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Discussion Starter #1
Long ago when I started this venture, transmission was a question, and some folks here talked me into a 200R4 trans.
In the journey, if I recall, I was told to source a drive shaft from a vette with a TH350, as it would be the right length vs the one I had for my Th400. At the time, I did find myself one of those driveshafts.
So today, I'm finally getting to the point of reinstalling my drive shaft. I got the rebuilt trans all in place, the crossmember and all of that all buttoned up. BUT...
...can't get the drive shaft in at all. No room to get it into place. The original drive shaft had strap style u-joints on both front and back. This one has press in on the yolk end, so the yolk is attached. So it's about 3" too long to be able to stick it.
What is the trick. Please tell me that I don't have to go through removing torque converter bolts, and dropping the trans, or dropping the rear diff, just to stab a drive shaft....

The silver lining here is that it does appear that once IN, the drive shaft IS the right length, and won't need to be shortened/lengthened....

Thx.
 

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DC PIT CREW BOSS
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If you have a good driveshaft company in your area, they should be able to modify it for you. You might have to ask around but i live in a town of about 30K and we have one
 

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posting several pictures of the driveshaft and the clearance issue your having installing that drive shaft in the car would be very helpful
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Sorry about that. I figured as out of whack as this is, it would be a "known" issue type of scenario converting to the 200R4..
This is about the only good pic I have right now. Because as of right now, I have everything tore back apart.
103321

If you look at the bottom center of the cross member, you will see the hole for the transmission tail bolts. The tail shaft of the trans lines up almost perfectly with the rear most edge of that box/hole. You can also see faintly, the ring stain on the yolk. That's pretty much where it will rest once inserted. I put the trans jack back under there, removed the cross member, and lower the trans down. But the motor mounts maxed out the angle and I was still a good inch plus of excess yolk length to even allow touching the hole. There is no room in the back to feed extra drive shaft back into, before pulling it back up inside. From what I have researched, the original had straps on both end, so you could stab the yolk, push it all the way in, and that 3/4" of slide gave you just enough to get the shaft into place.
I'm pretty sure I'm ripping the diff out, then reinstalling it. I think that will be less overall work than pulling the trans again, as well as not knowing what kind of finagle it's going to be to get the angles right reinstalling the trans.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ha! I was LITERALLY just looking at that exact yoke, at the same site. Thanks Grumpy. I was wondering if that would be the right way to go or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, got that ordered and another ujoint, cause that brand new one is a 1330. Guess I will put it aside for replacement down the road. Thanks Grumpy. Hopefully that will fit the bill.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I did not, and in hindsight, probably should have verified for good measure.
But what I do know is that the driveshaft is off of a TH350 set up. Verified that it is a 27 spline model. I verified that both the 200R4 and TH350 trans use the same size yokes.
I know from when I put this one together that it needed a 1330 series ujoint. (equal length/size ujoint legs and caps)
But this requires the 1310, as the yoke side has the locking tabs.
Fingers crossed.
 

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conversion u-joints are readily available and not expensive
 

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All you need is your original driveshaft from the TH400, the new yoke and a conversion u-joint. 400 and 350 both used the same length driveshaft. If you can locate an original yoke from a 79 with TH350, it will use a 1330 series joint.
 

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