am parting with mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
yes the housings are basicly a replacment for the sealed beams allowing you to run newer style lights like 9004 or 9007. they are the same overall diamiter but deeper and will require some cutting of the original mount holes but use the same mounting brackets.

the biggest advantage of running H.I.D. i the power comes straight from the battery, if you were to wire your old lights up in the same way you would notice a difference as well. the main advantage over not having the sealed beam is you can go to H.i.D if you want to

i cant remember the brand of light housing but there pretty basic you could probably do a search for the diamiter size and find them.

and yes I am parting with mine.
How much? Then replace the housing as you describe, add HID lamps? and wire, correct?
 

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Hey,
I bought the nevernight kit from speeddirect and the result is very good + they also take the load from the original harness as they are powered by the alt, with a new harness. Plug and play, buckets need to be cut a bit.
If you have the patience, have a look at the vid
Regard,
Nick
 

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To correct this, install a headlight relay. Real simple, real cheap, and will also improve the interiors electrical performance by taking the headlight's load off it's undersize power wire. Every old car ought to have this done.
I agree with Slow & Leaky - did this to my 79 and what a difference. :thumbsup:
 

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I have LED for position lights (that's the term used in europe) and Xenon HID for headlights.

Check my topic for more info on the conversion. You need to buy H4 or H7 bulbs, mine had to be E compliant (check USA regulations). Then you just install Xenon kit as in any modern car.
 

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I drive old cars almost everyday, do a ton of night driving, and CURSE modern headlights. Worst thing they ever did was eliminate sealed beams.

What's happening with your car is the headlight's aren't getting 13V, probably due to an aged headlight switch. But even with a new switch and stock wiring you'd be lucky to only have 1 volt of loss. Headlights drop their output by a huge amount when volts are reduced, 1 volt is significant.

To correct this, install a headlight relay. Real simple, real cheap, and will also improve the interiors electrical performance by taking the headlight's load off it's undersize power wire. Every old car ought to have this done.

The other thing is the output of a bulb will decrease with time and use. So replace them even if they work, and get a bulb that features modern technology. My preferences are silverstars or cool blues (which aren't blue, actually very white).

You can put fancy-schmancy headlights in your car all day long, but if the wire's only delivering 10.5V, they're gonna suck too.

Plus, with a sealed beam, every time you replace the bulb, you replace the lens & reflector. No more chips & scratches, no more hazing on the reflector.

Hope that makes sense. Good luck with your ride!
:agree: Right On, Good Post S&L!
Whatever path of electrical mods you take, don't forget to upgrade the electrical return path as well. This tends to get neglected. And 40 yr old welds and funky bolt connections no longer cut it.
After a night cruise, alot of cussing ensued as my headlamps were barely able to illuminate the road at speed. Out came the VOM, and after some probing time, sure enough, just over 10 volts at the lamps. This has led me into another project alley of electrical mods on entire car. With the headlamps, (after upgrading wiring) I settled for halogen low beams, and found some torches (aka: aircraft landing lamps for the brights) and it's 'flame on' now.
Good luck :cheers:
 

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:agree: Right On, Good Post S&L!
Whatever path of electrical mods you take, don't forget to upgrade the electrical return path as well. This tends to get neglected. And 40 yr old welds and funky bolt connections no longer cut it.
After a night cruise, alot of cussing ensued as my headlamps were barely able to illuminate the road at speed. Out came the VOM, and after some probing time, sure enough, just over 10 volts at the lamps. This has led me into another project alley of electrical mods on entire car. With the headlamps, (after upgrading wiring) I settled for halogen low beams, and found some torches (aka: aircraft landing lamps for the brights) and it's 'flame on' now.
Good luck :cheers:
Rod75
How about some more detail on the aircraft landing lights.:D what is the part number, wattage and are they a direct replacement for our high beam lamps. Any mods needed like higher amp alt. ect. Thanks in advance.

Mark:cheers:
 

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I purchased the lamps yrs ago at a swap meet. I don't have any particular specs on them, except I remember they exceed 55W. This is basically for "off-road" use. I live in the boon-docks, so for me, having some intense lighting is a must to spot critters on the roads.
In description, they're basically a sealed beam with a clear (non-fluted) lens.
Here's a link to similar: http://compare.ebay.com/like/280550...fe69628&itemid=280550643473&ff4=263602_304662

Here's another option that I've run in other cars:
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html
Enjoyed my Cibie lights!

Even more options avail: http://www.google.com/search?q=seal...&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&pbx=1&fp=33bd43fef7e8d942

I've upgraded my headlamp wiring, and feed them with relays as described above. I recommend same to all.
My alt is stock 63A at this time (which is adequate for my app) to also be upgraded soon.
:cheers:
 

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Rod75
How about some more detail on the aircraft landing lights.:D what is the part number, wattage and are they a direct replacement for our high beam lamps. Any mods needed like higher amp alt. ect. Thanks in advance.

Mark:cheers:

That would be crazy! (the good kind of crazy) Are they wide angle or pencil beam??

Also you can get HIGH watt sealed beams thru off road specialty houses, they used to offer them in pencil beam or wide angle. KC maybe??

For what it's worth I am very light-picky and have been doing the relay conversion for 10+ years on all sorts of cars & trucks. The only things I've ever had to install auxiliary lighting on were late models with composite headlights. 13V to four premium sealed beams from a parts store will burn a hole in the night. But they're not as cool as landing lights!

If you want to change your alternator the higher amperage OE versions are highly over rated. Pun intended. Late model CS alternators bolt into our stock brackets, use the stock pulley, and generally look stock. They'll end idle voltage flicker and hold the car at 13 V in all conditions.

Old cars end up having spots of high resistance here and there in the loom, it's unavoidable. As voltage drops the amps required for everything increase. High amps kill components. Holding the car at max voltage all the time means less amps flowing, which makes everything not just work better, but last longer.

good luck!
 

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If you want to change your alternator the higher amperage OE versions are highly over rated. Pun intended. Late model CS alternators bolt into our stock brackets, use the stock pulley, and generally look stock. They'll end idle voltage flicker and hold the car at 13 V in all conditions.
Slow & Leaky
Just confirming what you are posting. The cs ALT. will it work with c3 engine setups? Most cs have a serpentine pulley will my v belt pulley work on the cs ALT. thanks
Mark:cheers:
 

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Both styles of alternator have the same shaft coming out the front, and same mounting depth relative to the ears. Just swap your older V belt pulley & fan onto the newer alternator. More than one place makes an adapter pigtail. Hardest part of the whole swap is replacing/upgrading the charge wire between the alt & the starter lug.

http://www.novaresource.org/alternator.htm
 

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Thanks S&L this will help me with my audio system:thumbsup:

:cheers:Mark
 
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