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Discussion Starter #1
use the correct tool, beating the damper onto the crank frequently damages both the damper and the thrust bearing in the engine

http://www.tavia.com/cat12.html#1




"You put the damper on the crankshaft after oiling the crank snout and inner damper as far as you can get it with a few soft taps of large plastic mallet.

You thread grumpy's tool into the crankshaft as far as possible.OIL THE THREADS...with the roller bearing against the damper, the washer next, between the nut and roller bearing, then the nut,outer most, you turn the nut forcing the damper on, but be aware the damper generally slides on and the ttool makes it fairly easy, so carefully watch as over tightening the tool once the damper bottoms against the cranks shoulder will brake the tool..........the picture depicts the tool set up for a sbc, youll need to use the larger end and reverse it for the bbc

You then turn the real big nut, and the balancer walks on to the crankshaft

they also make combo puller/installers Proform 66514 - Proform


http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_43866_-1

theres a TOOL designed expressely for removing the damper and its NOT a conventional swing jaw type gear puller LIKE THESE



they tend to bind and distort the damper, frequently damaging it

youll need something like this (you can get a cheap version at most auto parts stores for under $40 but the one from summit better quality




http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=PRO-66514&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ATI-918999&autoview=sku



BTW


the crank gears requires a 3 or 4 jaw gear puller ,because the two jaw style tends to try and fold/bind the gear into the crank snout, a lighted propane torch applied briefly to heat the crank gear tends to expand & loosen its hold on the crank
 

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Discussion Starter #2
BTW the stock damper has an inner hub and outer ring with an elastomer band glued between and effectively cancels most of the engine harmonics only at one rpm range, which is far lower than youll be durring high performance driving simply because stress is cumulative and the factory knows youll spend far more time below 4500rpm than above that in the engines life.
theres several far more effective damper designs that work over a greater rpm spread:thumbsup:


stock oem style with elastomer ring



internal roller design (RATTLER)


SILICONE FLUID, SUSPENDED, INTERNAL RING DESIGN (FLUIDDAMPER)
 

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a lighted propane torch applied briefly to heat the crank gear tends to expand & loosen its hold on the crank.

Do you think the added information about 'lighted' is necessary? :laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
"Do you think the added information about 'lighted' is necessary? "

its been my experiance that theres always about 1/2% of the guys who read instructions that are clueless, the other 99.5% will think..DAAAAHHH! but hey thats 100%:thumbsup:
 
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