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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone!

I just purchased the Edelbrock 2095 power package for BBC (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-2095/) and its quoted to make 540 HP and lb/ft of torque. Obviously I wont get that out of the engine without some serious tuning and ideal conditions. I have also purchased an 850 cfm speed demon with mechanical secondaries (I have a manual 4-speed).

What I am wondering is if the rest of the car can handle that and still keep it together? Any suggestions on required frame/suspension/steering/brake upgrades to match the new found power?

Thanks in advance!
Zach
 

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Yeah that's a lofty power goal. Achievable but power comes with disadvantages.

Honestly though, with street tires, you're safer than with sticky rubbers. Your traction will luckily break before your transmission, rear end, and shafts.

Just make sure your suspension is in good shape, keep your braking system healthy, and that will be a very fun combination to play with.
 

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Thats good to hear, thanks for the quick response.

Now if I wanted to throw some slicks on and go drag racing, any suggestions there?
 

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Thats good to hear, thanks for the quick response.

Now if I wanted to throw some slicks on and go drag racing, any suggestions there?

If you're really gunning for 500+ and want to wear slicks...

...you know everything the engine is connected to? Replace all of it with bigger, better, and stronger components.
 

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I have a 427 with a very similar set-up. Same intake and cylinder heads (except with 2.25" intakes). I can't tell what cam you have with that package. The best I can figure, my engine is about 510HP/515 ft-lbs at the flywheel. I don't pop the clutch and am relatively easy off the line, but by 1500 I'll floor it. Stock driveshaft, 2.5" diameter half-shafts and stock rear end. No problems. I run Radial T/A's which aren't sticky at all, but my driving style is such that I almost never spin the tires on launch. That's just rolling out above bogging the engine. I think I probably have more compression and more cam than you do, but your engine's stroke is longer and I suspect the cam is more of a torque cam than mine.

To me, it's all about driving style. If you launch aggressively, you can break anything.

Give me the cam spec's and your compression and some other details (type of exhaust) and I'll run a Desktop Dyno program and that will give you a rough idea where you'll be powerwise.

I have the same intake manifold and it won't fit under a stock 69 BB hood. Do you have enough hood clearance for the intake?
 

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I think a 12 bolt might be overkill for this power level, depending on what the OP really wants to do at the strip or with an even more modified engine in the future.

Gary is going to be building a Super 10 Bolt for me in the next few weeks. With a 600 or so HP engine, I know the stock set-up won't hold up.
 

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I think a 12 bolt might be overkill for this power level, depending on what the OP really wants to do at the strip or with an even more modified engine in the future.

Gary is going to be building a Super 10 Bolt for me in the next few weeks. With a 600 or so HP engine, I know the stock set-up won't hold up.

:agree: Super 10 is perfect for most high performance applications.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Give me the cam spec's and your compression and some other details (type of exhaust) and I'll run a Desktop Dyno program and that will give you a rough idea where you'll be powerwise.

I have the same intake manifold and it won't fit under a stock 69 BB hood. Do you have enough hood clearance for the intake?
The cam specs can be found here: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7162/

Im not sure what the compression would be, but I am getting the kit on Monday and by next weekend I will start installing it with my friends. As for the exhaust, its just a straight dual with two turbo cherry bombs (Not glasspacks).

I have an L-88 hood scoop that I am going to bring to a local body shop once I know how much clearance I will need. Wort case scenario I will just cut hole and put on a hilborn scoop.
 

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If you wanna put 500 to the ground in any car with slicks you're gonna need a healthy dose of suspension rebuild and tuning/modification.

Off the top of my head, don't trust any driveshaft built by GM at that hook level. Same with engine & transmission mounts. It's probably gonna take drag springs and shocks to get the weight transfer necessary. Stock rear alignment won't be helping things any. Stock wheel studs are a recipe for disaster. Rubber bushings in the rear suspension may allow spooky things to happen with alignment change under power. Even if your original axle shafts are in good shape, the ends are not made beefy enough to do what you want to do.

Basically if anything is even 2% sketchy in the transmission or differential the car will spit them out in tiny pieces. Forget original type posi units, plan for an aftermarket piece regardless of what housing is used.

However, going fast is TOTALLY worth it. Do you have a scattershield? 500 needs one.

Keep street tires on it you avoid half that expense, but when 500 finds a weak spot, spectacular failures will result.

good luck with the car
 

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The cam specs can be found here: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7162/

Im not sure what the compression would be, but I am getting the kit on Monday and by next weekend I will start installing it with my friends. As for the exhaust, its just a straight dual with two turbo cherry bombs (Not glasspacks).

I have an L-88 hood scoop that I am going to bring to a local body shop once I know how much clearance I will need. Wort case scenario I will just cut hole and put on a hilborn scoop.
Thorvette,

You haven't written a lot in this post and it's hard to know how much you may know about engines from what you've written so far. You may have this upcoming engine mod well in hand and all thought out, so excuse me if what I write below is old news to you.

I have spent some time looking at your combo. The stock 73 LS4 454 is a 8.25:1 compression ratio (CR) engine. The heads have 113.06 cc combustion chambers. If you ratio up the CR by the combustion chamber volume change with the new heads, your compression ratio will be 8.48:1. This is not conducive to good performance with a large high rpm cam, which is what is in the new kit.

The factory 427ci/390HP engine used a cam that was 268/274 degrees advertized duration and that was with a 10.25:1 CR. Your new cam is 300/306 advertised duration with only 8.5. You can see that there is quite a difference there. Generally, the larger the cam, the more compression you need.

The combination you are looking at is going to give you about 395HP at 5500rpm.

The compression ratio is very important in relation to picking the right cam. The cam in this kit is too big in my opinion for the compression you have. I'm assuming that you are starting with the factory 8.25 CR pistons. I'll save myself a lot of time and typing if this assumption is wrong. What is your compression now?

Are you using the factory cast iron exhaust manifolds?

I have a factory-height L88 hood with the factory drop base air cleaner assembly for the 71 LS6 engine and the Edelbrook oval-port RPM Air-Gap dual plane manifold. Same manifold as your new one. There is 0.20" clearance above the highest point on the air cleaner lid. I measured this with clay and a vernier. I have poly-urethane engine and tranny mounts, so there is almost no engine roll-over at WOT.
 

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Thorvette,

I hope you read my above post and are looking into the situation. The Edelbrock site even says you should have a 9.5:1 CR for the Performer RPM power package. Also from their site, the cylinder heads "can support" over 540HP. That doesn't mean you'll have it with your combination.

Just trying to keep you from using too big of a cam and then wondering why the engine doesn't do what you want it to.

If you've got plenty of compression, then you're fine..... but you might let us know.
 

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A lot of great advise from these experienced guys above!
But for starters, my thoughts never left the engine block. Is the engine lower end rebuilt? Or were you thinking of bolting on that package onto a 40 yr old untouched unit?
Just my .02
:cheers:
 

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Also on the CAM it has over .500 lift and I am not sure on the BB but the 350 stock bottom end can NOT go over .500 lift or your valve will hit the piston. You may want to confirm this before you crank her up....
 
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